The Virtues of Virtue Feed & Grain and Buzz Bakery

Virtue Feed & Grain interior

The new Virtue Feed & Grain in Old Town Alexandria is an interesting place.  The decor is killer.  The chef’s credentials are impeccable.  The drinks are unique.  The food is a little better than okay.

I have to put a caveat on this.  I was with six people.  Three of us had the same entree. We did not order from “the weird stuff” section of the menu, which may be where the more adventurous food lies.  We stuck with some pretty basic things on this pub food menu.  But I expect elevated pub food from restaurateurs Meshelle and Cathal Armstrong, along with partner/mixologist Todd Thrasher, who brought us Restaurant Eve and The Majestic.

Let’s start with the decor.  It’s worth a visit.  Earthy, rustic, warm, and playful.   The building used to be a feed house- hence the name. There is exposed brick and large open windows that peer onto the street below.  There is a room with a pool table, video games, and darts. According to the website “the floors, walls, hand-crafted tabletops, and bar shelves are all constructed with period wood, each heralding from a unique past.”

If you can get past the noise, which may be a big if, Virtue Feed & Grain could be a nice place to relax especially if you are lucky enough to be seated on the big comfy couches or the bench swings. We had a nice big table in a corner with a lovely view of South Union Street.

My first decision at Virtue is probably the most difficult.  What to drink?  Our server is describing everything with such a fondness that I feel like whatever I order will insult the other drinks.  My friends, who arrive early, have already had a turn at the bar and the pool table.  They tried the mojito and said it was simply “bad.”  “Even the bartender agreed, ” they say.  Strike that.  The server is surprised.  I am too, as Todd Thrasher has a stellar reputation for his creations.  Must be some deviation by the surly (according to my friends) bartender.  I go with the green apple martini.  My friend orders one of the hoptails (beer cocktails), which had I been a beer lover (or even liker) I would certainly have tried.  I like the fresh, tart, green apple martini.  It hits the spot.  My friend likes his hoptail but is dismayed by the small size.  On his second round he opts for a bottle of beer instead.

On to the food.  We begin with the “Morsels and Tidbits” side of the menu.  Buffalo wings are nicely crisped and have an appropriate amount of heat.  But I am hoping for something to distinguish them from buffalo wings I’ve had everywhere and anywhere else, and this doesn’t happen.

Virtue Feed & Grain chicken wings

We also have stuffed potato skins and garlic mushrooms. The garlic mushrooms could use a little more crisp. The potatoes are just potatoes…perfectly ordinary. The quality of the food is starting to feel completely incongruous with the setting.

On to the “Vittles & Fare” section of the menu.Three of us order scallops with risotto.  Points for the scallops being cooked perfectly, as is the risotto. The risotto is a touch too salty which may be due to some teensy flecks of bacon in it.  The scallops are …for lack of a better word…fine.  The virtues of the dish are somewhat lacking.

Virtue Feed & Grain scallops and risotto

One friend has Farm House chicken and chips, which he enjoys.  The chicken is moist and tender.  The kitchen is getting things right in preparation. It is the seasoning that is lackluster.

Two diners in our party are much happier with their food.  My husband has rockfish with colcannon (mashed potatoes and kale), an Irish-inspired evening special.  He loves the flavor of the fish, the sauce, and the accompanying colcannon.   (I wish I had taken a bite, as it looks really good in his photo!)

Virtue Feed & Grain rockfish

Another friend is enthusiastic about his haddock chowder, which he has seen someone eating at the bar.  It has a delicious smoky flavor. I know if I was a mussel-eater, I would have adored this dish.  (No beer. No mussels for me.  I may need to give these things another try some day).

Virtue Feed & Grain haddock chowder

Our check arrives in a mini burlap feedbag, which I must say I find adorable.

One curious thing about the menu selections is how heavy they are.  I cannot warm up to the thought of macaroni and cheese or chicken pot pie on a hot summer night.  I would be happy to try them in January, however.  I am left feeling like I need another visit here before attaching a final rating.  I believe there are undiscovered virtues in the food that I am not able to explore on this visit.  I really, really want to like the food at Virtue Feed & Grain every bit as much as I like the feel of the place.

I realize with some delight that since we are in Alexandria, it is not out of the way to swing by Buzz Bakery.  
I am already quite familiar with the virtues of the bakery that produces some of my very favorite cupcakes.  I will not think about the fact that I was in the Clarendon location the previous evening  after dining at Willow Restaurant. I absolutely should not eat another cupcake.  But of course this does not stop me. In two visits I am able to sample the blueberry “pie” cupcake, peachy keen cupcake, and the berry lovely cupcake.  I am unable to identify a favorite.  They are each perfect in their own way- moist cake, not too sweet frosting, and fresh fruit in the middle.  I wish there was a Buzz Bakery in Montgomery County or even in DC, but perhaps it is best for me that there is not.

It is important to note that Virtue Feed and Grain, of the EatGoodFood Group and Buzz Bakery, of the Neighborhood Restaurant Group (Birch & Barley, Rustico, Vermilion, among others) are two powerhouse restaurant groups that are making a significant impact on the quality of dining in the DC area. Their establishments are my kind of virtual reality.

Virtue Feed & Grain, 106 South Union Street, Alexandria, Va.

Buzz Bakery  
Buzz Bakery | Alexandria, 901 Slaters Lane

Buzz Bakery | Ballston, 818 N. Quincy Street

Virtue Feed & Grain on Urbanspoon

Buzz Bakery, Coffee, and Dessert Lounge on Urbanspoon

NYC: Food and the City 2,featuring ABC Kitchen and Chelsea Market

At the end of “Food and the City” part one (which is the first installment of this blog post), there were fifteen women on a food tour of the Lower East Side.  The sequel begins with the women heading to “Book of Mormon” on Broadway.  This is a show that the characters of “Sex in the City” would adore.  In fact, if this  musical was running at the same time as the SATC series, it could easily have been weaved into an episode.  It’s outrageous and wonderful! The show ends and more than half of the group heads back to DC.  The remaining six women head to ABC Kitchen for dinner.

ABC Kitchen courtesy of www.sipchatchow.com

ABC Kitchen, located in the ABC Carpet and Home Store has won many accolades, including the 2011 James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant, NYC.  Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten is famed for his many restaurants in New York and elsewhere including Spice Market, Mercer Kitchen, Perry Street, as well as J&G Steakhouse here in DC.  ABC Kitchen is at the top of my NYC to do list and I am thrilled when I am able to snag a reservation.  It helps that we are early diners.

The decor in ABC Kitchen is, as I expected, taken right from the store.  If you haven’t been there it is a wondrous place filled with exquisite furniture and accessories that feature sustainable materials, many of which are handcrafted.  You can spend hours in there, and I have. It’s all very country-home style. It makes me wish I had a country home to decorate.

Everything in ABC Kitchen utilizes “consciously sourced materials” including the tables, chairs, tablecloths, menus, etc. etc.  Similarly the food is seasonal, organic, and locally sourced “whenever possible.”

We begin by sharing selections from the market table and appetizer sections of the menu.  This includes roasted beets with housemade yogurt, sugar snap pea salad with parmesan dressing, butter lettuce with pistachios and radishes, and a bean dish.

I know that I should be using my words to describe the unique and wonderful tastes of these dishes.  But all that comes to mind initially is “omg!”  Each dish is so fresh that it tastes like the farm is right outside the door (as opposed to a ten story carpet and home store).  The beet dish, in particular, makes others I have adored before pale in comparison. The yogurt is creamy and  piquant–a perfect accompaniment to the beets.  The butter lettuce salad is cool and sophisticated, with spicy coated pistachios and radishes that provide an added bite. We savor every bite of the bean dish which is sprinkled with cherry tomatoes, fresh herbs, and edamame.

roasted beets with housemade yogurt

Three of us share a cherry pizza with bacon on a wholewheat crust.  It is served to us lukewarm.  My friend asks for a reheat. The server leaves the quickly cooling pizza and promises to bring us a hot one as well. The hot version is infinitely better. The cherry flavor is subtle. I actually would have preferred it to be more pronounced. Still, this is a unique pizza.  Two friends share a pizza with mozzarella cheese and basil, which they deem “nothing special.”  Another friend has a black sea bass with chilies and herbs, baby market potatoes and spinach, which is terrific.  We eat the sauce with a spoon when the fish is gone.

cherry pizza
black sea bass

I share an order of spaghettini with shrimp, crushed tomatoes and chili crumbs, which is split before serving.  The half size portion is plenty.  I can’t put this down.  Perfectly cooked shrimp, fresh tomatoes, and just the right amount of heat. I am loving life!

spaghettini with shrimp

After our dinner I text a friend:  amazing food at ABC Kitchen.  When she asks what we’ve eaten I reply: veggie starters, pasta, pizza, salad.  I realize immediately that this has given the wrong impression of our meal.  I add: lots of intense flavors.

The food at ABC Kitchen may be simple at first glance yet it is incredibly sophisticated in the end.  It is love at first sight for me when I see the menu, and I am elated at the execution. This is worth a visit again next year with the entire group.  Hopefully time for some shopping as well!

We head off to another night of theater but not before we make a quick stop at Magnolia Bakery, which gained popularity after being featured on an episode of “Sex in the City.” This is before the cupcake craze took hold of the nation.  It shows.  The cupcakes look ordinary, so I opt for a blondie.  Let’s just say it satisfies my craving for sweets, but nothing more.

The next morning it is 100 degrees.  We head to Chelsea Market.  I immediately spot a sign that gets my heart beating very quickly.

The Food Network offices are in the same building as Chelsea Market.  Could “Iron Chef America” be filming at this very moment? I follow the signs to the other end of the building.  There is a check-in table but no one is there.  I return later with my friends and we ask the security guard if we can possibly get in. They are filming an episode with Marc Forgione and someone from Vegas (???)  He directs us to an elevator leading to the Food Network offices.  I am holding my breath.  Will I run into Giada or Bobby Flay or Alton Brown (he’s probably downstairs in Kitchen Stadium. )  There is a security guard there as well, and I ask him if it’s possible to get in to see the taping.  He says no.  “Even if I am a very famous food blogger from Washington, DC?” I plead, obviously exaggerating greatly. He smiles. “No.”  Oh well, I tried.  It would have made for a great blog, I’m sure.

I am not so very disappointed because I spend the next couple of hours dashing through Chelsea Market sampling the most amazing things. (Although I do keep my eyes open for recognizable faces.) Here’s what I ate.

Sarabeth’s Bakery,  chocolate cupcake with meringue topping – rich and delicious

People’s Pops,  (fresh, local fruit ice pops) plum ginger – amazing flavor, ridiculously good!

Lucy’s Whey, gruyere and strawberry jam sandwich. This could go on my “Best Things I Ever Ate” list.  crunchy bread, creamy cheese, sweet jam- all perfectly in synch

Lucy’s Whey from hamptonscurbed.com

I also take home espresso and honey ginger balsamic vinegars from The Filling Station,
which are doing wonderful things to the cucumbers from my garden.

At this point it’s getting too steamy, and it is time to head home.  Three days of gorging myself in Manhattan has left me exhausted.  The girls and I will be back for more next year. In the meantime, there’s still plenty of DC to be conquered.

ABC Kitchen, 35 E 18th St, NY, NY
My rating (on a 1-5 scale): 4.7 
ABC Kitchen, New York Magazine review

ABC Kitchen on Urbanspoon

NYC: Food and the City, featuring Telepan and more

Telepan photo from www.zagat.com

At face value there are not too many similarities between the girls of Sex and the City and a group of fifteen 50+year olds on an annual trip to Manhattan.  But somehow this is exactly what comes to mind as I try to capture the essence of my recent trip.  Except for one thing.  Food is our substitute for sex.

I am the Samantha of the group, as the person with the most voracious appetite.  I take pleasure in enticing my friends over to the dark side to eat one more cookie or cupcake. Although I must admit that on this particular trip I was too tired to walk a few blocks out of the way for outrageous cookies from Levain Bakery on the Upper West Side. Thank goodness I have friends who are more energetic than I am.  These are some dense, rich, Oprah-approved cookies.  The dark chocolate is my favorite.

photo from www.levainbakery.com

We begin our day with a trip to the Metropolitan Museum of Art for the Alexander McQueen exhibit.  The SATC girls would be right at home here, particularly Carrie.  In fact, Sarah Jessica Parker often wears Alexander McQueen for special occasions, including the SATC movie openings one (on the left) and two (on the right).

We have theater tickets at 7:00 pm, which dictates a 5:00 pm dinner.  I know that the girls from SATC would never eat dinner at 5:00 pm.  I didn’t say this is a perfect metaphor, although I guess we can call this an afternoon delight.

I choose Telepan based on Zagat reviews (26, which is high) and location (near the Met and theater district).  As I often do, I second guess my decision.  But then I see Telepan is participating in Restaurant Week, which coincides with our visit.  You can’t beat a three-course meal for $35 at a fairly high-end restaurant in New York.

Our group splits into three tables of five, which is perfectly fine.  The hostess give us attitude when we ask if we can be seated close together.  Miranda would have given her attitude right back, but I’m not so bold. Our waiter arrives and in a very serious way tells us the rules.  Everyone at the table must order off the restaurant week menu or no one can.  We all have to order from the same panel on the menu: starters, middles, mains, or dessert).  One person can’t order dessert and another decide on a mid-course.  This seems complicated and unnecessary.  It may have gone over better if our server had any sort of sense of humor about him, but he doesn’t.  He repeats the rules more than once.

Telepan, as described on the website:

Bill Telepan’s cuisine draws its inspiration from the freshest ingredients, simply and skillfully prepared. “It’s about allowing the natural flavors to emerge from the ingredients,” says Telepan. Telepan buys locally and cooks seasonally—creating honest, robust dishes that have been hailed by Gael Greene as “bravura food” in New York Magazine.

I’m finding the whole promotion of fresh ingredients thing a yawn lately, but the description on the website is accurate.

We begin with a wonderful bread basket.  The standout tastes of anise.  My starter is pickled & mixed beets, with bulgar and buttermilk dressing.  It’s tart and tasty.  Others in the group rave about the sunny side egg, with fried green tomato, cheddar and spring onion. 

Telepan beets

My middle course is peekytoe crab linguini with scallion, garlic, and green chili. I have to be honest.  I like this dish as well as my main course of  wild striped bass with olive oil potato gratin, zucchini, green tomato and lemon thyme.  But I was so focused on whether my friends were enjoying their food, that I didn’t pay attention enough to provide accurate descriptions. There’s pressure in satisfying fifteen women at the same time!

Telepan linguini
Telepan bass

I get a text from a friend at another table during the starters:  “So far..GREAT!!!”  This is all the affirmation I need.

When it’s time to pay the bill we whip out five credit cards at our table.  The waiter again informs us of the rules.  We have to designate the tip separately rather than putting a total on the five cards and have them figure it out.  I’ve been to a lot of restaurants during Restaurant Week and I’ve never encountered so many rules.  It’s not just our server.  The other two tables have different wait staff with the same attitude and regulations.

As we leave everyone is raving about the food and atmosphere.  I’m a little less enthusiastic, due to the attitude if the staff.  I think they would do well to lighten up a bit.  Maybe we’re just a little more laid back in DC.

The next morning we are scheduled for a heritage tour on the Lower East Sideorganized by Levy’s Unique New York. The friend who has organized the tour asks Levy’s to include food stops stating:  we are 16 women who expect/need/cannot live without food.”  We all agree that our tour guide, Jonathan, is cute. (Does this make us cougars?)  In rapid succession our conquests are:
 
Yonah Schimmels, 137 East Houston Street (good potato knishes)

Vanessa’s Dumpling House, 118A Eldridge Street (sesame pancakes and vegetable dumplings that are well worth a visit)
The Pickle Guys, 49 Essex Street (the pickled pineapple is unbelievable!  it’s got a nice kick.)
The Pickle Guys pickled pineapple
Kossar’s Bialys, 367 Grand Street (good but would be better toasted). I am deeply distressed to see now that Donut Plant is right next door to Kossar’s.  I have been dying to try this place!

We finish our tour somewhat more knowledgeable about the history of the neighborhoods in this ethnically-changing part of town.  More importantly, we are completely sated when it comes to our appetites.

Stay tuned for a sequel to “Food and the City” featuring ABC Kitchen, Magnolia Bakery, and Chelsea Market. The food was terrific, which is more than I can say for the disappointing “Sex and the City 2.”

Telepan, 72 West 69 Street,  New York, NY 
My rating (on a 1-5 scale): 3.8
Telepan, New York Times review

Telepan on Urbanspoon

Found: Peter Chang China Grill in Charlottesville

At first I can’t remember exactly where I heard about Peter Chang China Grill.  I discover the name on my own restaurant to do list and the word “Charlottesville” appears next to it.  Since we drive through
Charlottesville periodically on our way to and from from my husband’s hometown of Lynchburg, Va, I must have jotted it down when it came up in some forum or food chat.  (Upon returning home I find it described beautifully in Todd Kliman’s March 29, 2011 online chat.)

I happen to peruse my to do list shortly before a trip to Lynchburg, and the Charlottesville restaurant catches my eye. I conduct some online research to jog my memory.  What I find is fascinating.  Chef Peter Chang has been written about quite a bit. He is a highly-regarded and sought-after chef (which is actually an understatement) who moves around frequently and often without much notice. He is described as “elusive” and “enigmatic.”  In an article from the Oxford American, entitled “Todd Kliman Chases the Perfect Chef” the Washingtonian critic makes my pursuit of Top Cheftestants seem like child’s play.

My online research is a bit confusing.  I can’t really tell how connected the chef is to the restaurant that bears his name.  I finally decide it’s not worth puzzling over.  But then as we are nearing Charlottesville, something is nagging at me. I pick up my Droid and frantically begin to search Google for Peter Chang China Grill. I find this from www.NBC29.com dated May 24, 2011:

“World-renowned Chef Peter Chang’s new Charlottesville restaurant is gaining recognition in the Big Apple.
New York Magazine lists the Barracks Road eatery as the restaurant in Virginia worth trekking to to taste this summer. The editors of Grub Street picked one spot per state. The magazine says Peter Chang’s China Grill will give you “deep foodie bragging rights”, especially if the elusive chef picks up and moves on quickly.
Chang has disappeared and left restaurants, inspiring a group of fans to follow his movement in Internet discussion boards, such as DonRockwell.com and Chowhound.”

Say no more. We are so going to this restaurant.

We arrive early afternoon on a Sunday and the place is fairly empty, which I find surprising given all that I’ve seen online. Perhaps it is just Charlottesville in the summer.  I ask our server for an update on Chef Chang, his involvement in the restaurant, and for some recommendations on what to order. He is eager to share his knowledge.

He tells us that Chef Chang comes and goes between this Charlottesville restaurant and another in Atlanta, traveling back and forth by bus.  Chang is devoted to training his chefs to execute his dishes. The server assures us we are going to have a fantastic meal, although admits that the food definitely “takes a step up when Peter Chang is here.” He tells us that Chang was last in the house two weeks ago when he came back to cook for actor Robert Duvall. I’m sorry we missed that! We go with our server’s recommendations and sit back ready to enjoy the ride.

We begin with dry-fried eggplant and crispy cucumber- which we are told is not on the menu – but will go well with the spice of the eggplant.  The eggplant is lightly fried and covered with szechuan peppercorns.  The server says the spice is called hua chow or otherwise referred to as “watch out”.  The dish has a slow burn. A bite taken with a piece of fresh cilantro is a perfect bite.  Next a bite of crisp, salty, cold cucumber which nicely balances the heat. The flavor of the eggplant is so unique and the texture so exquisite that my husband and I have to work hard to stop ourselves from eating more.  It is a struggle.  But we have two more dishes to go.

eat
dry-fried eggplant
crispy cucumber

Next we have Ma Po Tofu. I have decided in deference to my husband’s kosher observance that I am going to stick with vegetables and fish for this meal.  There are certainly enough appealing choices that I don’t feel like it is at all a sacrifice.

The Ma Po Tofu is asoupy dish with an abundance of smooth and silky tofu and chili paste.  The sauce is pungent and searingly hot. Rice is a necessity to sop up the sauce.  This must be consumed with water and lots of it.  We smile through our sweat and tears.

Ma Po tofu

Our final dish is a house special fish.  It is stir fry flounder with vegetables and cilantro.  The flavors are more complex than the tofu dish, but it is a little difficult to taste them after the spice of the tofu.  This dish has some heat as well, but in comparison it is more subtle.  We have plenty to take home and I look forward to tasting it again with a fresh palate.

house special fish

We have way too much food, particularly for lunch, but we’re here and there is no harm in leftovers. I would have ordered more – and probably should have!  I know that there is so much more to be discovered.

I am so glad that I persisted in finding Peter Chang China Grill.  This is Chinese food that is something special, and I venture to say cannot be found in the DC area.  I would have preferred to find Peter Chang himself, but clearly I am not the only one who finds this is a difficult pursuit.

Peter Chang China Grill, 2162 Barracks Rd, Charlottesville, VA
My rating (on a 1-5 scale): 4.5

Peter Chang's China Grill on Urbanspoon

Lynchburg, VA: Branching out at Bull Branch

My husband is from Lynchburg, Virginia, which is hardly the culinary capital of the world.  Our visits here usually include dinner at a local Chinese restaurant, which is mediocre at best.  But on a recent visit we decided to take some advice from Pamela Redmond Satran in her 2009 Washington Post article about “Fine, Funky Lynchburg, Va.”  I had really not experienced this side of the town, so I was more than willing to check out some of the places described.  I’m particularly looking forward to a restaurant she raves about.

The writer calls Bull Branch one of her “favorite restaurants on earth.”  She goes on to say “Like Lynchburg itself, it’s that perfect blend of casual and sophisticated, elegant and honky-tonk.” Say no more.  I decide this is the perfect place to go with my husband and my 80 year old mother-in-law.

At first glance I am somewhat horrified.  The floors are grungy, the ceiling paint is peeling, the chairs don’t match, and the menus are a little worn.  It’s also loud, which is not ideal for my hard-of-hearing mother-in-law.  I’m wondering if someone at The Washington Post owed this writer a favor.  But then I start getting used to the decor.  My mother-in-law on the other hand can’t stop describing the room as ungapatchka, which according to www.urbandictionary.com is “a Yiddish word that describes the overly ornate, busy, ridiculously over-decorated, and garnished to the point of distaste.”

Bull Branch interior

But then the food starts to arrive.  And it’s really not bad.  In fact, it’s pretty good.  I have lamb and fig kabobs with couscous.  The lamb is a tad overcooked for my taste, but it is a nice combination of sweet and spice.

lamb kabob at Bull Branch

My husband has a North African fish tagine which features green olives, currants, and a tomato broth with red pepper.  He describes it as flavorful and tangy.

fish tagine at Bull Branch

My mother-in-law is not so fond of her salmon, which she finds somewhat bland, but she is quite enthusiastic about the accompanying sweet potatoes.

salmon at Bull Branch

My husband and I end up liking our meal, although service is a little slow and while eclectic, the atmosphere is a little too run down to be cool.  But it’s nice to branch out on a visit to his home town.   My mother-in-law…she’s not quite feeling it.   I have a funny feeling that next time we’re here, we’ll be back to that reliable Chinese restaurant.

Bull Branch, 109 11th Street, Lynchburg, Va.
My rating (on a 1-5 scale):  3.4

Bull Branch on Urbanspoon

Fan-tastic food at Graffiato

I have been an unabashed fan of Top Chef since season one, day one.  I have steadfastly pursued opportunities to eat Top Cheftestants’ food whenever possible, because I believe that it is one thing to be a fan of a TV personality and another to be a fan of a chef’s cooking. I strive for the latter. But in the interest of full disclosure, I have also relentlessly pursued interactions with the Top Cheftestants simply because it gives me a thrill. (see my blog post on Spiaggia in Chicago for an example).

It is no secret to people who know me (or read my blog) that I am an avid fan of Bryan Voltaggio (Top Chef Season Six) of Volt. I have dined at Volt on several occasions including a turn at Table 21 in May and in the main dining room in June. My only disappointment is not having any interaction with him at Table 21 and not seeing him at all on my subsequent visit.  The food, in my opinion, is beyond reproach.

Similarly, I have proudly declared my affection for Mike Isabella (Top Chef Season Six, Top Chef All-Stars).  I will confess that I was rooting for Bryan to win season six, certainly over Mike who was depicted somewhat as the villain and certainly as a  crass Jersey boy. But Mike’s image greatly improved in Top Chef All-Stars, and it was clear his cooking was soaring as well.

When Mike announced his plans to open Graffiato, I avidly followed his progress online. I made a reservation for a few weeks after the opening, thinking I would give the food and service a chance to mature.  But within days after Graffiato’s opening, stellar reviews began pouring in.  I couldn’t stand to wait. I decided to take my chances as a walk-in and headed to Graffiato with my husband barely a week after the opening.  I was anxious to go again with friends as planned a week and a half later.  And quite honestly, I would happily dine at Graffiato again next week.

Graffiato is an Italian-inspired restaurant with seasonal small plates.  What makes Graffiato so great? It’s homey.  It’s comfortable. It’s a neighborhood kind of place. It’s got a happening vibe. The service is attentive. (although I wish they wouldn’t keep trying to take our plates when there is a bite left.  We want that bite!) Oh, and the food is terrific!

When we arrive for our second visit, my difficult decision is whether to order some of the dishes I had the first time around (hello, chicken thighs with the famous pepperoni sauce that made “Top Chef” judge Gail Simmons positively ecstatic.)    This is a fabulous dish.  The skin is crispy and the sauce is bursting with flavor. I love it, but I decide to move on to some new things this time around.

We start with an order of bread, which is an extra charge, but worth it for the accompaniments alone- fresh ricotta and an olive oil gelee.  The raisin-nut bread is my favorite and I don’t even like nuts.  Sometimes it’s worth making an exception.

The hand stretched mozarella cheese is next. It’s fresh, it’s simple, and it’s darn good.

One of our favorite dishes is the roasted baby carrots.  The dish comes with lardo, but we ask for it without it as I am the only lardo eater at the table.  The server assures us it’s not essential to the dish.  He is right.  This is one beautiful plate with carrots and slightly crunchy farro and dates adding a sweetness.

The honey glazed cippolini is another winner.  We also get an added bonus of spiced pistachios, which I don’t recall receiving on our first visit.We rave about these as well.

The only vegetable dish that we find less than perfect is the wood roasted mushrooms, which all four of us find a little too vinegary.

There are two dishes from our first visit that we can’t help but order again.  The sweet corn agnolotti with chanterelles and pine nuts is not to be missed. It’s hard to explain how much flavor there is in each and every bite.  This is a dish to be savored and I almost feel sad when its gone. The good news is that I still have the Countryman pizza to conquer.

I wanted to try a different pizza this time, but my husband is intent on eating the pizza with black truffles, fontina, and duck egg one more time.  I am picky about my pizza.  I like a thin, charred crust.  Soggy crust is not okay with me.  Graffiato’s pizza is a shining star here.  I hope to wrest my husband away from the Countryman next time though, as I have to dodge the pieces with the runny egg.    Why is it that Graffiato keeps getting me to eat things I don’t normally like? And I end up liking them!

The only real misstep is that our server forgets to bring the tuna crudo.  By the time we realize it, we’re ready for dessert.

We end with three desserts, because we are trying our best to conquer as much of this menu as possible.  First are the zeppoles, which is the “secret” dessert not on the menu.  When I ask for them the server remarks that I “must be an insider.”  Anyone who reads blogs or reviews should know that these warm dough balls with strawberry powdered sugar are another must have to your visit. Don’t think about the calories. It’s too late at this point.

Do not skip the nutella cookies with sea salt!  I read that Mike’s wife Stacy makes them.  They are heavenly.  Sorry, we devoured them before taking a photo. We also have a chocolate torte with bittersweet chocolate.  I am not a fan but the others like it very much.  I’m too busy with the zeppoles and cookies to care.

We finish our meal and are reveling in the after-glow.  Mike is making his way through the room, stopping at various tables to chat.  I know I won’t be completely satisfied if I don’t say hello.  I’ve met Mike a few times now, including on our last visit to Graffiato.  But it doesn’t really seem to register with him.  My friend encourages me to wave him over.  I do, and Mike tells me I look familiar, which is nice.  We start to chat and that’s when I see Bryan Voltaggio heading towards us, looking more relaxed and smiley than I have ever seen him on television or in his restaurant.  Can this really be happening?  I can’t help myself, so I tell Bryan that I won a City Paper contest for my review of Volt.  “Was it a good review?” he asks.  “Great,” I reply.  “Except you didn’t say hello,” I continue. “Oh, I read that,” he says smiling.

I can’t let this moment pass without a photo.  I’m with two of my very favorite Top Chefs. How happy am I?

It’s true… I am a Top Chef fan and always have been. But, Graffiato is so much more than a restaurant for Top Chef fans.  If you’re a fan of great food- and who isn’t- check it out. You’ll be back for more, I promise you.

Graffiato, 707 6th Street, NW
My rating (on a 1-5 scale):   4.8

Don’t trust a superfan?  Here are links to some other reviews.
 Todd Kliman of The Washingtonian declared the food “a knockout” in his early review. 
Lisa Shapiro of Dining in DC said “After just one dinner, I can confidently say that Graffiato has not only lived up to all the hype, but has exceeded my expectations.”
Josh Novikoff of DCist said:  “each bite is better than the last. The place is a real winner.”

Graffiato on Urbanspoon

 

The Proof is in the Pudding

Do I rule my blog or does my blog rule me?  Last weekend I absolutely had to order sticky toffee pudding at Proof because I realized I could then say “the Proof is in the pudding” in my headline. It was was a defining moment.  My blog is starting to dictate my menu choices. Of course my preferences have dominated restaurant choices for years among friends and family.  Most of them don’t care where we dine nearly as much as I do.  Which is how I got into this blog thing in the first place.

I recently chose to visit Proof for a Saturday night out with friends.  It’s on my list as #31 on Washingtonian’s 100 Very Best Restaurants 2011. This is my second visit to Proof, the first being a few years ago for a birthday dinner. My memories of the food are hazy, although I do recall enjoying the food and atmosphere. This time, of course, my experience will be recorded for posterity so I have to pay more attention.

The description of Proof on its website is as “a wine-centric restaurant serving Modern American cuisine…Proof showcases the best local, organic and sustainable ingredients in clean, beautiful, preparations, as well as an extensive international selection of cheese and charcuterie.”

We enter the dining room and recollections of its casual elegance return to me.  Exposed brick walls, leather banquettes, pendant lights.  There is an attention to detail that shows. The best part is that it is possible to carry on a conversation and hear each other. Radical!

I vacillate between wanting small wine tastes or sharing a bottle of wine.  The sommelier helps us – with very little direction other than white wine and not too flowery.  He brings us a Sancerre, Thomas Labaille, Les Monts Damnes 2009.  Admirably, it comes in under our specified price and it is perfectly suited to our various tastes.

We order two starters to share between three of us: tempura of local asparagus, french beans and wild mushrooms and a Mediterranean flatbread with chickpeas, red onions, olives, pickled radish, and smoked eggplant emulsion.  The tempura vegetables are somewhat soggy and the lemon truffle dipping sauce is unremarkable.  The flatbread has a pleasing texture, but again there is no wow on the dish.  It looks pretty and tastes ordinary.

 tempura vegetables
flatbread

My friend has pan roasted veal sweetbreads with pickled mushrooms, red grapes, bacon, spinach, amd poached egg.  He is on his own for this one. I am not interested in even a bite.  He likes the dish  but notes that it is over salted.

sweetbreads

For our main course, all four of us order fish.  Here is where things from the Proof kitchen start to look up.  Each dish is cooked to perfection.

I have Vadouvan spiced wild Alaskan halibut with fragrant jasmine rice, rainbow chard, and coconut curry emulsion.  It is the coconut curry emulsion that attracts me and I am not disappointed.  It is smooth and creamy with a nice amount of heat. The curry brings flavor but does now overpower the fish.

halibut

There are two orders for roasted Scottish Salmon with caramelized cauliflower, asparagus, mushrooms, potatoes, fennel cream.

salmon

There are a lot of “yums” heard around the table for this fish. It is nicely seared on the outside and pink on the inside.

The other fish dish is miso glazed wild Alaskan sablefish with mushrooms, baby bok choy and potato puree. This is a winner as well.

sablefish

Blog posts and reviews have featured Proof’s crispy cauliflower with lemon, tahini, and mint. It is supposed to be a standout dish. So even though we don’t really need more food, it is a must have.  This dish, like the tempura vegetables that precede it, is not crispy and the flavors are muddled.  I am disappointed.

We regretfully skip the cheese course we have been contemplating.

I am compelled to order the sticky toffee pudding and we throw in the warm chocolate hazelnut cake with coffee gelato and espresso sauce for good measure.  They are both good enough to qualify as a sweet ending to an uneven meal.

sticky toffee pudding

I puzzle over my conclusion.  Its clearly been an uneven meal with starters that are average, fish dishes that shine, a mediocre side dish, and two lovely desserts. Pair that with a soothing atmosphere, a competent server, a wise sommelier, and prices that are in line with DC establishments of this caliber.  When all is said and done the Proof is in the pudding.  It doesn’t blow my socks off but it’s a satisfying, sweet, even cool place to dine.

Proof, 775 G Street, NW, Washington, DC
My rating (on a 1-5 scale):   3.7
Zagat rating:  24
#31, Washingtonian, 100 Best Restaurants 2011
Washingtonian review

Proof on Urbanspoon

Re-Source

I’ve been wanting to try the lounge at The Source by Wolfgang Puck for some time.  I dined at the upscale restaurant last summer, right before I started blogging.  But The Source catapulted to the top of my list again after winning Best Fine Dining restaurant at last week’s RAMMYS.  I am nothing if not shamelessly influenced by awards and praise from restaurant critics.  (The Source is #3 on Washingtonian’s 100 Very Best Restaurants 2011.)

Great food abounds in DC and resources about where to find it are plentiful.  I almost always refer to the professional critics before I dine somewhere, just to give myself a baseline.  Blogs and websites also offer opinions on nearly every venue in town. But in the end, when I’m writing a post about a restaurant, obviously I have to base it on my own experience- taking into account the thoughts expressed by my dining partners.

I go to The Source lounge with two friends for a weeknight dinner.  I arrive first, in time to conduct a serious review of our options.  They are sufficient, considering I am dining with two pescaterians, one who eats shellfish but no dairy, and one who doesn’t eat shellfish. I always peruse the menu online prior to visiting a restaurant and look for information about specific dishes, but you never can be certain about the reliability of online menus.  This time the internet is a reliable source.  (see how I worked that in there).

We begin with tempura green beans with a pickled ginger vinaigrette.  They are lightly fried and crispy and the sauce is sweet and tangy.  It’s a perfectly sized portion for three to share. These are very nicely done (particularly when I compare it to a similar dish I have at Proof a few days later which is not nearly as good).

Two of us share lobster and scallop spring rolls. The presentation is beautiful.  I like the crispy, salty outside and the sauce is once again sweet with a little tang. My friend doesn’t particularly like this dish. I am not blown away but I can’t find fault with it either.
Next we have spicy tuna tartare in a sesame miso roll.  I had this last year as an appetizer and really enjoyed it.  I appreciate that they give us the option to order three pieces.  My favorite thing about this dish is the rolls themselves which are crunchy and sweet.  This is a really nice contrast to the raw tuna.
My friends share yellowtail sashimi with pickled jalapeño and citrus ponzusashimi.  I am not a sashimi fan so I just have a taste.  I find it okay but this isn’t my thing. My friends like it but say it’s nothing special.
I think about trying one more dish but instead we opt for dessert- warm blueberry crumble with salted streusel and vanilla ice cream.  The ice cream is smooth and creamy.  The crumble tastes like a biscuit. I like my desserts with a little more sugar.
According to a description on Zagat, the Source has “a “lively happy hour when its downstairs lounge fills with hip DCers digging in to recognizable faves and Far Eastern izakaya (Japanese small plates) in an atmosphere akin to Vegas, LA or New York.”
My own summary presents a dilemma. I like the food.  I like it very much.  But something about the experience as a whole isn’t wowing me.  And, I want to be wowed  at such a top-rated venue.  My friends aren’t any more enthusiastic than I am, so it’s not just me.
If you’re looking for a fun and satisfying evening out with friends, I’m happy to recommend the lounge at the Source. But if you’re looking for a rave review, you’ll just have to try a different source.
The Source, 575 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
My rating (on a 1-5 scale):   3.6
The Source on Urbanspoon
Questions or comments?
Send an email to lorisue6@gmail.com