2011 December

The Hot and Cool Little Serow

December 29, 2011 By Lori 3 Comments

December 2012. It’s been almost a year since my first dinner at Little Serow. This really is far too long between visits, but easy to get to it isn’t. For one thing, I am limited on the number of people who will go with me to this “eat whatever is put before you, because there are no substitutions” restaurant. I finally am set to go with five friends until we realize that Little Serow only accepts parties of four. Awkward. Three people end up bowing out, and I feel guilty but relieved that two friends will still accompany me. The no reservations policy means getting there early (4:30 pm) and standing in line for an hour for the first seating. It is certainly possible to time your arrival for a later seating, but we aren’t so willing to put our name down and sit in a bar for an hour or two. Despite the fact the eating here involves a carefully planned strategy, perhaps it’s part of what captivates and thrills me about Little Serow.

It’s also one of the hottest restaurants in town. Bon Appétit recently named it one of the ten best new restaurants in America. On my second visit, we experience the hotness in more ways than one.

The menu at Little Serow changes weekly, so you never really know what to expect, although is posted on the website. Some favorites this time around are: ma hor with sour fruit, dried shrimp and palm sugar. Like almost every dish at Little Serow, it’s spicy, but this has a welcome sweetness to cut into the spice. Tom kha pla duk is soup with catfish, galangal, and kaffir lime. It’s a favorite of the night with its blend of savory and sour. Make sure to dine with people with whom you are comfortable, as you will all be diving into one bowl of soup. Last year’s menu featured nam tuk tow hu, which is tofu with mint, scallion, and rice powder. It’s here again, but none of us remember the dish being so explosive. It is searing to the tongue, with heat that increases long after you’ve taken your last bite. It takes us a while to recover. This slightly dampens my friends’ enthusiasm about the experience. I wouldn’t mind if the dish was taken down a notch on the heat-o-meter, but nothing can mar my enjoyment of this dinner. Pork ribs with mekhong whiskey and dill settle us all back into a happy place.

Little Serow is among my very favorite DC restaurants. So what if the food makes me cry. These are most definitely tears of joy.

December 29, 2011 “When I grow up, I want to be cool like you.” Oh yes, these are the words spoken to three friends and I by a server at Little Serow. Our gushing about the food created by Chef Johnny Monis at his exciting new restaurant is definitely entertaining the staff. Can we be the only people to be so enthralled with the place or at least to be so vocal about it? I doubt it. Can we be cool because we’re the oldest patrons to express such abject appreciation? Perhaps. We certainly increase the average age of the diners on this particular night. But I’m going to pretend I didn’t hear the age reference and dwell on the fact that someone thinks we are cool. If dining here makes us so, then we’ll take it.

Little Serow is the new sibling to DC’s #1-rated restaurant Komi. It is a seven-course prix fixe meal featuring dishes from Northern Thailand. There are quite a few no’s that go with this experience. No reservations, no sign on the door, no telephone, no ordering (it’s a set menu), and absolutely no substitutions. This isn’t a deterrent for me but it leaves out some of my frequent dining companions, including my husband. No flash photographs allowed means no photos to accompany my review. Although I’m allowed to take photos without a flash, it is far too dark to have anything usable.

Little Serow’s menu changes every Monday. If you don’t like something you see, wait a week. It may be replaced with something else to suit your fancy.

Here’s what we had:
khaep muu
green chilies / bla rah / shrimp paste
laap pla duk
catfish / shallots / chiles
nam tok tow hu
tofu / mint / rice powder
kanom bung na gapi
shrimp / cilantro root / sesame seeds
sai oua
pork sausage / kaffir / basil
neua grapao
Wagyu brisket / duck egg / basil
si krong muu
pork ribs / Mekhong whiskey / crispy garlic

At the outset we are served a plate with assorted fresh vegetables and a basket of sticky rice. We’re invited to scoop out the rice with our hands. These are the palate cleansers, to be enjoyed between courses as a standalone or to sop up some of the delicious sauces. We’re intrigued.

Two of my three friends are not necessarily fond of extremely spicy food, so I am a bit wary of how this is going to play out. But attitude is everything and we decide in advance that we are going to be “big girls” and try everything that’s put before us. As it turns out, there is nothing on this particular menu that challenges my comfort zone. To the contrary. Everything on the menu appeals to my taste buds in every way. We all comment about what a nice change of pace it is to not have to make any ordering decisions. It is almost a relief for me, as at times ordering causes me undue pressure. Here I can sit back and relax.

As the meal progresses, we get more and more rambunctious. It may be partly a result of our consumption of wine, but it has more to do with the awakening of our senses. By the time we get to the sausage with kaffir and basil my friend exclaims loudly “this is excruciatingly delicious.” A server overhears the comment and relays it to Chef Johnny. We’re invited back to meet him when we finish eating.

The meal is a progression of bold flavors and contrasting textures. The adjectives at our table are flying: intense, complex, aromatic, unique, a crescendo of flavors, perfection.

The atmosphere at Little Serow is simple and understated. You sit on stools at high tables in a simple room with concrete walls painted green. In another restaurant, it may be too simple. Here it is simply…cool.

The end of the meal comes far too quickly. As a final taste we are presented with a small cube of sticky rice with coconut custard. It’s delicious but we all agree we want more. It’s a slight dip in a night of many highs.

One of the things I like best about Little Serow is that it is reasonable at $45 for a seven-course meal. This makes it approachable for adventurous diners, and because of the changing menu can easily can be enjoyed on multiple occasions.

We are escorted back to the small open kitchen where we fawn over Johnny and his food. There are hugs for the servers (which is when we get the “cool” comment) and sadly our night is done. While we may be cool, I guess we are also old because it’s a little after 7:00 pm, and we’re already heading back to the suburbs.

Little Serow, 1511 17th Street, NW, Washington, DC
My rating (on a 1-5 scale): 4.8
Washingtonian‘s 100 Very Best Restaurants 2012, 3 stars (out of 4)

Washington Post review

Filed Under: DC dining, Little Serow Tagged With: Bon Appetit Best New Restaurants in America, DC dining, Johnny Monis, Little Serow, Washington DC dining, Washington DC restaurant reviews, Washingtonian 100 Very Best Restaurants

The Pearls Aren’t Only in the Oysters at Pearl Dive Oyster Palace

December 28, 2011 By Lori 1 Comment

I don’t like slimy or chewy fish. This includes oysters, clams, and mussels. I have tried them on occasion and for now it just isn’t happening. (I’ll never say never). Nonetheless, there is some good buzz out there about Jeff Black’s Pearl Dive Oyster Palace. In fact, it just earned two and a half stars on Washingtonian’s just released list of the “100 Very Best Restaurants.” It’s also mentioned by almost every expert asked on DC Eater’s “Restaurant Eaters Name the Top Newcomers of 2011.”

I peruse the menu online and it looks like there are plenty of choices for me, and a couple of things that my non-shellfish eating husband can have. It seems like the perfect outing for two Jews on a quiet Christmas Eve.

We head downtown early, in case there is a crowd at the no-reservations restaurant. Not only is there no crowd at 6:30 pm but there is parking on 14th Street, directly across from Pearl Dive. We’re starting off on the right foot.

Pearl Dive has the distressed-decor thing going on. Walls and floors with peeled paint. Funky lights. It feels comfortable and cool.

I begin with a cocktail called the Pearl Cup made with Pimms, Plymouth Gin, Cucumber, Lime, Mint, House Ginger Beer. I am a lightweight when it comes to cocktails and this deliciously refreshing drink packs a punch.

I order barbecue shrimp as an appetizer. The menu description says “garlic bread, messy fingers.” Indeed, these are finger-licking good. They are prepared with a dry rub of paprika and deglazed with Worcester sauce and beer. The tangy, salty, and spicy flavors topping the plump and juicy shrimp is what puts this on my “top appetizers of the year” list. (I don’t really have such a list, but if I did this would be there).

Pearl Dive barbecue shrimp

My husband has local butter lettuce salad with apples, Great Hill blue cheese, spiced pecans, and cider-brown butter vinaigrette. Simple ingredients, done well.

Pearl Dive butter lettuce salad

Reviews have extolled the virtues of Pearl Dive’s Pennsylvania Amish Chicken dinner. I consider a gumbo but the fried chicken is calling to me. I am glad that I heed the call. Braised in wine before frying, the skin is crispy and the chicken moist. The accompanying potatoes, greens, and slaw may sound like standard fare but the taste is far from standard. I think it’s a great value at $19. I have enough leftovers for two more meals.

Pearl Dive fried chicken

My husband has redfish with sage pecan butter and stone grits. He finds the crispy skin a delectable treat which makes the dish a standout. He’s also a fan of the creamy grits.

Pearl Dive redfish

We’re both stuffed, but not having dessert is out of the question. As soon as we hear about the eggnog pie, we’re sold. We agree that the eggnog flavor could have been a bit stronger, but the texture of the pie is smooth, creamy, and irresistible. The gingerbread men are pretty cute, too.

Pearl Dive eggnog pie

Any doubts about coming to Pearl Dive Oyster Palace as non-oyster eaters have vanished. Yes, I admit that I am a little curious when I hear nearby servers animatedly describing the oyster varieties. And maybe I am a bit envious of our neighboring diners who seem to be thoroughly enjoying their oyster experience. But I have yet to be persuaded to like mollusks and I’m not ready to start now. Pearl Dive Oyster Palace has many other jewels on the menu. For now, I’m sticking with them.

Pearl Dive Oyster Palace, 1612 14th Street, NW, Washington, DC
My rating (on a 1-5 scale): 4.4

Washingtonian Review
Washington Post review

Filed Under: DC dining, Pearl Dive Oyster Palace, Washington DC dining

Singing the Praises of District Commons

December 25, 2011 By Lori Leave a Comment

I realize that I am somewhat inconsistent when it comes to my ratings and reviews. Sometimes I like the food but the service or some other element is off, which lowers my opinion. Occasionally I can’t make up my mind based on one dining experience, so I don’t even attempt a numeric rating. There are times when the food is good but not everything is consistently great, yet the overall experience leaves me with a high opinion. The actions or inactions of a server can definitely make a difference, and the reactions of my companions can sway me to the negative or the positive. You see where I’m going with this? It just depends.

I am at District Commons for a holiday party. We are with a group of twenty-seven people, so there is plenty of opportunity to take the reactions of others into consideration when forming my impression. It also affords me the chance to sample more dishes than I normally would, which is always a good thing.

District Commons is an American tavern brought to Foggy Bottom by Jeff Tunks of Passion Food Group (Acadiana, Ceiba, DC Coast, Burger, Tap & Shake, and PassionFish). The ambiance is a mix of dark wood with modern touches and airy wide open spaces. Specialties include the raw bar, flatbreads, and 99 bottles of beer on the wall.

www.districtcommonsdc.com

We begin with hot pretzel baguettes with beer mustard butter. It’s a nice start. The pretzels are slightly crunchy on the outside, soft on the inside, with just the right amount of salt on top. I’m pacing myself so I only have a small taste of the butter. It is difficult to resist going back for thirds. (I go back for seconds immediately).

Two types of flatbreads are delivered to the table. One is Benton smoked bacon, vidalia onions, and Vermont creamery fromage blanc. The second flatbread is smoked salmon with lemon and dill mascarpone. It’s a toss up in terms of what I like best. You can’t go wrong with some good smoked bacon. But the smoked salmon flatbread has a cracker-thin crust and some flecks of hard-boiled egg on top that makes this a perfect breakfast for dinner dish. There are also oysters and two servings of “The Pig Board.” I am not an expert on ham. I take a taste and am sure that as ham goes this is good stuff.

The server for our table of thirteen is highly competent. He has a reverence for the food which I find endearing. The food is not complicated, but there are some inventive twists and it is helpful to get some advice. Someone at the table refers to the server as “appropriately anticipatory.” What a great term. I wish I had thought of it.

I order roasted duck “Low & Slow” with wild rice-sweet potato hash, and sorghum chili glaze. I must admit that this is one of those occasions when I love the starters but my main course falls a little flat. The duck is a tad overcooked and the flavor of the chili glaze is difficult to detect. Two other guests are expressing similar sentiments.

District Commons roasted duck

Why is this not phasing me? I am surrounded by happy diners. My husband has North Carolina mountain trout with broccolini, pine nuts, and citrus burnt butter. He likes that the citrus doesn’t overpower the flavor of the fish. He also admires the varying textures of the dish- the firm broccolini paired with the crunchy pinenuts.

District Commons mountain trout

There are heaps of praise and smiles all around for the pork chop and the shrimp and grits.

District Commons pork chop

At some point during the meal the server is told that we have a time constraint. We are heading to see Jersey Boys at the National Theatre. He tells us that the cast regularly dines at District Commons before their performances. Moments later two cast members are saying hello to our group, including one of the leads. He is adorable. He asks where we are sitting and says he’ll be singing to us. Count me in as charmed!

We all become a bit frantic towards the end of the meal, as we realize we have to scramble to get to the theatre on time. The server is right there with us, helping us gather our things so we don’t miss a beat.
Another perceptive comment by a fellow guest praising the service: “You can’t make crappy food good. But you can make good food ordinary with bad service.”

The server has connected with us in a way that brings the experience up a notch. The satisfaction of the other guests at the dinner underscore the importance of not judging an entire restaurant on a single dish. So, I leave District Commons feeling like I have had a great meal.

I have seen the original Broadway cast in “Jersey Boys.” I liked the show but hadn’t necessarily related to the music, and so it isn’t one of my favorite musicals of all time. But somehow now there is a difference.
The quick interaction with “Bob Gaudio” has somehow given me a new connection to the show. I find myself smiling through every song and loving every second of it. I can’t get over how much I have enjoyed myself.

It really shouldn’t be so hard to figure out, because it really is similar to what can happen in a restaurant. The smallest interaction – positive or negative- can make a significant impact on a final impression. The positive aspects of this particular evening leave me humming…”oh what a night.”

District Commons, 2200 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW, Washington, DC
My rating (on a 1-5 scale): 3.9

Filed Under: DC dining, District Commons, Jersey Boys, National Theatre, Washington DC dining

The Evolution of Silver Spring Dining and Jackie’s Restaurant

December 22, 2011 By Lori 1 Comment

I have lived in Silver Spring, Maryland for more than 35 years. I didn’t realize this until just now when I stopped to add up the number. It is actually disturbing to me on some level, as it’s a lot of years in one place. But it is what it is.

My first abode in the area was a small efficiency apartment off Georgia Avenue in downtown Silver Spring. The only place we ate out was a really mediocre Chinese restaurant a few blocks away from my apartment. It is long gone. I don’t remember the name.

Times have changed. Silver Spring has transformed, and while it isn’t exactly a dining mecca there are some pretty fine choices including Ray’s the Classics, 8407 Kitchen Bar,* Pacci’s Neapolitan Pizza, and KaoThai. And then there is Jackie’s Restaurant.

It is always welcome when a restaurant close to home can provide the same level of satisfaction in terms of cuisine and atmosphere as a restaurant in downtown DC. Jackie’s Restaurant is that kind of place. DC vibe, Georgia Avenue location. That’s what I’m talking about.

I’ve been to Jackie’s on five different occasions, which is as much as I’ve been to any restaurant in the entire DC area. My first visit left me angry about the service and complacent about the food. I liked the food on my second visit, loved it on my third, and was more neutral the fourth time. There has been a different chef almost every time. Last week was my first time experiencing the food of Chef Diana Davila-Boldin, who has been at the restaurant since April 2010. I find Jackie’s under her direction to be really, really good.

I am drawn to Jackie’s, despite my previous ups and downs, because I find the atmosphere tremendously appealing. It is a mash-up between industrial chic and psychedelic funky. The focus on locally-sourced seasonal ingredients is another plus.

www.jackiesrestaurant.com

I visit Jackie’s with my son, who as I have described in previous posts, is a vegetarian foodie. We’re dining before seeing a film at the AFI (American Film Institute).

We begin by sharing sweet corn hushpuppies with collard greens and cayenne infused butter. The hushpuppies arrive piping hot and perfectly crisped on the outside. After we devour the hushpuppies we look for something else to dip in the to-die-for butter. The greens work just fine.

Jackie’s corn hushpuppies

There are times when I want to go no further than an appetizer because I don’t think the meal can get any better than that. Sometimes I am right. Fortunately, not this time.

My entree is Amish chicken with Oaxacan mole, sweet potato tamale, and green beans. I expect a chicken mole to be flavorful and this does not disappoint. There is perhaps a touch too much sauce, but it’s so good it is easy to forgive. The spice is just right- not overpowering and not timid. The chicken is wonderfully moist. I am not a fan of the sweet potato tamale, however. I find it rather dull. Of course, this means I now have something to do with the extra sauce.

Jackie’s chicken mole

My son’s only entree option is the crispy Japanese eggplant, forbidden rice, tofu, bamboo and green curry, which actually needs to be adapted since the green curry is made with shrimp. They prepare the dish with mint pesto instead. It is a beautiful presentation. My son finds the dish satisfying but since he isn’t the biggest eggplant fan he is fairly neutral about it overall.

Jackie’s eggplant

I’m just happy that my latest visit to Jackie’s is one that will bring me back again. It makes for a perfect pairing with the beautiful AFI Silver Theatre and the new Fillmore.

I have come a long way from my days of lo mein and sweet and sour chicken- clearly not in miles but definitely in dining diversity and sophistication. Happily Silver Spring has evolved right along with me.

Jackie’s Restaurant, 8081 Georgia Avenue, Silver Spring, MD
#38 Washingtonian‘s 100 Very Best Restaurants 2011
My rating (on a 1-5 scale): 3.9

Been There/Eaten That review of 8407 Kitchen Bar

Filed Under: American Film Institute, Jackie's Restaurant, MD Dining, Silver Spring dining

When Tweeters Meet at America Eats Tavern/ Minibar

December 16, 2011 By Lori Leave a Comment

@BareNakedCritic: Two food bloggers meet. Oh, Twitter aren’t you funny. xx @foodobsessed6

———————

My husband and I are at José Andrés restaurant America Eats Tavern with another couple. The husband is a fabulous home chef, who I will refer to from here on out as Chef S. We are seated a few feet away from Minibar by José Andrés, which is a six-seat restaurant housed in the same building as America Eats. At Minibar, according to the website “each bite is designed to thrill the senses by pushing the limits of what we have come to expect, and what is possible from food.” Unfortunately what is possible from food is nearly impossible when it comes to getting reservations.

On the car ride down to the restaurant I check Twitter (my husband is driving). Someone has posted that they have scored a last minute Minibar reservation. Lucky person. I don’t think about this again until later in the evening.

I assume that most DC diners are familiar with Chef José Andrés. He is an awarding winning chef and restaurateur. This year he was named the Nation’s Most Outstanding Chef by the James Beard Foundation. Chef Andrés does DC proud with his group of restaurants including Jaleo, Zaytinya, Oyamel, Minibar, and the temporary America Eats Tavern which was originally slated to close at the beginning of 2012 but has recently been extended through July 4, 2012.

America Eats Tavern is a history lesson in food, with a menu that showcases the origins of each dish. The restaurant is a partnership with an exhibit at the National Archives called “What’s Cooking Uncle Sam?”

We are excited to try America Eats, but to be seated close enough to see the action at Minibar is essentially torture. It is a little difficult to concentrate on our own experience. But we try.

Our first bites of food are biscuits that are served with a plate of two artisanal cheeses. A real miss. Not only are the biscuits not warm, they are outright cold. We glance longingly at Minibar.

Things pick up after that. Chef S starts with shrimp ‘n’ Anson Mills grits. He admires the shrimp for its freshness, and the fact that it doesn’t taste like iodine.

America Eats shrimp and grits

I begin with boneless Buffalo chicken wings. They are definitely tasty and beautiful to look at. I particularly like the dot of homemade blue cheese on top, and the crunchy exterior is just right. However for $12, I would appreciate more wings.

America Eats Buffalo wings

My husband begins with vermicilli prepared like pudding, “the grandfather of today’s mac and cheese.” The crusty top is nice and the flavor is good, although he doesn’t find it terribly exciting.

America Eats vermicelli prepared like pudding

When it comes time to order from the meats and fish portion of the menu, I struggle. I am somewhat put off by the prices. Short ribs at $32, lobster Newberg at $58, and jambalaya which can only be ordered for two people at $44. No way, Jose! This would be perfect if I could order a single portion. I ponder my options.

My husband’s only choice as a non-meat, non-shellfish eater, is blackened croaker with turnip greens, although they have to hold the greens because they include pork. (It should be noted that there are plenty of options in the soups and salad portion of the menu.)

This is an impeccably fresh, perfectly prepared piece of fish, nicely accented by Paul Prudhomme’s blackened seasoning.

America Eats blackened croaker

Chef S and his wife each order BBQ beef short ribs with Hoppin’ John, which is black-eyed peas and rice. The meat is charred on top and deliciously tender, with a satisfying smoky flavor in the sauce.

America Eats BBQ short ribs

I have a difficult time selecting my main course. The server, who has a completely indifferent attitude towards us, is noting my struggle. What I really want is the jambalaya for two. He dully suggests that if I order the jambalaya I’ll have plenty to share, plus leftovers. I am encouraged by my husband and friends and so I go for it.

It is certainly a generous portion of food. But the only thing that distinguishes the dish is some finely chopped and barely cooked green peppers and onions, which adds a layer of texture. It comes with a small bowl of Cajun spices, which I sprinkle on top. My friend thinks the extra spice isn’t necessary but I don’t mind the added heat. Still there is nothing special about the dish. I am not expecting anything comparable to what is being served a few feet away from me at Minibar, but I am expecting more than this.

America Eats jambalaya (not the entire portion)

For dessert we order pecan pie and key lime pie. I don’t eat the pecan pie but word is that it’s a good one. The key lime pie is deconstructed and absolutely lovely to look at. What there is of it tastes good. Chef S admires the foam, which he says “holds up well.” We all agree however, that what we really want is to bite into an actual piece of pie.

America Eats key lime pie

America Eats Tavern has a fun atmosphere and an interesting concept. Chef S knows his food, and he’s expressing satisfaction with most of the dishes. I agree, although the jambalaya doesn’t live up to what one would expect from the nation’s most outstanding chef. What leaves our party of four a bit cold, however, is the service. It’s unenthusiastic and detached, and that puts a damper on everything. We all agree that the prices are high, but if the total experience was better we wouldn’t really mind.

Throughout the dinner we are continually glancing over to see what’s up at Minibar. We are so close that we ask someone how he likes it without leaving our seat. He gives a thumbs up. After dessert I get up and ask how he and his dining companion managed a reservation. “Last minute,” he says. I suddenly remember the tweet I saw earlier. Indeed the woman he is with appears to be tweeting at this very moment. I grab my phone and see that @barenakedcritic is tweeting about every course. “Are you barenaked?” I say. “I follow you on twitter!” “Who are you?” she asks. “I’m foodobsessed6.” She quickly scrolls down the list of people she follows on Twitter. She follows me too! We may have stumbled on something that could be adapted for a meet-cute moment in a movie.

I am so excited about the random meet-up with @BareNakedCritic that I leave the bag containing my leftover jambalaya under the table. I have enough for a hearty lunch remaining. I don’t realize this until we’ve been in the car for ten minutes. I am thoroughly distressed. My husband calls the restaurant and they look for the bag. They tell him it has been tossed. I get on the phone to express my dissatisfaction. How could they toss my food after only ten minutes, particularly because the server and I had discussed the leftovers during the meal. They take my number and say they’ll look again. Yeah, right.

Ten minutes later someone calls and tell me they will make me a single portion of jambalaya to go if I come back down to the restaurant. I am well out of the city at this point, I tell her. I’ll be back downtown tomorrow, can I come get it then, I ask? She actually says yes. This really is above and beyond.

I return to the restaurant the next day and the manager could not have been nicer. I am guessing that it didn’t hurt that I tweeted my loss and subsequent appreciation to @AmericaEatsTvrn. At lunch on Monday, I eagerly savor every bite of the replacement jambalaya. I text my friend (wife of Chef S) about the resolution of the leftovers I left behind and she replies “Wow. That is impressive. Leaves a good taste.” Exactly.

P.S. Speaking of José Andrés, I recently had dinner at Jaleo in Bethesda and thoroughly enjoyed it. In fact, since I often say there is nowhere decent to dine in Bethesda, I can now eat my words. Jaleo is a great option.

America Eats Tavern, 405 8th Street, NW, Washington, DC

My rating (on a 1-5 scale): 3.3

Filed Under: America Eats Tavern, DC dining, Jaleo, Jose Andres

NYC: Experiencing the Highs of Anita Lo’s Annisa

December 12, 2011 By Lori Leave a Comment

Being in Manhattan has a way of making me lose all sense of reason. What is it about this city? Perhaps it is the endless choices of foods from the fascinating to the frivolous to the fantastic. As soon as I arrive my tastebuds rev up for adventure and my pace quickens considerably.

I have my blog to thank for bringing me to NYC last weekend. A friend passes my blog link on to her sister-in-law who happens to be the first cousin of one of my oldest friends (and I am not referring to her age- she is younger than me). We met in Hebrew school and were inseparable from fourth grade through sometime in high school. That’s going back a long, long ways. We’ve stayed connected but haven’t seen each other in at least fifteen years. She lives in Connecticut. But when she sees my blog she sends me an email to tell me she has an apartment in New York, and asks if I want to join her for an eating adventure.

Of course this appeals to me on so many levels. I love reconnecting with old friends. And it goes without saying that I’m looking forward to a weekend of NYC dining.

I don’t have to spend hours researching where to have dinner on Saturday night. We’re not going to the theater, which means we are not geographically restricted. I watched Chef Anita Lo compete on “Top Chef Masters” and I was impressed with her fortitude and her cooking style. She immediately comes to mind when I think about where to eat. A google search leads me to Annisa in the West Village. I read this on the Annisa website: by combining flavors inspired by her Asian roots, her travels, and seasonal influences with her classic French technique, Lo creates a persuasive, yet disarming, menu that exudes excitement and zeal. A Zagat rating of 28 and a Michelin star rating clinch it for me.

Chef Anita Lo www.annisarestaurant.com/people.htm

What attracts me even further to Annisa is a review in New York magazine, particularly this part: Lo seems to have let the old superstar-chef concerns drop away. She’s not worried about expanding her brand, or chasing trends, or pleasing hordes of riotous eaters in Vegas-size dining rooms. The result is an experience that strikes that delicate (and increasingly rare) balance between modern style, classic technique, and pure, old-fashioned gourmet pleasure. Yep, this is right up my alley.

A 9:30 pm reservation is all I am able to secure, which in DC would never fly with my husband and friends with whom I normally dine. In New York, however, this isn’t a problem. There’s lots to see, do, and eat. A late-afternoon cupcake at the Little Cupcake Bake Shop tides us over.

As interested as I am in tasting food prepared by Top Cheftestants (Masters or otherwise) I am always concerned that I am not really tasting their food. I am delighted to see Chef Lo emerge from the kitchen to chat with someone at the bar. My friend is wondering if I am going to go over there, or ask to speak with her. This is not out of the realm of possibility. But since I have not yet had a morsel of food, I decide to stay silent since I can’t yet say anything more than I’m a fan of her television appearances.

Too bad, as moments after she returns to the kitchen I become a serious fan of her food. We are served an amuse bouche of smoked salmon mousse, cornichon, lemon, and chives. It is a burst of flavor. My bouche is definitely amused.

I have an appetizer of eggplant with two Turkish chilis in yogurt water. The eggplant on the outside of the dish has a beautiful smoky flavor and the eggplant with the skin on is both spicy and a bit sweet. The yogurt provides a nice cool contrast to the spices. It’s a phenomenal dish.

eggplant with two Turkish chilis in yogurt water

My friend begins with cauliflower gnocco with hazelnuts and sheep’s cheese. (Gnocco is singular for gnocchi.) I don’t take a bite so I am not going to even attempt to describe it. Hopefully it’s enough to say that my friend thoroughly enjoys the dish.

cauliflower gnocco

My entree is pan roasted farm chicken with sherry, white truffle, and pig feet. I don’t plan to order this initially, as I picture little pigs feet surrounding the chicken. But our server tells me this is a signature dish and the potentially-offensive item is pureed in the sauce. I take a leap of faith. Fortunately, no little piggies in sight. The sauce is rich and creamy, and the most distinctive flavor coming through is chanterelle mushrooms and leeks. The chicken is moist with a layer of crispy skin.

Annisa chicken

My friend orders a dish which is a strong contender as my own entree: broiled Spanish mackerel with garlic fried milk, satsumaimo (Japanese sweet potatoes) and Korean chili. She is bowled over by an array of flavors that meld together surprisingly well. Yes, I am a little envious as I am always drawn to Asian flavors. But I only have to go back to my own plate of food and recognize that it is pretty brilliant in its own right.

The atmosphere at Annisa is sophisticated and elegant, but not stuffy. The wait staff, who work in a restaurant that earns them the right to be snooty, thankfully are warm and friendly. You can tell that they really admire the food they are describing. At one point during the evening my friend can’t find her earring and a few of the staff make an earnest – and endearing- attempt to help in her search.

https://www.facebook.com/annisarestaurant

Sometimes all the right elements come together to form a perfect evening. I am on a high because I have reconnected with an old friend and am able to pick up exactly where we left off so many years ago. I’m in one of my favorite cities in the world. I’m eating at a beautiful, top-notch restaurant, and the food is more than meeting my expectations. For me, it doesn’t get much better than this.

Of course our eating is not limited to a single dinner. On Sunday I want to go to Doughnut Plant because the owner was a judge on Top Chef Just Desserts. It’s a distance from where we are staying, so first we stop at Ess-a-Bagel. These are seriously some of the best bagels I’ve had in the city.

Then we go to Doughnut Plant where I’ve already scoped out the creme brulee doughnut. There’s also tres leches, and carrot cake, and blueberry. I have to try these flavors as well. Creme brulee is the standout. Some advice- don’t save any until you get home. The ones I ate right away were far better than the ones I “took home for my husband.”

creme brulee doughnut

After the bagels and the doughnuts is the trip to Chelsea Market where I eat a hot dog with kimchi from Dickson’s Farmstand Meats, get a sandwich from Lucy’s Whey for the ride home, and weigh myself down further with olive oil and spices. Let there be no doubt. When I say that Manhattan makes me lose all sense of reason, I really mean it.

Annisa, 13 Barrow Street, New York, NY
My rating (on a 1-5 scale): 4.8
Zagat rating: 28 (out of 30)

Doughnut Plant, 220 W 23rd St, (between 7th Ave & 8th Ave) and 379 Grand St, New York, NY

Filed Under: Annisa Restaurant, Around the US, Chef Anita Lo, Chelsea Market, Doughnut Plant, New York City restaurants

Liquid Assets- Dining in Venice (and Porto Venere and Florence)

December 8, 2011 By Lori Leave a Comment

It’s a wet and rainy night, which seems like the perfect time to complete the final installment of my Italy blog posts. Our final few days of our vacation include a visit to the water-logged Cinque Terre and the beautiful city surrounded by water…Venice.

Day 9

We are scheduled for a day trip out of Florence to Cinque Terre. Sadly two of the five towns have been virtually destroyed by floods a couple of weeks earlier, and one is not reachable by land at this point. We are on a tour with four other people, including two delightful guidance counselors from New Jersey who are in Italy for work. (Who knew that being a high school guidance counselor had such great perks?)

The tour company has found an alternate location for part of our tour, which is the port town of Porto Venere. Splendido! We have lunch with our new friends at Trattoria la Marino da Antonio, where we sit outside directly under a palm tree. What an unexpected pleasure! This meal is not as much about the food as it is soaking in the beautiful atmosphere. Not that there is a thing wrong with the food.

la Marino da Antonio: shrimp with pasta

picture-perfrect Porto Venere (my husband thought I got this picture online. He took it.)

On our last night in Florence I have planned on a traditional Florentine meal. It is impossible to read about food in this area without a mention of bistecca alla fiorentina. It is steak served on the bone, rubbed with olive oil, and grilled. There are, of course, varying opinions about where to find the best bistecca. I have done well so far with the recommendations from knowledgeable Italian food writer Elizabeth Minchilli. She says the best place to go is Trattoria i Due G, so that is where we go.

Trattoria i Due G is an old-fashioned kind of a place. It also feels a little worn. But the steak, as promised, is spot on. It’s tender, flavorful, and plentiful. I do my best to make a dent in the hunk of meat on my plate. My husband has cod, which is a bit overcooked. It is not his favorite meal of the trip but I feel as if dining in Florence would not have been complete without our visit here.

Trattoria i due G: bistecca alla fiorentina

Day 10We take a train and then a water taxi to our final destination, Venice. Since it is last on our itinerary, Venice has been on the short end of the stick in terms of my focus on dining. I try to book our dinners in advance through the hotel, but I do not hear back from them. This is not to disparage Locanda Orseolo, which is a unique destination with lovely rooms and staff who go out of their way to be helpful during our stay (if not terribly so in advance). But we end up having no lunch or dinner reservations for our first day, which is enough to send me into a panic.

The concierge, sensing my discomfort, is trying hard to be helpful. He doesn’t know who he is dealing with. I am a little difficult to mollify at this point. He suggests we try a typical Venetian meal of chichetti for lunch, which can be found in small local pubs. What you get is basically a plate of small appetizers, including vegetables, olives, and various kinds of fish. It’s definitely a must try meal for lunch.

Osteria Antico Dolo: chichetti

For dinner the concierge recommends a Beccafico, which is a Sicilian restaurant. We accept his advice, since the only other option I have in mind is already booked. Plus it is a Sunday night and many places aren’t open. I have some nagging doubts. Why are we eating Sicilian food in Venice?Before dinner we decide to have an aperitivo at the hotel. I have prosecco with a drop of balsamic vinegar, which I have been told by our food tour guide from Florence, is a hot new drink. It definitely makes for one pretty cocktail.Our meal at a Beccafico is my least favorite of the trip. I order pasta with pesto. There is too much pesto in the dish, and the flavors are heavy and one-note. I also have swordfish with ricotta, which is overcooked. I can only eat a few bites of the pasta and the server seems upset. I ask him to leave it and I promise to eat more with my fish, rather than eat it separately as is the Italian custom. “It’s an American thing,” I say, to appease him. I have another bite or two because I am honestly concerned about insulting him.

a Beccafico: swordfish and pasta with pesto (after my dishes are combined)

My husband has sea bass, which he describes as not very flavorful. Not every single meal can be fantastic, but of course I’m feeling a bit let down and blaming myself for not doing my homework.

Day 11

It is our last day and we have a busy agenda in Venice. Museums, churches, and the Jewish ghetto are on our agenda. We must interrupt our sightseeing to take a water taxi to Burrano to have lunch at Trattoria Da Romano. Anthony Bordain has filmed an episode of “No Reservations” here. I am eager to follow in his footsteps. We take a 45 minute water taxi ride to a small village best known for lace-making. The restaurant is known for fish risotto. According to Bourdain, “there is great risotto and then there is truly great risotto…this is truly great risotto.” Thanks, Anthony. It’s pretty great risotto. Although I manage to disappoint another waiter by only ordering risotto and a salad and no main course. My husband is delighted with his plate of grilled anchovies. Yuk.

Trattoria Da Romano: risotto

Trattoria Da Romano: anchovies

It is time for the last supper. So to speak.

Our final dinner in Italy is at Ristorante Al Covo which specializes in fresh seafood. According to Frommer’s: For years this lovely restaurant has been deservingly popular with American food writers, putting it on the short list of every food-loving American tourist. It is true that the restaurant is teeming with tourists, but in this case it really doesn’t matter.

We decide to live dangerously, so we each order a three course meal. It is time for us to eat like Italians. This is the perfect place to order more food than usual. The flavors are delicate, showcasing the freshness of the fish. When food is prepared correctly, as this is, it’s not so difficult to manage eating every bite. The memories of the delicious flavors that linger from dinner at Al Covo are the best possible ones on which to end our journey.

Al Covo

Al Covo: my first course squid ink pasta with spider crab

Al Covo: my husband’s salt cod in a clay pot with potato, prune and rosemary

Al Covo: chocolate cake with spicy chocolate sauce

Our departure from Venice may be routine for some, but not for us. A water taxi picks us up at the hotel at 5:00 am. The taxi arrives, the concierge opens a window onto the canal, and our luggage is handed to the “driver.” We climb out of the window and into the water taxi. I am relieved that I can actually fit through a window after my no-holds barred eating adventure. Arriverdeci, Italia. I hope to be back some day.

Trattoria La Marina da Antonio, Marina, 6, Portovenere, Italy

Trattoria i Due G, Via B. Cennini 6/r – 50123 Florence, Italy

A Beccafico,San Marco 2801 | Campo Francesco Morosini / Santo Stefano, 30124 Venice, Italy

Trattoria da Romano,Via Galuppi, 221 | Burano, 30012 Venice, Italy

Ristorante Al Covo, Castello 3968, 30122, Venice Italy

Previous Italy Posts
Roman Holiday, Part 1 (rome)
The Long and Winding Road, Italy Part 2 (Tuscany)
Indulging in the Temptations of Florence

Filed Under: a Beccafico, Florence Italy dining, International Dining, Ristorante Al Covo, Trattoria Da Romano, Trattoria i Due G, Trattoria la Marino da Antonio, Venice dining

Indulging in the Temptations of Florence

December 1, 2011 By Lori 5 Comments

Here is a recap, if you are just tuning in. My husband and I recently spent eleven days in Italy. We ate, saw the sights, and ate some more. Previous posts covered Rome, followed by Tuscany.
This is the third installment, which will focus on Florence. Venice will be next.

Day 6

For the next four nights we are in Florence. We stay at Mr.My Resort, which we discover in a book called “Special Places to Stay” by Alastair Sawday. It’s certainly an odd name for a b&b. According to their website “in the XVIII century, together with the surrounding buildings, the Grand Duke of Tuscany converted the building into a lunatic asylum. Traces of this past are still present in the rooms and also in the basement, where the delirious people were kept.”

This may not be a ringing endorsement for the place, but somehow I am not put off. It is a truly unique establishment, and obviously we fit right in.

our room at Mr.My resort Florence Italy

The hotel is not too far from the enticing leather vendors outside the Mercato Centrale where we head on our first day in the city. Food momentarily takes a back seat to shopping. I am overwhelmed by the selections. By the end of the day I overcome my feelings of confusion and purchase a leather jacket. It takes me a few more days of perusing dozens of market stalls before I can make a decision on a leather bag and a variety of scarves.It’s actually a nice diversion away from food, although it isn’t long before my attentions return to dining.

Mercato Nuovo

Our first dinner in Florence is at Trattoria Garga, which I have identified on a website called www.Sally Bernstein.com I have no idea who Sally is, but she mentions inventive cuisine and says it is “an event to eat here.” My advisers from the Chowhound site, where I ask for verification of my dining choices, do not dissuade me. Happily, two of the dishes stand out among the best of the entire trip.

We begin by sharing a dish referred to as Tagliolini Magnifico. It is pasta with orange and lemon rind, mint-flavored cream, and Parmigiano-Reggiano. It is truly magnifico!

Trattoria Garga 1/2 portion of Tagliolini Magnifico

My main course is veal with avocado cream and truffle oil. This is a dish so rich and delicious, that the taste lingers on to this day.

Trattoria Garga veal

My husband has swordfish with capers, tomatoes, and oregano. He declares it the best swordfish he has ever eaten.

Trattoria Garga swordfish

After we return home there is a post on Chowhound from someone who comments that their meal at Trattoria Garga was not particularly good. I’m glad that I saw this after my return as it probably would have led me to change venues. An important reminder…one person’s negative experience can always be another person’s positive one.

Day 7
It’s a hectic day with visits to two of Florence’s most famed museums the Uffizi Gallery and the Galleria dell’Accademia. I have not pre-selected a location for lunch, but of course that doesn’t mean I am going to settle on just anywhere. I have downloaded an app called Eat Florence by Elizabeth Minchelli (which I highly recommend) and I can select our location and find places to dine nearby. It is not necessary to be online to access the application, which is particularly useful since I have disabled my internet access.

I am looking for a place called ‘Ino, which specializes in gourmet paninis. It is on a small side street that is easy to miss, but is an absolutely perfect place for a quick sandwich. I have a paninni with vegetables and olive tapenade on the most wonderful bread imaginable. Another plus- a glass of house wine is included. I know I have much more religious art ahead of me but I can’t pass up free wine. My husband wisely resists. Yes, I’m a little sleepy when we get to see Michelangelo’s David, but it’s worth it.

‘Ino display case

I change our dinner plans from a place we have been warned away from. Instead, we choose to dine at Trattoria Baldovino, which is owned by the Gardners who are also the proprietors of Villa Bordoni which is where we stayed in Tuscany. They don’t do much in the way of steering guests to their Florence restaurant, aside from mentioning it casually. We have come to this decision on our own. When we arrive the staff are surprised that the Gardner reservation is for us rather than their owners. Do the owners really need to make a reservation at their own restaurant? That surprises me!

We are starting to tire of multi-course meals. We decide to share an Italian salad and I have free range chicken marinated in oil and lemon and grilled. It sounds like something I eat at home on a regular basis. Did I make the right choice? Fortunately, the chicken is moist and flavorful, and really is a refreshing change.

Trattoria Baldovino chicken

Trattoria Baldovino

Day 8
Our third day in Florence has remarkably been left unplanned. Catherine from Villa Bordoni has suggested a food tour, and directs us to Florence for Foodies. I can’t believe we haven’t thought of this sooner.

We meet our guide at the piazza near the Mercato Centrale. At first I am a bit disappointed when I discover it is only my husband and I on the tour. But this quickly turns to delight as I realize this can be a personalized food tour. What could be better? Nathalie, our guide, is knowledgeable, warm, and engaging. Her English is impeccable. My husband asks where she has learned to speak the language so well and she replies “by watching episodes of Sex and the City.” I love this woman!

Our tour of the market includes tastes of cheese, olives, and a visit to Nerbone which is a popular place known for prepared food including soups, stews, pasta, and tripe. I hesitate, but my kosher-keeping husband encourages me to try lampredotto, which is a typical Florentine peasant dish, made from the fourth and final stomach of a cow. The meat is tender and quite tasty!

Nerbone: lampredotto

We spend a good bit of time sampling olive oil, vinegar, and other tasty Tuscan treats from a purveyor called Conti. We purchase fresh olive oil, bruschetta, salt with truffles, vinegar, and truffle oil. It is here that I realize despite the smell, I am deeply in love with truffles. Sadly, as we are departing Italy it is discovered that my husband and I have each packed these purchases in our carry-on luggage. The fresh olive oil and bruschetta do not escape discovery at security, and are tossed in the trash. Such a tragedy- although the truffle products are so small that they escape confiscation.

We also are taken to a well known spot for gelato. I have come to Italy with high expectations. So far, I have had gelato that’s quite good, but I haven’t been blown away. A few times I seek out specific well-known places, but somehow each time I can either not find the place, it’s closed, or am too tired to walk any further. So I am feeling a bit gelato-frustrated. Nat takes us to Gelateria Perche’ No!
We’re talking about a gelato place that has been around since 1938 using the freshest ingredients, so they know gelato. We try at least six different flavors and I will say the gelato is quite good. But it doesn’t quite live up to the dream.

gelato in Siena

I learn something very important on the tour. It is uncool to drink cappucino at any time other than breakfast. Real Italians drink espresso in the afternoon. From this point onward, I am an afternoon espresso drinker, like it or not. It’s a good thing espresso cups are small.

I have really been looking forward to dinner at Osteria Personale. It’s been described as having “beautiful presentations of local cuisine” and Elizabeth Minchella has commented on my inquiry on Chowhound that it is one of her favorite new places in Florence. We arrive at 8:30 pm, which is a stretch for us tired tourists. I love the decor but there is absolutely no one else in the entire restaurant. Awkward. Fortunately, the restaurant begins to fill as time goes on. This is definitely a don’t miss if you are in Florence. We have a tasting which includes five dishes and a dessert.

Osteria Personale breast duck carpaccio with grilled radicchio, pomegranate emulsion and smoked ricotta cheese cream

Osteria Personale: olive oil mashed potatoes with goat cheese and scalded vegetables

Osteria Personale “naked” ricotta and sheep milk cheese ravioli with porcini mushrooms, calomint and redcurrant

Osteria Personale dessert (I forget what this is)

Florence is a bad influence on me. I alternate between completely wanting to indulge myself with shopping and high-fat foods, and trying to show some restraint. Which do you think wins? I am on vacation after all.

Trattoria Garga,Via del Moro 48, 50123 Florence, Italy
‘ino,7r via de’ Georgofili, Florence, Italy
Trattoria Baldovino, Via di San Giuseppe, 22 50122 Florence, Italy
Florence for Foodies, Florence food tour
Osteria Personale, Borgo San Frediano 167 / r 50124 Florence, Italy