2011 August

Againn Tavern

August 28, 2011 By Lori Leave a Comment

Before my dinner at Againn Tavern in Rockville, I had already chosen the title of my blog post. “Not, Againn.” I decided that I wasn’t going to like it so that I could use this clever (although probably not original) title. About half way through the meal, I was thinking I would change it to “Once, Againn,” meaning that this was a decent one-time dining experience but I would probably not be back.
A few days have gone by. This doesn’t happen often, but I am now starting to like the meal better as I look back on it.
Pub food is not usually my thing. The menu at Againn Tavern is on the heavy side. Fish and chips, ribs, shepherd’s pie, steaks, etc. There are a couple of salads but nothing that sounds interesting besides a salmon salad that I’m just not in the mood for at that moment.
I’m having a tough time deciding. A manager comes over and tells us that the fish and chips will “knock our socks off.” That’s all I need to hear. I like having my socks knocked off. I order the fish and chips.
You know what? I liked it. The batter is crisp but not too heavy. The fish is moist and there is a light sauce tartar sauce on the bottom that’s very nice.
Service is a little uneven. Our server takes too long to bring us our bread. The manager offers to bring us some homemade pickles and then forgets about it. She never comes back to see about our socks after we finish our meal.
My friends and I walk out and we agree that on a 1-5 scale we would give it a solid three. We may not rush back, but it’s a definite possibility among the crowded but not so interesting dining selections on the Pike.
But subsequently one of my friends emails that she’s upping her score to a 3.5. I’m starting to think that it’s a decent dining option for a night at the symphony at Strathmore Hall.
I’m pretty sure that I will be dining Againn. And if I wait a few months, when there is a chill in the air, the menu will be somewhat more appealing than it was on a muggy night in August.

*Does anyone remember this TV series that ran from 1999 to 2002 starring Sela Ward and Bill Campbelll? It was about two divorced parents trying to make it work as a couple. Liked it a lot. Sorry, I digress.

Againn Tavern, 12256 Rockville Pike, Rockville
My rating (on a 1-5 scale): 3.5
Tom Sietsema First Bite Review

Filed Under: MD, MD Dining

The Food’s the Deal at 8407 Kitchen Bar

August 27, 2011 By Lori 1 Comment

My husband and I sit down for a mid-week dinner at 8407 Kitchen Bar in Silver Spring. We are waiting for friends to arrive and he eagerly picks up the menu and says “so what’s the deal? Restaurant Week? Groupon? Living Social? “ “No,” I say. “It’s just a regular dinner out. No discount.” There are a lot of deals out there lately, and we have been able to tick off restaurants on my to do list, and still benefit from some savings. I feel a twinge of guilt, thinking about the stack of restaurant deal coupons sitting in a folder in my car. It only lasts for a second though, as I have put off going to 8407 Kitchen Bar for too long. It is time.

I’ve had recommendations for 8407 from some reputable sources including Top Chef’s Carla Hall, who named the restaurant immediately when I asked her where she likes to dine. The Daily Dish owners Zena Polin and Jerry Pollinger also name 8407 when we talk about the best local restaurants. Then there are the accolades from my “foodie”/vegetarian son who has dined at 8407 on a few occasions.

So why the procrastination? It isn’t like me at all. Executive Chef Pedro Matamoros was the chef/owner of the now-defunct Nicaro in Silver Spring. While I was a supporter of the eclectic menu and the locally-sourced ingredients, I wasn’t a fan of the high prices. I just didn’t think the quality warranted the price tag. So I wasn’t all that excited when Matamoros opened 8407 Kitchen Bar.

But it comes to mind when I try to come up with a spot to go with some friends before summer winds down. And for once, I was relishing the thought of not trudging downtown on a weeknight.

The location on 8407 Ramsey Avenue is not ideal. There’s not much foot traffic around. There is a huge Metro parking lot around the corner, taxis lining the street waiting for Metro riders, and lots of construction nearby. But once you enter the building, the unsightly surroundings are forgotten. As you enter 8407 Kitchen Bar, there is a bar on the first floor. It doesn’t really register for me in terms of the decor. The dining room upstairs makes an impression. The room is spacious and it has an urban feel. Exposed brick walls and wood beam ceilings give the room warmth. There are some interesting half-circle booths on one side of the room, which I am eager to try on my next visit.

The cocktail menu is intriguing. The server notices that we are debating between wine and cocktails and encourages us to try a cocktail as it’s the last week for the summer selections. That’s depressing! Three of us take her advice. I order the Jalisco Summer which is strawberry infused milagro silver tequila, thai basil, lime, and aged balsamic. It’s an interesting combination, not too sweet and a touch tart. It’s a little too much of a “serious” cocktail for my liking. My friend has something called Betty’s Pear with Sloop Betty Vodka, pear cognac, campari, and Gruet sparkling, which has some unique flavors which aren’t bad but not necessarily to my liking.

We begin with wonderful breads, including one with sundried tomatoes, parmesan cheese, and herbs. When we remark to our server how good they are, she smiles and tell us that they come from her father, who owns Upper Crust Bakery. Nice!

I have the soup of the day, which is carrot ginger drizzled with beet coulis. Carrot ginger soup is part of my repertoire when I make Friday night dinners. This one bests mine only because of the beet coulis. It adds a nice layer of flavor that I’ll have to try in my home-cooked version sometime.

My friend has beets and Cherry Glen goat cheese with local greens, pistachios, pistachio oil and grapefruit. It is a struggle for me not to order this, as I am such a fan of beets and goat cheese. I do have a bite and again the addition of a single ingredient (this time grapefruit) takes a standard dish to another level.

The duck confit spring rolls are also tasty. I especially like the sweet chili dipping sauce.

My husband opts for a beautiful Path Valley Heirloom Tomato salad, with marinated buffalo mozarella.

My friend and I both decide to have Wild Alaskan Sockeye Salmon which is served with jasmine rice, gingered swiss chard, and yuzu-sake glaze. The Asian flavors are sweet with just a hint of spice. It is a fairly simple dish but it is well prepared, although my friend finds her swiss chard a little chewy and is dismayed at her portion of mushrooms. I have to admit that there are a few more mushrooms on my plate compared to hers.

My husband has house-made gnocchi with roasted wild mushrooms and parmesan coulis. The flavors and textures of the pillowy gnocchi, earthy mushrooms, and smooth coulis are a dynamite trio.

The final entree at our table is pesto crusted halibut with summer squash caponata, and roasted porcini-basil vinaigrette. Kudos for the flavor, particularly the crispy skin on the fish.

We share two desserts. The chocolate cloud is certainly good but we decide it is not destination-worthy.

“

My husband decides the ginger cheesecake with peach compote and spiced pecan is worth another visit. He loves the dense and creamy texture, and the subtle flavor of ginger.

I wasn’t really in a dessert mood, which is too bad now that I see the photos. I would like a bite of the cheesecake right about now.

Our server has noticed us taking pictures and asks if I am going to be blogging the dinner. “Maybe,” I reply, trying but not succeeding to be evasive. “How will I find it? I want to see what you write about me,” she says. I wish I had written down her name, because she is absolutely delightful. She hears us talking about Italy and chimes in because she has recently returned from two years of study there. We appreciate her restaurant recommendations!

The thing that kept me from going back to Nicaro is that I never thought the food justified the cost. I was expecting the same of 8407 Kitchen Bar, which means it kept getting pushed back on my priority list. I am pleasantly surprised. While the prices are in the same range as Nicaro (starters around $10 and entrees around $25), the execution is done just right. This leaves me feeling as if I’ve had a value meal even though there is no discount in sight. That’s a good deal!

8407 Kitchen Bar, 8407 Ramsey Avenue, Silver Spring, MD
My rating (on a 1-5 scale): 4.3
Washington Post, 2011 Spring Dining Guide Review

Filed Under: 8407 Kitchen Bar, MD Dining, Pedro Matamoros, Silver Spring dining

Ristorante Tosca and My Strategic Plan for DC Restaurant Week

August 25, 2011 By Lori Leave a Comment

I have been a faithful DC Restaurant Week participant for about as long as there has been a DC Restaurant Week. As soon as I receive an email or Tweet announcing the dates and participating restaurants, I drop absolutely everything I am doing to begin making reservations. An opportunity to spend $35 for a three course meal should not produce anxiety or require a complicated plan. But somehow this is always how it plays out for me. This year I implemented a super-secret reservations strategy that I am not able to divulge for fear that everyone will use it next year. (Suffice it to say that it worked.)

My goal is to make one reservation at someplace I love (Rasika), one at a new restaurant (Todd Gray’s Watershed) and one from my to do list for Washingtonian’s 100 Very Best Restaurants 2011 (Ristorante Tosca). I actually achieve this goal, but the execution falls apart before implementation. I end up not going to Rasika, instead opting to attend the Celebrity Chef Tour event. I don’t go to Watershed because I ate too much food and stayed out too late at the Celebrity Chef Tour event. This leaves only my reservation at Ristorante Tosca.
After all this plotting and planning, I begin to question whether going to Tosca during DC Restaurant Week is even worthwhile. I can’t believe that I am thinking this, but there it is. A blog post on Young and Hungry, the Washington City Paper restaurant blog, reaffirms my concerns:

Excerpted from It’s DC Restaurant Week: Do You Care? by Chris Shott

For diners, the upside is simple: the deal offers you the chance to try a restaurant you might not otherwise be able to afford, or at least think you might not otherwise be able to afford. The downside: large crowds and limited menus. Even worse: the quality of the food may suffer, as kitchens crank out bigger quantities of fewer items and with arguably less motivation to make it good. After all, what chef is going to bust his ass to impress some fly-by-night guest who likely isn’t coming back until the next discount orgy in January? WaPo columnist Ezra Klein once put it this way: “you’re spending almost as much as you would otherwise, but getting worse food, fewer options, and a crummier experience.”

Meanwhile, more savvy diners may see it as an opportunity to patronize places that don’t participate in the promotion, as reservations may be easier to obtain because the crowds are flocking elsewhere.

I am nothing if not easily influenced by what I read, so I think more seriously about avoiding Restaurant Week altogether. This only exacerbates the anxiety I am already feeling. I need to calm down. I review the Tosca menu online and am reassured when I see that the choices are to be made from the entire menu, rather than restricting diners to a few dishes. Plus, the main course dishes are all in the $30 range, so the savings will be significant. Now I only have to worry about the quality of the food. This is not a problem. It’s something I do on an almost daily basis.

We arrive at Tosca where we are joined by another couple. The first decision to be made is whether to begin with salad or pasta. Our server, who is delighted to help us navigate the menu, strongly encourages us to try the pasta. “You can have salad anywhere!” His Italian accent is endearing and I don’t need convincing. Pasta it is. My choice: Tagliatrini al nero di seppia con polpa di granchio, carciofi e aglio arrosto which translates to black ink tagliatelle with jumbo lump crab meat ragu, calabrese pepper, artichokes, and roasted garlic. This is an irresistible combination of flavors: the inky, slightly salty pasta with the rich crabmeat, creamy garlicky sauce, and the sweet tomatoes. It is a luscious dish, which I would have declared perfect had there been just a touch more artichoke.

Black ink taglierini

My husband enjoys his salad of radicchio and Bartlett pears with imported Gorgonzola cheese terrine and toasted walnuts. He describes it as well-executed but similar to my comment, is wishing for a bit more pear. Overall, however, these are two satisfying starters.

radicchio and pear salad

My friend starts with deep fried squash blossom filled with burrata cheese, red pepper sauce, mache, capers and Bagna cauda sauce (garlic, anchovies, and olive oil). I take a bite and I am surprised by the coating, which reminds me of a sweet and sour dish from a Chinese restaurant. Not that there is anything wrong with that. It’s quite good.

deep fried squash blossom

I am feeling a bit predictable when it comes to ordering my main course. I opt for roasted scallops served with English pea puree, sauteed chanterelle mushrooms, and Port wine reduction. I have eaten a fair share of scallops lately and I really need to diversify my menu selections. Next time. For now, I enjoy every morsel of scallops. They are cooked just right, and the tart wine contrasts nicely with the delicate (and beautiful) pea puree.

scallops with pea puree

My husband has opted for the daily grilled fish with chef’s selection of organic vegetables. He chooses swordfish, which can be risky because it so easily can be served too dry. Not this swordfish. The thickly cut meaty fish, is charred on the outside and pink on the inside.

My friend’s spinach ravioli filled with roasted veal, prosciutto and pistachio mortadella with a red wine reduction, butter, fresh sage and Parmesan cheese, elicits gasps upon her first bite. I have to see what the fuss is about. Yes, this dish is definitely gasp-worthy. The combination of meats and fresh cheese produce a succession of flavor explosions.

spinach ravioli

The risotto special with seafood, on the other hand, does not have the same appealing presentation or flavor wow of the other dishes. It’s not bad, says my friend, just nothing special.

I am a model of restraint when it comes to dessert. I have rhubarb sorbetti. The flavor is
indistinguishable as rhubarb but the texture is good, as is the accompanying fresh fruit. My companions
have “modernized tiramisu” which in this case is deconstructed and served in a martini glass, and
rice pudding with berries. I am told that they are both good. I don’t taste either one. I should have for
the sake of the blog post but I am trying to atone for the caloric intake of my first two courses.

modernized tiramisu

rice pudding

The atmosphere at Ristorante Tosca is somewhat subdued. The colors are neutral and my overall feeling
about about the decor is that it’s soothing and sophisticated. While the room is packed, I can hear my
dining companions speak. I cannot hear what they are talking about at the next table. This cannot be
underestimated in terms of appeal. While I can appreciate a trendy spot that is buzzing with activity
and noise, sometimes I do want to converse without straining my ears and voice.

Tosca interior www.opentable.com

The service is impeccable. Our server is invested in every choice we make and we are never made to feel
less special because it is Restaurant Week. Given that the entire menu is up for grabs, I assume that nearly
everyone is taking advantage of the deal, which levels the playing field.

My strategic plan has enabled me to accomplish my goals. I have a great dining experience at a reduced
rate. Happily, my confidence has been restored in this event. DC Restaurant Week comes around
again in January, which gives me some time to contemplate my plan of action. And no, I will not reveal
my super-secret reservations strategy.

**You don’t have to wait for Restaurant Week to roll around again to visit Tosca and save. They have a
a pre-theater three course meal for $38, available 7 days a week from 5:30 to 7:00 pm.

DC Restaurant Week has been extended through the end of August at many restaurants.
Check Open Table for details.

Ristorante Tosca, 1112 F St. NW, Washington, DC
My rating (on a 1-5 scale): 4.4
Zagat rating: 27

#33, Washingtonian’s 100 Very Best Restaurants 2011

Filed Under: DC dining, DC Restaurant, Ristorante Tosca

All Aboard the Celebrity Chef Tour

August 20, 2011 By Lori 2 Comments

There are not many things that would entice me to give up my hard-to-get Restaurant Week reservation at Rasika. But when an email arrives announcing the Celebrity Chef Tour dinner at The Source by Wolfgang Puck, it catches my attention. It goes without saying that I am going to be intrigued by any event that features Top Chefs’ Mike Isabella and Bryan Voltaggio. But the event also features a prestigious list of additional “top chef”s including Cathal Armstrong, Patrick O’Connell, Victor Albisu, Scott Drewno, and Tiffany MacIsaac. This is a fundraiser for the James Beard Foundation, the goal of which is to “celebrate, nurture, and preserve America’s diverse culinary heritage and future.” This is a goal which I wholeheartedly embrace.

chefs at Celebrity Chef Tour DC photo courtesy of Paul Kim | www.paulkimphoto.com

As it does whenever the possibility of exceptional food is looming, my heart begins to pound. Can I really forgo Rasika? I can and I do…at least for one night. I contact three food-loving friends (without dietary restrictions) who may be willing to embark on this not inexpensive adventure with me. They are.

I try to come up with an analogy for the Celebrity Chef Tour as I describe the evening to my husband the next morning. He listens to me explain the multitude of courses, each prepared artfully by a celebrated chef. He nods and says it sounds somewhat like the baseball All-Star Game. I much prefer my friend’s analogy, who likens the experience to shopping in Chevy Chase, where you can drift from one exclusive store to another.

As we enter The Source, I immediately take note of the crowd. My conclusion…buy myself a cute new cocktail dress for next year. Drinks are flowing freely and my friends and I eagerly rush to take advantage, although we are cautious not to overindulge. Most of the time we share drinks. My favorite is the “Green Eyed Geisha” featuring rum, yuzu, orange and basil syrup by Adam Manson of the Source. Well-known mixologist Todd Thrasher is vigorously shaking up his “Norfolk Dumpling” macchu pisco, anejo tequila, house-made lemon and cherry bitters, and house-made duck sauce soda. It’s a little difficult to hold back on the drinks, but I know I must keep my wits about me.

Todd Thrasher mixes it up photo courtesy of Paul Kim | www.paulkimphoto.com

The only negative of the evening occurs early on. There are supposed to be four different passed appetizers. I only am able to score two and that is by moving my position closer to where the servers are coming out. The first is foie gras with peach membrillo, toasted almond butter, and brioche by Haidar Karoun of Proof. I am not a fan of foie gras or almond butter, so I don’t care for it. The second is branzino tartare with fennel, radish, and chili by Mike Isabella of Graffiato. It’s light and refreshing with the chilis providing just a touch of heat. I never see the other two appetizers prepared by Adam Sobel of Bourbon Steak. I comment on this to two of the staff once we are seated upstairs. To their credit they each bring our table some additional appetizers. Unfortunately, they are the foie gras and branzino, which I’ve already tried. But we are impressed by the effort.

Mike Isabella photo courtesy of Paul Kim | www.paulkimphoto.com

branzino tartare by Mike Isabella photo courtesy of Paul Kim | www.paulkimphoto.com

foie gras by Haidar Karoum, photo courtesy of Paul Kim | www.paulkimphoto.com

I am not going to let two missing appetizers affect my enjoyment of the evening. Instead I sip on a refreshing glass of Lucien Crochet Sauvignon Blanc, which is to be paired with our first course of sashimi of fluke with heirloom tomato and basil vinaigrette, presented by Cathal Armstrong of Restaurant Eve. Let the flavor explosion begin! We are beginning to sense the true depth of quality of the food we are about to receive.

sashimi of fluke by Cathal Armstrong, photo courtesy of Paul Kim | www.paulkimphoto.com

The next course is lamb carpaccio with caesar salad ice cream presented by Patrick O’Connell of The Inn at Little Washington. This is our favorite dish. It is unanimous. The savory lamb contrasting with the cool bits of ice cream is unexpected and unparalleled. We are told that Patrick O’Connell is unable to be here, but his team has prepared an impeccable dish in his absence. (Note to husband: must get to The Inn at Little Washington).

lamb carpaccio by Patrick O’Connell photo courtesy of Paul Kim | www.paulkimphoto.com

My friend texts me from Rasika, where I am supposed to be on this night: “it is not possible that you had a better meal tonight.” My reply: “oh yes it is, and we’re only on the second course.” She understands that coming from me, these few words speak volumes.

I don’t need to look at the menu to know who’s dish is up next. It is Nunavit Arctic Char with applewood smoke, flavors of everything bagel, fennel, and creme fraiche, presented by Bryan Voltaggio of Volt Restaurant. My favorite part of this dish is the everything bagel seasonings that are sprinkled over the fish, perhaps because my freezer is never without a few everything bagels stashed away I am not as enamored of the fish roe on the plate, which adds a fishy taste that I don’t care for. I sneak a peek at my twitter and see that Tiffany MacIsaac has tweeted “Love watching chefs cook. @BryanVoltaggio is killing it on the wok.”

Nunavut arctic char by Bryan Voltaggio photo courtesy of Paul Kim | www.paulkimphoto.com

Bryan Voltaggio prepping his dish photo courtesy of Paul Kim | www.paulkimphoto.com

The source of the next dish is also easily identifiable with its Asian flair. It’s from the host chef, Scott Drewno of The Source by Wolfgang Puck. It is lacquered Chinese duck, with cherries, and lo mein noodles. I love the sweet cherries paired in combination with the fragrant spicy noodles.

lacquered Chinese duck by Scott Drewno photo courtesy of Paul Kim | www.paulkimphoto.com

Each dish is paired with wine. We are not connoisseurs, even though one of my friends is married to a wine writer. In fact, a table of his oenophile friends are seated nearby. We are dumbfounded by but respectful of their capacity to drink. My friend reminds us that her husband always says that it doesn’t matter how expensive the wine is, what matters is that you like it. We are comfortable with this sentiment, as we have no idea about the true value of the wine we are drinking. But from our perspective, they pair perfectly with the food.
At this point, our own capacity for both food and drink is pretty much at the limit. This is a shame because the next course is a hefty portion of grilled wagyu ribye with top cap roulade, local corn ajo blanco, and burnt onion chimichurri by Victor Albisu of BLT Steak. While at first it is difficult to slice the meat with a knife, it is perfectly tender on the inside. I am so disappointed that I am only able to enjoy a few bites of this dish. The server takes it away. Later we notice other people are taking their leftovers home. I wish this would have been offered to us as an option. It hasn’t occurred to me. I take comfort in the fact that I really do not need to eat this the next day. Instead I will have a salad for lunch to atone for all the calories packed into this wonderful meal.

grilled wagyu ribeye by Victor Albisu photo courtesy of Paul Kim | www.paulkimphoto.com

One of the highlights of the evening is when Jeff Black, President of the Celebrity Chef Tour, stops by our table to check in. He wants to know how we heard about the event (thank you Visa Signature Card). After learning of our fascination with “Top Chef” he regales us with some great stories about Carla Hall, who participated in a recent event in Crested Butte, Colorado. I tell him about The Night I was Pushed by Carla Hall.

I’ve seen Mike Isabella floating around the dining room during the evening, but haven’t yet spotted Bryan Voltaggio and shamelessly ask Jeff to send him up to say hello. (I am becoming bolder as time goes on.) Meanwhile, Mike, who now has met me enough times to recognize me, stops by our table to say hello. As he is chatting with my friends and I, Bryan stops by as well. It’s a deja vu moment, hearkening back to my recent dinner at Graffiato, when my husband took a photo capturing me smiling ecstatically as I’m surrounded by the two chefs. I decide that another photo is overkill, and I pride myself on my restraint. But not before admitting to Bryan something that I know about him because I saw it on Twitter. Come to think of it, I haven’t seen him tweet much since then. Could it be something I said?

My friends and I are re-energized by our visitors, and we welcome the next course which is described on the menu as “a pastry amuse.” A dessert before our dessert. It is a sorbetti duo of lemon opal basil and cucumber mint vodka. These aren’t your average super-sweet sorbets. They are refined and refreshing. I particularly like the rice-crispy like crunch underneath.

sorbetti duo by Robb and Violeta Duncan of Dolcezza photo courtesy of Paul Kim | www.paulkimphoto.com

It is getting very late and I can only take a bite of the dessert by Tiffany MacIsaac of Birch and Barley and my favorite Buzz Bakery. It is Gianduja panna cotta with cherries, hazelnut crunch, and chocolate curl. I am actually saddened that I am so stuffed, even though I would have avoided the hazelnuts.

Gianduja pana cotta by Tiffany MacIsaac photo courtesy of Paul Kim | www.paulkimphoto.com

At this point we look up to realize that most of the diners are now gone and the clock is quickly approaching midnight. We are not sure how this has happened. We are exhausted on the Metro heading home, but at the same time reveling in the deliciousness of our journey. As one friend states “it was so amazing to really be in the moment with the food. It was a very sensory experience.”

Some people find the term “Celebrity Chef” cringe-worthy, perhaps including the chef’s themselves. I don’t subscribe to this train of thought. I’m on board with the Celebrity Chef Tour, so much so that I wonder if I can rationalize a trip to Philadelphia in October, when Top Chef‘s Jen Carroll will host another leg of the tour.

The Celebrity Chef Tour is heading to Minneapolis, Los Angeles, Chicago, Detroit, Houston, Nashville, San Diego, and Philadelphia.

Filed Under: Celebrity Chef Tour, James Beard Foundation

My "Just Email" Interview with Top Chef Just Desserts Matthew Petersen

August 15, 2011 By Lori 1 Comment

I have said this before and I will say it again. I am a Top Chef fan. I get a thrill out of eating food prepared by Top Cheftestants and a bigger thrill when I actually meet one. You can only imagine how excited I was when I opened my email a few weeks ago to find an official press release about the upcoming season of Top Chef Just Desserts on Bravo, and an invitation to interview the locally-based Matthew Petersen.

The idea that I can actually connect with a cheftestant before the show even airs? My heart begins to race. I realize that my interview skills may be a bit lacking, so I immediately race down the hall to talk to a colleague who conducts interviews for her job, and is a fellow fan of the show. We brainstorm possible questions. Now we are both excited.

The next email clarifies the offer as a telephone interview. That’s fine. Maybe it’s better. I continue to ponder my questions. A follow-up email asks about my deadline. “I don’t have a deadline, I am a blogger,” I reply. Uh, oh. Maybe I shouldn’t have said that. The next correspondence says that I can email my questions and Matthew’s responses will be sent back shortly thereafter. Oh well. I will have to ~~stalk~~ meet Matthew another time. Fortunately, I only have to go as far as the Mandarin Oriental. In the meantime, here’s Matthew’s bio and my interview.


Matthew Petersen (bravotv.com)

BIO
MATTHEW PETERSEN
AGE: 32
HOMETOWN: Dublin, PA – currently resides in Arlington, VA
PROFESSION: Executive Pastry Chef, CityZen and Sou’Wester at the Mandarin Oriental in Washington, D.C.
CULINARY EDUCATION: A.O.S Baking and Pastry, Johnson and Wales

Matthew works as the Executive Pastry Chef at CityZen and Sou’Wester, both located inside the Mandarin Oriental Hote in Washington, DC. Prior to landing in D.C. with James Beard Award Winner Eric Ziebold, Matthew worked for Daniel Boulud in New York City at db Bistro Moderne, and also served as Executive Pastry Chef at Café Boulud in Palm Beach for two years.Before moving to New York to work with Boulud, Matthew was the Pastry Chef at two of Philadelphia’s most coveted dining destinations – LaCroix and Morimoto. If he could have one last meal with anyone, it would be with his wife Laura, and they’d make BLT’s on fresh ciabatta bread with arugula salad with chocolate chip cookie ice cream sandwiches for dessert.

“Been There/Eaten That” Interview with Matthew Petersen

Q: What motivated you to audition for Top Chef Just Desserts?
A: The desire to win 100,000 to purchase a home for my family, and I also wanted to prove to myself that I could do it.

Q. Did you watch the first season of TC Just Desserts? If so, was there one particular challenge you hoped not to face?
A. I did watch the first season. There really wasn’t any challenge that I was like, “man I don’t want to have to do that.” I wanted to do them all!

Q. Did you have a strategy for how you hoped to be portrayed as a “cheftestant”? Did it work?
A. No, I was myself. I don’t know, I haven’t seen the show!

Q. Why do you think challenge shows such as Top Chef, Top Chef Masters, and Top Chef Desserts are so popular?
A. Drama of course! Oh and the talent level just keeps getting higher and higher and the chefs better and better. It also helps that there are crazy challenges.

Q. Are you ready for the celebrity status that appearing on a show Top Chef can bring?
A. Well I’m not sure what that will mean for me but I love a good challenge.

Q. How would you characterize the group this season? Collegial? Catty? Any dessert divas?
A. Can’t say, you’re just gonna have to watch what happens!

Q. How did you handle the stress of the competition?. Do you believe like so many of us that since “desserts” is “stressed” spelled backwards, it’s the perfect antitode to extreme pressure?
A. I just tried to remain calm and focused, getting stressed out would not help wouldn’t help so I tried to remember that at all times.

Q. Where is your favorite place to get dessert (besides CityZen and Sou’wester)?
A. Truthfully, I don’t go out for dessert! If I am at a place known for desserts I will certainly order but otherwise, I just stick to the savory. I would say though that DBGB in NYC has some good stuff.

I can’t wait to watch Top Chef Just Desserts when it airs Wednesday, Aug. 24 on Bravo. I’ll be cheering loudly for DC’s Matthew Petersen and figuring out just how quickly I can hightail it down to CityZen and or Sou’wester for my just desserts.

Filed Under: CityZen, Matthew Petersen, Season 2, Sou'wester, Top Chef Just Desserts

When Local Means Local at The Daily Dish

August 12, 2011 By Lori 2 Comments

The Daily Dish (photo from www.opentable.com)

I attended my first DC Food Blogger event last week. When I told my friend this, she innocently asked “There are other restaurant bloggers in DC?” Yes, there are. Possibly hundreds of them. Most have been doing this far longer than I, and some have followings in the thousands. Many are well acquainted with each other as a result of attending these happy hours, restaurant openings, and other noteworthy events.

As my one year blogiversary approached, I decided it was time for me to meet some of the other bloggers. I bravely take the Metro downtown, by myself, and walk the few blocks to J & G Steakhouse, where the event is being held in the wine bar.

I am a bit nervous at first. It can be intimidating to walk into a room where you don’t know anyone. But then I begin conversing with people about restaurants…and blogging…and restaurants! This is something I can talk about with some degree of confidence. I breathe a silent sigh of relief.

I meet Zena Polin and Jerry Hollinger, who tell me they are co-owners of The Daily Dish in Silver Spring. This used to be Red Dog Cafe, a restaurant I have been to on a few occasions and liked as much for the cool neighborhood vibe as I did for the food. I had forgotten all about the cafe, and didn’t know it changed hands two years ago.

I wonder how I missed hearing about The Daily Dish, and the only thing I can come up with is that the somewhat generic name escaped my attention. I am intrigued by their description of the food (locally sourced comfort food) and Zena and Jerry are engaging people, so I decide to dine there a few nights later with my husband and two other couples.

According to the website:

The Daily Dish is a play of words that reflects the passion of its two owners, Jerry Hollinger and Zena Polin, who believe in serving comfort food with a twist — food that is seasonally inspired, locally sourced and made from farm fresh ingredients.

The Daily Dish maintains the comfortable vibe of the previous incarnation. It now has a bar featuring some innovative cocktails. I begin with a blueberry pomegranate martini. It is delightful and not too sweet. My friend has a “Dirty Betty” martini made with a local vodka and hand stuffed olives with blue cheese. These are so good, we ask for more and are truly dismayed when we realize one has dropped to the floor.

Sloop Betty vodka made in Maryland

We begin our meal by sharing white pizza with house made crust, parmigiano-reggiano, and fresh mozzarella. The crust is not as crispy as I like it but the flavor, which has plenty of garlic and gooey cheese, makes up for the lack of crunch. We declare it “killer good.”

white pizza

I’ve chosen fresh lobster and corn ravioli with a sundried tomato cream sauce as my main course. This is a delicious dish with homemade pasta, made just a mile away. It has the potential to be too rich, but it’s not. The sundried tomatoes add texture to the creamy sauce. It is a winning combination and one I would eagerly try again- perhaps as a first course.

lobster and corn ravioli

Two people have rockfish with shrimp broth and julienne of fennel, carrot, celery, and roasted onion. They agree that the first bite is quite good but this is a dish that gets better with every bite.

The same goes for my husband’s salmon ripieghi (which is described as an Italian foldover sandwich) made with organic, farm-raised, Black Pearl Salmon with arugula and remoulade sauce. At first he says it is bland. But once he delves deeper and reaches the sauce, he is a happy camper.

Another friend has steak salad with blue cheese and buttermilk dressing. The steak is well prepared and flavorful and the portion is plentiful. It is a satisfying selection.

Throughout our dinner we are visited by Zena and Jerry, as well as Executive Chef Michael Chretien. My friends joke that they are dining out with someone famous, as we clearly are getting some attention. My sense is that anyone who takes the time to become a regular at The Daily Dish would get the same treatment.

Our server brings us an array of desserts with an apology for my husband being served his dish a few minutes later than the rest of us. He doesn’t mind, as it results in it being served piping hot. I won’t deny that this may be due to my known status as a blogger. Whatever the reason, they are all worth the calories: molten lava cake (which we decide is the best), limoncello marscapone cake, and a trio of locally-made ice creams: black raspberry, bittersweet chocolate, and smores.

The Daily Dish desserts

There are some factors that make The Daily Dish a standout for me. The prices are reasonable. The menu selection includes items for a truly casual dinner out (pizza and salad) or something more upscale such as the creative fish dishes. There are special offers such as three course dinners for $30 on Thursday nights, and buy one/get one half price pizza or burger on Wednesday nights. These have make an impression on my friends, who are eager for a return visit. Me too!

I am glad that I conquered my fears and made by way to the DC Food Bloggers happy hour, because I may never have stumbled upon The Daily Dish. While it is not so uncommon to have locally sourced food these days, it is rare is to have such an appealing dining option that is less than twenty minutes from my house. That’s my kind of local.

The Daily Dish, 8301 A Grubb Road, Silver Spring
My rating (on a 1-5 scale): 4.4

Filed Under: MD Dining, Silver Spring dining, The Daily Dish

The Age of El Centro, D.F.

August 6, 2011 By Lori Leave a Comment

I am starting to feel self-conscious about my age in certain restaurants. I felt this upon entering Graffiato recently where a young and boisterous crowd initially makes me want to turn and run. Although once we go upstairs the scene gets a little quieter and a little more age-balanced (and the food is worth the discomfort). Lincoln is another restaurant where the crowd skews young and I feel slightly out of place. I am certainly not ready to limit my dining options to more refined dining establishments such as Obelisk, Proof, or Blue Duck Tavern where a fifty-something is more the norm, so I’ll have to learn to get over it.

This self-awareness is ever-present as my husband and I and two other couples enter the relatively new El Centro, D.F. on a Saturday night. There is a swarm of twenty-somethings at the communal tables which line the front of the restaurant. And they are making a lot of noise. My friends and I immediately glance at each other and comment that we may be too old for the place. It definitely doesn’t help that one of my friends is sporting a cane, as she awaits an upcoming surgery.

We are leddownstairswhere the sound is not so deafening, which is a relief. “Ah, a little diversity,” I think, as I scan the tables and notice we may no longer be the only people around who are eligible for AARP membership.

The downstairs of El Centro, D.F. is what I imagine a Mexican mausoleum to look like. I say this in a good way. It’s cold but not unappealing. (I am not too old to appreciate a cool vibe when I see it).

El Centro, D.F. is a Richard Sandoval restaurant. Sandoval owns 28 restaurants across the country, including Masa 14 which is just a few doors down. Like Masa 14, it is co-owned by Kaz Sushi Bistrochef Kaz Okochi. El Centro, D.F. focuses strictly on Mexican food. There are three floors: a casual taqueria on the first floor (the noisy one), a Teqileria underground where there are over 200 Tequilas & Mezcals, and a rooftop with bars (we didn’t check this out- too hot outside). We are headed to the theater after dinner, which means that we are forgoing the tequila drinks for shared glasses of wine. I know it’s lame, but a real sign of our age is that we all know we’ll fall asleep during the show if we drink.We begin with the guacamole, prepared table side. There are no big explanations from the server on the preparation, but that’s fine. We’ve all been there, done that. This guacamole is very good. Chunky, lots of cilantro, the right amount of spice. There is also the right amount of accompanying chips, which is not always a given.I order chicken enchiladas divorciadas, which is distinguished by two sauces: tomatillo sauce and entomatada sauce. The server has recommended this dish because I will have the benefit of two distinct sauces.
I have no idea why these enchiladas are divorced. They get along quite well on the plate. The flavors are robust and spot on in terms of the level of spice. If I had to choose one sauce over the other, I couldn’t. They are both quite nice. The accompanying rice and beans are good, if not distinctive.

El Centro, D.F. chicken enchiladas divorciadas

My husband is excited to try something new. He has grilled nopal tacos with market vegetables, chayote,
queso fresco, and salsa roja. Grilled nopal is cactus. He is hard-pressed to describe the flavor but he likes the texture and labels the dish “excellent.”

El Centro, D.F. grilled nopal tacos

My friends have baja tacos which is grilled market fish, mexican slaw, and chipotle aioli. There is some confusion over one of the orders which causes a delay. But this is a small blip. Otherwise, the service is competent. The fish is cooked just right and the corn, tomatoes, onions, and avocado blend together in a classic Mexican way.

El Centro, D.F. baja tacos

Once we settled in to our table and the food we are no longer cognizant of the age of the diners around us. In fact, while it is certainly bustling in the downstairs Teqileria, we are able to concentrate on the food and the conversation.

The cooking at El Centro, D.F. is competent, the prices fair, and the service enthusiastic. If you are a fan of Mexican food, as I am, this is certainly worth a visit as a fine and fun option on the bustling 14th and U Street corridor. As I look to formulate a conclusion to this post, I come across this quote:

“Age is something that doesn’t matter, unless you are a cheese.”

Luis Buñuel(1900-1983)

I am going to try and remember this as I continue my journey through the DC restaurant scene. I will try not to be too cheesy along the way.

El Centro D.F. , 1819 14th St. NW

My rating (on a 1-5 scale): 4.0

Filed Under: D.F., DC dining, El Centro, Mexican restaurant DC

My One Year Blogiversary: A Growing Food Obsession, a Shrinking Wallet

August 4, 2011 By Lori 3 Comments

This week marks the one year blogiversary for “Been There, Eaten That.” A year ago, I knew nothing about blogging. One Sunday afternoon I was bored and somehow stumbled upon Blogger. I started writing and I couldn’t stop. Dining out has always been my passion and I am not a stranger to writing. But putting them together wasn’t something I had considered.

I started by sending the link out to my friends. They seemed to like it, but many of them knew less about blogs than I did. But I persevered and so did they. It still stuns me when I run into people and they know some tidbit about my life. My husband’s broken nose. The fact that I like crusty bread and don’t eat nuts. My recent business trip to wherever. I put it all out there and then I forget that people actually read it.

The question I get asked most often is “do you eat out more often than you used to?” Nope. I’ve always had dinner out about twice a week. I am spending more money on food more because I feel compelled to try out more high end restaurants. But compared to most other restaurant bloggers, I hardly eat out at all. In fact, if I have a goal for myself in year two it is: Eat Out More Often! I still have to conquer more of Washingtonian’s 100 Best Restaurants 2011 and Tom Sietsema’s Spring Dining Guide. However, I would like to balance the high end dining with more low to moderate priced dining (my bank account would like this too). Healthier food would be good as well. Wait, are cupcakes considered healthy?

Another goal is to get on press lists for restaurant openings and special events. I am not ashamed to say it. I would like more free food! But honestly my objective is to be more in the loop on what’s happening in DC dining beyond all the reading I do. My personal demographics are quite unique according to a recent food blogger survey conducted by DC365. Most of the respondents (DC food bloggers) are single (59%) and between the ages of 25-34 (70%). I am married and way older than that. However, this means that many of my followers who are friends and friends of friends are as old as me, and therefore likely to be spending more money on dining than many younger restaurant goers. Do you hear that restaurant PR people?

I’ve had some pretty cool accomplishments this year including:

Selected one of the Best 100 travel blogs of 2011 by Washington Flyer
Won a contest sponsored by Washington City Paper for my review of Volt’s Table 21
Quoted by Groupon in their promotion for Addie’s
Was featured on Metrocurean’s 5 Bites

My blog has made it all the way to the Supreme Court, thanks to a friend who knows Justice Sonia Sotomayor, who I met one night as I dined at Carmine’s.

Been There, Eaten That has also made its way to some of my favorite Top Cheftestants, who I have been beyond thrilled to meet:

Bryan Voltaggio: Breaking News and Dinner at Volt’s Table 21

Mike Isabella: Fan-tastic Food at Graffiato, What Kind of Fool Am I?, A Night at the Museum: The Gulf and Its Seafood One Year Later

Carla Hall: The Night I was Pushed by Carla Hall

Mike Isabella, Bryan Voltaggio, me

Carla Hall and me

Because the food is really what this is all about, here are a few of my favorites dishes from the past year:


Chicken thighs with pepperoni sauce, Graffiato

scallops with lemon and thyme, Blue Duck Tavern


goat cheese ravioli, Volt

kale salad, Lincoln

tarte aux cerises, Bistro Bis

palak chat, Rasika

orange tian, Adour

If you have been a regular reader, thanks for your support. If you are new to my blog, I hope you’ll come back soon. And because social media has certainly helped me along the way, you can follow me on Twitter @foodobsessed6 and on Facebook.

I need to stop writing now and go make some restaurant reservations. These food photos are unleashing some fierce cravings!