A Dream Come True at The Majestic

Thanks to CityEats, I recently held a contest for a dinner at The Majestic  in Alexandria. The contest winner was Maya Barak, who creatively described her dream dinner at the restaurant.  Her entry was so good that I asked if she would follow up by writing a review of her real dinner at The Majestic.   Here’s her review.  I think you’ll agree that her win is well-deserved.

Guest post by Maya Barak

Begin dream sequence.  It’s a cool December evening set atop a hazy sky.  We roll through Old Town Alexandria, passing by quaint little shops with brightly colored awnings and row after row of softly glowing trees, branches bare except for the dozens of tiny twinkling white lights delicately looped around them.  As we turn the corner we’ve arrived.  But this isn’t a dream.  This is my Dream Dinner at The Majestic.

Walking through the doors, the restaurant is nostalgic-chic, a slightly more casual version of Rick’s Cafe straight out of Casablanca. For just a moment I imagine dining tableside with Ingrid and Humphrey.  Back in the real world our eyes move from the darkly lit cool blacks and grays of the bar to the soft golden hues of the dining room.  As we glide into our seats both our waiter and The Majestic’s manager, who is extremely pleasant, welcome us and offer to help us select a bottle of wine.  Next comes the fresh baked bread and butter.  “It’s delicious,” my companion tells me as he takes the first bite.  I’ll have to trust him as I can no longer indulge in gluten-filled treats like freshly baked bread, cookies, or cakes.  He manages to down the whole half-loaf before we’ve even placed our order, so it must be great.

Sipping on a crisp white wine, we place our order: The Royal Fixe, please.  The Royal Fixe is The Majestic’s answer to restaurant week year round.  For just $35 we are treated to an appetizer, main course, and dessert of our choice.  We attack the menu, carefully selecting dishes in order to try more things.  The final list makes our mouths water:

Potato Croquette with a Fried Green Tomato, Fried Egg and Melted Onions

Wild Mushroom Soup with Red Pepper Relish and Creme Fraiche

Butternut Squash Ravioli with Brown Butter Sage Sauce

Red’s Veggie Plate with a surprise assortment of farm fresh vegetables

We hold off on desert–we’ll see what we’re in the mood for when the time comes.

Waiting for our food, we finish our first glass of wine and move on to the second, easily slipping into a state of complete comfort facilitated by the high-class homey feel the Majestic exudes.  We chat softly and people watch, pondering whether or not the couple  sitting to our left is on a first date–this seems like a perfect date-night jaunt.

The appetizers arrive, well, the potato croquette arrives.  We share it while waiting for the soup.  It is unbelievably rich yet crisp and bright, with just a splash of heat from the shockingly orange sauce drizzled around the plate.  Sunshine colored yolk seeps from the fried egg as the first fork hits.  We each build the perfect bite: egg, crunchy whipped potato, and green tomato.  This is our favorite dish of the night.  The mushroom soup follows.  It is hearty, earthy, and perfect for a chilly night, but perhaps better accompanied by a crusty baguette and a warm fireplace.

Majestic cafe potatoes and tomatoes

The Majestic tomatoes & potatoes

Out come the entrees.  As soon as the butternut squash ravioli hits the table, the sweet aromatic scent of brown butter and sage hits my nose.  Heaven.  Although I can’t try the dish in its entirety, unable to delight in the large fluffy pillows of whipped butternut squash before me, my companion offers up a tasty alternative.  Carefully cutting open a piece of ravioli, he manages to remove the filling, graze it across the plate (guaranteeing an ample coating of brown butter sage) and offers it to me.  The filling and sauce are so good they could (and should!) be served as a side.  Red’s veggie plate is monstrous, piled high with yukon gold whipped potatoes, fried green tomato, green beans with shallots and thyme, brussels sprouts with onions and thyme, sautéed mushrooms with thyme, and thyme peas and tomatoes in a light red sauce.  Notice anything odd about the list of items included on the plate?  Could it be, perhaps, that everything is covered in thyme?  Now don’t get me wrong, I love thyme and tend to think it goes with anything (veggies, pizza, eggs, etc.).  That said, I don’t love when the only thing I can taste on my plate is thyme.  However, aside from too much thyme, the vegetables were well-cooked and the potatoes were hearty–like the kind your grandmother might make at Thanksgiving.

Majestic cafe veggie platter

The Majestic Red’s veggie plate

Stuffed to the brim, we soldier on to dessert.  We opt for creme fraîche gelato supplied by Docelzza (so you know it’s good, and if you haven’t tried Dolcezza’s Argentinian gelato, churros, and alfajores stop reading this right now and go get some!) and the Cheese Lover’s Board with an assortment of American artisanal and farmstead cheeses and housemade accompaniments.  The gelato is tasty and refreshing, a subtle finish to a heavy meal.  The cheese board disappoints.  Now both my companion and myself are big cheese fans.  In fact, I’m what you might call a (hardcore) cheese snob–if it comes already shredded or wrapped in plastic, it’s not real cheese in my eyes.  While there were a few different cheeses on the board, both soft and hard, we could only stomach one of them.  The housemade accompaniments–some jam and crackers–were good.

Majestic cafe cheese platter

The Majestic Cheese Lover’s Board

Walking out of The Majestic, we are completely satisfied (despite a few snafus here and there).  The food is comforting and homey, the ambience is classy yet cozy, and the experience is not pretentious in the least (which can be a problem when dining in Metro DC).  What’s more, we have ample leftovers to take home.  In short, dining at The Majestic is like dining at your grandmother’s house–that is if your grandmother was Greta Garbo and her house was a chic art deco restaurant dating to 1932.

 majestic cafe

 

The Majestic, 911 King Street, Alexandria, Virginia

The Majestic on Urbanspoon

Taking criticism to heart at Equinox

I am a sensitive person. When criticism comes my way, I take it very personally. A negative comment is examined and reexamined, until I can figure out how to address the issue if at all possible.  A reader recently took me to task for attributing a movie quote incorrectly. “Wow! If you cant even get a movie quote right, I’m not sure if I trust your review.”  My heart sinks upon reading this.  I am so sensitive that when I get an unfollower on Twitter (and I know just who they are, thanks to unfollow), I agonize over what I have said to make them leave me. As someone who writes critiques that aren’t always 100% positive, it should be easier for me to field criticism.  I guess it really is easier to dish it out than to take it.

On a recent visit to DC’s Equinox  I can’t help but fixate on The Washington Post critic Tom Sietsema’s recent one and a-half star review.  It is filled with criticisms, many of them directed at recently-appointed Executive Chef Karen Nicolas.  In April Chef Nicolas was named by Food & Wine as one of the 10 Best New Chefs for 2012.  According to Sietsema “The magazine’s tastemakers must have hit the restaurant, which enjoys a perfect location near the White House, on one of its best days. Since Nicolas has steered Equinox, I’ve had four meals there: the first so underwhelming that I thought she needed more rehearsal time.”  Ouch.

Equinox is owned and operated by one of DC’s most respected chefs, Todd Gray.  Gray has earned numerous awards including the Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington’s 2011 RAMMY Chef of the Year, along with five nominations for the James Beard Foundation’s Best Chef Mid-Atlantic Award. I know this review has to sting.

I am not wary about dining at Equinox, despite the review.  One of my dining companions is a local wine writer (Grapelines).  He knows Chef Gray and his wife Ellen Kassoff, and is a regular at Equinox. I trust that we will be treated royally and that our meal will be top-notch. I’m more interested in how the review has affected business and staff morale. More about that later.

There are a variety of appealing options on the menu, but eventually every one of our party of six decides to order the vegetarian tasting menu.  It has universal appeal to a group that includes three non-meat eaters: beet salad, pumpkin soup, pasta with brussels sprouts, honey and spice roasted eggplant, and pumpkin pave for dessert.  However, when it’s time to place our order, I hesitate.  I am encouraged by my friends to venture in a different direction, for the sake of the blog. “I do love lamb,” I say somewhat wistfully.  “Go for it,” says the group nearly in unison. I consent, as long as they agree to share my order of house-made gruyere gougères.

Sietsema comments that he finds the gougères heavy.  This must have been addressed since the review, because they couldn’t be any lighter.  With a touch of garlic, rosemary and sea salt, the gougères are an indulgent beginning, particularly since they follow the unexpected delivery of a basket of flaky cheddar biscuits.

Equinox Gougères

Equinox gougères

The first course of the vegetarian tasting menu is citrus marinated beet salad.  I’ve ordered a portion for myself, since the dish initially drew me to the tasting menu and I don’t want to be left out.  Ricotta beignets, green olives, and pomegranate seeds accessorize lightly dressed micro watercress.  The female diners share a twinge of guilt about the ricotta beignets in the salad.  More pastry filled with cheese.  This meal is feeling very decadent and we haven’t gotten very far.  But, there is no place for guilt when enjoying such a polished and elegant meal.

Equinox Beet Salad

Equinox Beet Salad

I linger over my beet salad, while the rest of the group delves into a complex roasted pie pumpkin soup with poached quince, hazelnut crumble, and curry leaf.  It is a perfect late autumn soup- not too thick or too sweet.  There is a beautiful layering of textures and flavors.

Equinox pumpkin soup

Equinox pumpkin soup

The next course for the veggie group is hand torn malfatti pasta with brussels sprouts, mushrooms and roasted chestnuts.  There is agreement that the flavor is noteworthy, but the pasta noodles are clumped together, which makes it difficult to eat.  Regardless of the awkward texture, the ingredients blend to form a cohesive dish.

Equinox Pasta

Equinox Pasta

I am only slightly self-conscious as a generous portion of lamb arrives.  Thyme roasted Pennsylvania lamb loin is perched atop rainbow swiss chard, caramelized eggplant, and sweet garlic jus and studded with olives.  The lamb is tender and beautifully prepared, but it’s the charred eggplant with honey and seven spices that provide wonderful bursts of sweetness.

Equinox lamb loin

Equinox lamb loin

While I am savoring the lamb and eggplant, my companions are enjoying a similar dish (minus the lamb). Honey & spice roasted eggplant features many of the components that are on my plate and then some. Stellar dishes…both of them.

spice eggplant

Equinox honey & spice roasted eggplant

The pumpkin pave with cinnamon ice cream, hazelnut streusel, and pumpkin seed brittle looks incredible, and I am assured that it is.  However, I am steering away from anything hazelnut, even though my husband and friends insist the hazelnut is subtle.  They love it.

Equinox Pumpkin Pave

I opt for warm quince crisp.  It’s the only misstep in an otherwise stellar meal. The flavor is lacking (my friend thinks something is off about it, but I don’t agree) and there’s nothing to hold the dessert together.  On the other hand, the coconut sorbet is quite good, so at least I’m left with some sweet satisfaction.  All in all we have enjoyed an excellent meal with impeccable service, exceeding our expectations.

Equinox quince crisp

Equinox quince crisp

I am left wondering about that Washington Post review.  Was Tom Sietsema totally off base? A few days after our dinner, I have an opportunity speak with owner Ellen Kassoff about how things are going post the Post review.

“Every review is an opportunity to review ourselves, who we are, and what we are doing.  While criticisms can be harsh, we welcome them,” she says.  She believes that Equinox is held to an extremely high standard because of her husband’s length of experience.  It was difficult for him to hand over the title of Executive Chef.  Sietsema agrees saying the appointment of Nicholas in that role ”suggests a veteran chef admirably willing to let go of some ego.”

Following the review Kassoff said that she felt some initial anger, but subsequently they took an opportunity to reexamine what they ultimately wanted for their restaurant.  As a result, Chef Gray has reclaimed the kitchen.  The menu has gone back to  its roots (more hearty and rustic food) and Gray is doing more of the cooking and working to mentor Nicolas.

The good news for Equinox is that loyal customers haven’t left.  They seem to be more loyal than ever. Kassoff says Equinox is having  one of its best years and the love and support they are hearing from their customers are helping staff through what was initially a very tough time.  Kassoff notes that it is easy to get distracted by what’s written in print and online.  “We just have to get back in the kitchen.”  Reviews and online comments can be combative and cantankerous but as Kassoff says “It’s just dinner.  People really just need to be nicer to each other.”

I am surprised by this conversation, as I truly expected a blasting of the critic rather than a story about taking criticism to heart.  No one likes getting a bad review. But you have to admire restaurant owners who use it  as an opportunity to move forward, rather than dwelling on the negative.  A lesson I hope I can apply the next time someone throws some disapproval my way.

Equinox, 818 Connecticut Avenue, NW, Washington, DC

Washington Post review

Washingtonian’s 100 Very Best Restaurants 2012

Equinox on Urbanspoon

the perks of dining with a wine writer

the perks of dining with a wine guy

Suna…not later

THIS RESTAURANT IS NOW CLOSED

I can usually tell how I really feel about a restaurant when I think about if and when I want to return. Sometimes I say “been there, eaten that” and move on.  Other times, I haven’t even finished my meal when I start plotting a comeback (hello Izakaya Seki and Little Serow).  The newly-opened Suna next to Eastern Market falls into the category of ….take a look at the headline.

The atmosphere at Suna is low-key- no bells and whistles,  just rustic woodsy charm. The small space feels exclusive, and one could feel at home in jeans or dressed up.  There is no artwork on the wall, no lavish adornments, no fancy lighting.  It’s sparse, but at the same time intriguing.  And while I am not against being wowed by decor, there is something about sparse that feels good.


The Suna concept, like the decor, is fairly simple.  It does, however, require explanation.  There are two options: a four course dinner for $48 and an eight course dinner for $78 (which seems like a bargain these days).  The menu lists main ingredients:  root vegetable, kampachi, shellfish, dashi custard, pork, fowl, apple, and hazelnut.  If you opt for four courses, you have a couple of choices to make.  I decide that for this first visit, I want to try everything. My husband’s dietary needs can be accommodated for eight courses, which means substitutions or omissions for the shellfish, pork, and fowl courses.  Our son is a vegetarian (no fish) so when he dined at Suna a few days earlier, he is told they can only offer four courses.   He is perfectly satisfied with the variety and portion sizes.  In fact, his rave review has me revved up with some high expectations.

Chef Johnny Spero is young (26) but he has some serious credentials, having cooked at Komi, Toki Underground, and Copenhagen’s Noma, which is one of the most highly regarded restaurants in the world.  It’s no wonder that there there is already positive buzz for Suna.

Once you make the four course vs. eight course decision, you can sit back and relax.  Our server seems excited to take us through the experience and Sean Alves, the general manager/sommelier checks on us periodically and adeptly guides us on wine selections. For a restaurant that’s less than a month old, it’s particularly satisfying to benefit from the staff’s enthusiasm and competence.

An amuse bouche of caraway cracker with egg emulsion and pastrami spices is effective in setting the stage for what’s ahead. The caraway and pastrami flavors are strong and enticing.

The first course is a true revelation.  It’s a combination of root vegetables (beets, celery root, grated parsnip, kohlrabi) served raw, pickled, or candied and topped with an arugula granita.  Dig deeper and a beautifully sweet brown butter sauce lies beneath the surface. I don’t need to look any further than this dish for a reason to return to Suna.

Suna Root Vegetable

Mackerel with husked cherries, pickled elderflower, and charred pureed eggplant is a well-balanced combination of sweet, smoky and sour.  I am ready to lick the plate.  Speaking of plates, they are all hand-crafted by local artist Amber Kendrick, and contribute to the “fine dining inspired by nature” theme of the restaurant.

Suna mackerel

Dashi custard with scallop, sea bean, and pickled mushrooms is an inventive and very tasty dish. It’s rich, smooth, and satisfying.  The vegetarian version omits the scallop, which doesn’t detract from the overall effect.

suna dashi custard

Suna dashi custard

The guinea hen competes with the root vegetable as something that will beckon me back to Suna.  Flavors linger long after the meal is over. The hen is moist and tender, and there is a crispy piece of skin on the side to add texture.  It’s an earthy dish with its accompanying  confit with farro and bulgar wheat, along with sunchokes.   The vegetarian version is minus the hen and confit, so I can’t imagine that it can be quite as good, but I hear nothing but admiration for the dish.

Suna guinea hen

The shellfish course is my least favorite.  It’s a nori cracker with mussels and Peruvian purple potato dumplings.  I find it way too fishy and think the dumpling lacks any oomph.  This is coming from someone who doesn’t like mussels at all unless they are seriously disguised, so I may not be the best judge.  An opposing opinion comes from Chef Justin Bittner of Bar Pilar, who writes on www.donrockwell.com: ” I thought it awesome, the potato dumpling had sort of a Korean rice stick texture. Anyway I’m pretty sure they must make a broth out of mussels, reduce it and cook more mussels in it, I found it heady and rich. Only complaint, could’a had 2 more bites.”

Suna mussels

Suna mussels

I would have preferred the vegetarian option of pumpkin plate with black pudding/yogurt/pine nuts.

Suna Pumpkin

Suna Pumpkin

I am too full to fully enjoy braised pork with kale and daikon.  It’s too bad because tender pork and crispy kale with tahini sauce really appeals to me.  Don’t get me wrong.  It’s not that I don’t eat any of the dish.  I just can’t soak in the flavors to the extent I would like.

Suna pork

Suna pork

My palate perks back up for one of the desserts.  Charred apple ice cream with pressed apples, cilantro stems, and malted milk crumble.  It’s saltier than it is sweet.  It’s perfect.  The second dessert is aerated hazelnut parfait with cocoa and hazelnut butter.  I detest hazelnut, but I decide to try it.  Nope.  I really do detest hazelnut.  My husband is more than happy to eat my share.  The server learns of my hazelnut aversion too late.  He tells me that next time they can offer another option.

What I like best about Suna is its lack of pretention.  The emphasis is on showcasing great ingredients, rather than putting on a show.  The focus is on the plate, where it should be.  (I stole this line from our server, but I was thinking the same thing).  The eight course menu at Suna is perfect for a long, leisurely, special-occasion meal.  It’s the four course menu that will bring me back here.  Definitely Suna rather than later.

 Suna, 214 7th Street, SE, Washington, DC

Washingtonian Inside Look

 

Suna on Urbanspoon

Happy Hanukkah: Holy Pumpkin Fritters

I am terrible at making desserts.  Really, really bad.  Baking is a precise skill, and somehow even when I try to make a brownie mix it doesn’t come out well.  My husband is much more willing to experiment on the sweet side. We are having company for Shabbat dinner and while my guests are usually happy to bring dessert, this time I hand off the assignment to my husband.  I don’t give him any parameters. He finds a recipe on one of our favorite blogs Kosher Like Me.  Holy Pumpkin Fritters are perfect for the night before Hanukkah, which is a holiday traditionally celebrated with fried latkes and sufganiyot.

 From Wikipedia:  Sufganiyot are widely consumed in Israel in the weeks leading up to and including the Hanukkah holiday.At Hanukkah, Jews observe the custom of eating fried foods in commemoration of the miracle associated with the Temple oil. While potato pancakes (latkes or levivot) are also eaten in Israel, sufganiyot are considered a more “Israeli” Hanukkah treat.

Holy Pumpkin Fritters actually come from another wonderful blog Dinner in Venice, which features Kosher, vegetarian, and gluten free recipes.  Many of the recipes are accompanied by an explanation of the origin of the food or Jewish custom, which means that you get some education along with your recipe.

We were ready to make our fritters (okay, not really we…) with pureed pumpkin from our freezer. The pumpkin didn’t freeze well and we ended up with a mealy mess.  Fortunately, we had butternut squash on hand.  The “pumpkin” fritters came out light, airy, and not overly sweet.  Simply delicious.

 

Holy Pumpkin Fritters

6 servings

Frittole di Zucca Barucca by Alessandra Rovati www.dinnerinvenice.com

the recipe makes more fritters, but we ate a few before snapping the photo

Ingredients

  • 1 lb pumpkin or butternut squash, cleaned and diced small
  • 2 eggs
  • grated zest of 2 oranges
  • ¾ cup of sugar and a pinch of salt
  • 1 and ½ cups flour
  • ½ package (8 gr) baking powder
  • ½ teaspoon cinnamon
  • 1/3 cup Raisins or Sultanas (optional)
  • 1/3 cup pine nuts (optional)
  • 1/3 cup candied etrog or lemon (optional)
  • Olive oil or peanut oil for deep-frying, at least 3 cups or more
  • Confectioner’s sugar for decorating

Instructions

  1. Plump the raisins in a cup of warm water.
  2. Chop the candied etrog or lime or lemon.
  3. Place the diced squash in a large platter and cover almost completely, leaving a small opening for the steam to come out, and microwave on high for 10 minutes or until very tender.
  4. Beat the eggs in a food processor with the sugar, salt, cinnamon, orange zest; add the cooked squash and process until smooth.
  5. Drain and dry the raisins, and add them to the mix.
  6. Transfer to a large bowl and gradually add the flour (sifted with the baking powder), using an electric or manual whisk.
  7. In a frying pan, heat the olive oil to frying temperature (you can test it by dropping a small piece of bread in the oil: if bubbles form around the bread, the temperature is right).
  8. Take the batter with a tablespoon, filling it to about ½, and push the batter into the oil with your index finger or a second spoon.
  9. Fry in small batches until golden all over, turning to cook evenly. Remove with a slotted spoon and transfer onto a platter lined with several layers of paper towels.
  10. Sprinkle with confectioner’s sugar and serve warm.

 

 

Liftoff for Matchbox 14th Street

’tis the season for new restaurant openings.  In the last few weeks, DGS Delicatessen, Wildwood Kitchen, Hanoi House, Suna, and Woodward Table have all opened their doors. Joining this group is a new Matchbox on 14th Street.  This is the fourth area location for Matchbox.  And while this may put it into the category of a local chain, it has a very un- chain like feel, particularly when it comes to the interior design.  (Here are some photos from EaterDC.)

The newest Matchbox is in a former auto showroom/bowling alley/nightclub.  The space covers three floors and has a rustic feel, with lots of wood and exposed brick.  That could describe any number of DC restaurants, but how many of them can say they have two tables floating in mid-air?  I envy the diners that get to sit here.

I am a guest for a media preview, and my main objective is to experience menu items that are unique to the new location, particularly since I am a fairly frequent patron of Matchbox Rockville. Our server is eager to point out what’s new and different.

We begin with pizza, because when it comes down to it Matchbox brands is a “vintage pizza bistro.”  My go-to at Matchbox Rockville is “Fire and Smoke.”  I end up with a pizza that’s not new to Matchbox or unique to this location but it’s new to me.  Veggie pizza with roasted garlic, pesto, oven-dried tomato, and artichokes appeals to me because well….  I love artichokes. Throw in a thin, crispy pizza crust and I’m a happy diner.

Matchbox veggie pizza

I stick with my original plan and select an entree that’s making it’s debut on 14th street.  Braised beef short ribs with turmeric vegetables, fingerling potatoes, and coconut curry sauce catches my eye immediately. It’s a delightful dish! The meat is perfectly tender, and the creamy curry sauce is full of flavor.  While I can’t finish every bite of the plentiful portion of beef, I do manage to eat all of my vegetables.  The roasted vegetables coated with just a touch of the sauce are too good to leave behind.  My Matchbox visits usually tend to more casual fare, so this dish really is a pleasant surprise.

 

Matchbox Shortribs

My husband has chosen fish and chips.  The panko crusted haddock is light and crunchy and the tartar relish, dotted with capers, is a creative touch.  He finds the fries a bit too oily, but overall says the dish is quite tasty.

Butternut squash cheesecake with candied butternut squash and whipped cream is a lovely autumn dessert, and less guilt-inducing than a standard cheesecake. It’s the kind of dessert that can be enjoyed after more than a couple of bites, because it’s not overly sweet.  I eagerly devour my half.

 

Matchbox is a nice addition to the burgeoning dining scene on the U Street Corridor.  With a 25-foot bar, wine on tap, two pizza ovens, and eventual outdoor seating with a fire pit, I imagine that 14th Street will be a happening spot, matching the popularity of its other locations.  As a suburbanite, I’m much more likely to stick to the Rockville location if I’m in a Matchbox mood.  But then again, sitting at one of those floating tables could certainly provide an elevating experience.

 

Matchbox 14th Street, 1901 14th Street, NW, Washington, DC

 

Matchbox 14th Street on Urbanspoon

A recipe for success? Richard Blais’ roasted beet salad

Whenever I go to someone’s house for dinner, I am inevitably asked the question: “Are you going to blog about this meal?”  I always smile (hopefully sincerely and not an annoyed kind of smile) and say no.  Obviously no one thinks the answer to this question is going to be yes. But I have decided that there is room on my blog for an occasional recipe.  I have added a page just for recipes, which will contain an index of some of my favorites from home cooks, local chefs, and more.  So next time I’m asked that ubiquitous question, the answer will now be “maybe!”

The first entry comes from Richard Blais, one of my favorite Top Cheftestants.  This is a holiday recipe he created using Dannon Oikos Greek yogurt.  Enjoy!

Roasted Beet Salad with Orange, Avocado & Dannon® Oikos® Greek Nonfat Yogurt Dressing
By Richard Blais

Richard Blais roasted beet salad

Salad
2 cups beets, roasted and peeled (or canned)
½ cup orange wedges
½ cup avocado, diced
2 tbsp almond slivers, salted
Dressing
2/3 cup Dannon Oikos plain Greek nonfat yogurt (or use a 5.3 oz. single serve container)
1 tsp fresh ginger, minced
2 tbsp scallion, sliced
2 tbsp cilantro, chopped
1 ounce rice wine vinegar
1 tbsp jalapeño, diced
1 tsp cumin, ground
1 tsp coriander, ground
1 tbsp honey
2 tsp sesame
Instructions
1. Combine salad ingredients (beets, orange and avocado) in one container. Set aside.
2. Mix ingredients and spread the dressing over beets, orange and avocado.
Yield
4-6 servings
Oikos® is a registered trademark of Stonyfield Farm, Inc. and used under license by The Dannon Company, Inc .

 

 

DGS Delicatessen… thanks for the memories

My memories of Jewish food go back to Friday night dinners at my grandmother’s house in Detroit.  One of my favorite dishes was kasha varnishkes.  It didn’t have a whole lot of flavor, but there was something about the dish that I absolutely loved.  Steaming hot matzah ball soup, gefilte fish with horseradish, and pickled tongue in a savory tomato sauce also made regular appearances at family dinners.  (Although, I lost my taste for tongue years ago.)

When I was nine years old we moved to Northern Virginia where Jewish food wasn’t so easily attained.   If I wanted a corned beef sandwich I usually had to wait until family trips to South Florida.  They always included a visit or two to the sadly, now-shuttered Rascal House.  My favorite things about the Rascal House were the bottomless plates of sour pickles, pickled tomatoes, and the basket of assorted rolls.  I always made a mad dash for the salt sticks and pumpernickel rolls. I remember my parents proudly telling me that occasionally they sat separately at the counter,  just so they could each get their own bread basket.  I guess that my food obsession is an inherited trait.

Nowadays if I want a corned beef sandwich, I head over to the Corned Beef King, a Montgomery County-based food truck which now has a carryout location in Olney. Their sandwiches are pretty darned good.  So when I hear that DGS Delicatessen is open in DC’s Dupont Circle, I am not necessarily jumping up and down, but I am interested. What intrigues me most is that the Jewish-style deli is not opposed to reinventing classic dishes.  I am all for tradition, particularly Jewish tradition, but when it comes to food I usually don’t mind updates.

I’m here with a my husband and a friend who grew up in Long Island.  I’m anxious to hear her thoughts, because New Yorkers are notorious for saying that nothing compares to the food back home.  (don’t tell them this, but in general I happen to agree).

Before we even sit down I know some of the dishes that I want to order.  Kasha varnishkes is a must.  The French fries with Zaatar spice sound appealing as well.  I’m less certain about which way to go in terms of a sandwich.  Corned beef or pastrami?  My friend says she’s willing to share a sandwich. I like this idea as it will leave room for dessert.  We agree on a corned beef Reuben.  Now all I have to do is select a drink.

The Bridgetown Apple Royale strikes my fancy with its autumn flavors:  Dupont Calvados, Pyrat Rum, spiced apple, lemon, and maple bitters.  I have chosen wisely, as the spice counteracts the sweetness.  It’s a perfect way to take the chill off a cold night.

DGS pays homage to Jewish food, but it’s not Kosher.  There are plenty of menu items available for the Kosher-keeping crowd, which includes my husband.  Sandwich options include salmon pastrami, white fish salad on challah, and an eggplant Reuben, which he orders.  He thinks it is a good sandwich, although the bread is a little over toasted and the eggplant a tad bitter.

The corned beef Reuben is traditional, topped with gruyere, a fairly mild sauerkraut (which I think is a good thing), and Russian dressing.  The double-baked rye bread is nice and crunchy. We agree that the meat, which is corned in-house, is worth the trip from the suburbs.  My friend washes her meal down with a Dr. Brown’s cream soda, a nod to her childhood deli memories.  My husband is a Dr. Brown’s cel-ray kind of guy.

DGS Delicatessen Reuben

I am a big fan of the DGS reinvented version of kasha varnishkes, which incorporates Middle Eastern accents such as olives, harissa, and preserved lemon.  It’s reminiscent of my grandmother’s version, but with tons more flavor.  Portions come small ($8) and large ($15). The small is plenty  for three to share as a side.

I like the Middle Eastern twist on the fries, which are accompanied by a roasted garlic yogurt dip, although a sprinkle more Zatar would have made them even better.

Sandwiches are accompanied by a house-brined pickle slice, but one slice is not nearly enough for me.  A pickle plate is $5, which may not sit well with some.  But I believe the sour pickles and pickled carrots are necessary accessories to a deli sandwich.  I would much prefer that they be included with the meal, but it’s not worth skipping based on principle.

DGS Delicatessen Pickle Platter

I’ve left room for dessert, as blogger Jenna Golden from Eat More, Drink More has tweeted that the babka bread pudding is a real wow and not to be missed.  My freezer is almost never without a babka and I always find bread pudding irresistible, so this is a no-brainer.  I would have been content with one dessert, but my husband orders DC style cheesecake topped with pomegranate seeds.  The DC cheesecake is smooth and creamy and the pomegranate seeds are a nice touch, but it lacks flavor.  My friend doesn’t have to say it: DGS would have been better off going with a New York style cheesecake.

DGS Delicatessen Pomegranate Cheesecake

The babka bread pudding with cinnamon ice cream is a far better ending to the meal.  I love the reinterpretation of babka, which combines warm cake with cold cinnamon ice cream melting into gooey bits of chocolate.  I’m grateful for my earlier restraint in eating only half a sandwich.

DGS Delicatessen Babka Bread Pudding

 

Our service here is flawless, particularly when you consider they’ve barely been open a week.  As we’re eating a young employee walks by, then stops and informs my friend that there is a price tag hanging out of her shirt.  Is it okay if she tucks it in for her?  Wow.  DGS Delicatessen not only has food that conjures up childhood memories, they serve it up with a modern take on a Jewish mother.

 

DGS Delicatessen, 1317 Connecticut Avenue, NW, Washington, DC

 

DGS Delicatessen  on Urbanspoon

No ifs, ands, or butts…Izakaya Seki knocks me off my feet

My iPhone is the most essential tool I own, particularly when it comes to blogging.  I write all my notes in my phone, and if my husband is not dining with me it also serves as my camera. Last week, my telephone crashed, and with it my notes and photos about a recent dining experience at the fairly new Izakaya Seki.  This is disappointing, because I cannot share the pictures of my food, and more importantly I am unable to relay some of the details of the meal.  My four friends who dined with me aren’t much help in recalling our dishes, and the online menu is only a partial clue as it doesn’t reflect daily specials. I can say, however, that this meal knocked me off my feet…literally.

I consider myself fortunate to have a group of friends who every couple of months are willing to hop on the Metro and traipse downtown to the restaurant of my choice. I am particularly grateful at this time of year, when there’s a chill in the air and it gets dark before we even set out on our journey.  I am eager to try Izakaya Seki, which Todd Kliman of The Washingtonian considers “one of the year’s most exciting debuts.”  Translated, izakaya means Japanese pub or sake shop.  I am not a sake fan, and I’m not particularly attracted to Japanese food.  Nevertheless, I am compelled to check this place out.  Nestled in a neighborhood near the U Street corridor, it would be easy to overlook Izakaya Seki if you don’t know about its existence. 

Our evening starts out on the shaky side. Seating  is extremely limited and therefore only parties of eight or more can make reservations.  Initially we have eight people, but our party has since dwindled to five.  I haven’t called the restaurant to let them know this,  mostly due to a lack of time.  The woman who greets us at the door is really not amused.   She is clearly pondering whether she must seat us.  Shaking her head in dismay, she reluctantly leads us to the upstairs dining room.  At 6:30 there are plenty of tables available, so I try not to feel too guilty. It doesn’t take long for my focus to turn towards the the food, and away from our annoyed greeter.

Once I can relax, I am comforted by an unassuming room that is appealing in its simplicity.

www.urbandaddy.com

We begin our meal with a selection of rice balls with fillings such as pickled plum, pickled vegetable, and salted cod roe. We appreciate their uniqueness, although I would have preferred  a touch more filling. Nonetheless, it’s a fun start and we’re eager for more.

Salmon tataki is wonderfully fresh and flavorful.  In fact, towards the end of the meal when we decide to order one more item, we come back to this dish.  We want a few more bites, even though there are so many other tantalizing options on the menu.

Assorted roasted mushrooms are appropriately earthy, and far more interesting than I imagined.

photo from Yelp

Only two of us are meat-eaters. We share kalbi, which are barbecue beef short ribs.  The meat is tender and full of flavor.  We enjoy the dish, although we’re envious of our friends who are savoring mero fish grilled with miso.   Todd Kliman describes this as “good as heat-treated fish gets, with a sweet succulence and a delicacy of taste that make each bite feel like a discovery.”

Fried rice with garlic chips is a real treat,  delivering more complexity than expected.  It’s at this point that I feel my enthusiasm about Izakaya Seki building.  My friends are equally pleased.  I am always relieved and subsequently delighted when my dining companions enjoy my restaurant choice as much as I do.

fried rice with garlic chips (my only photo that survived)

Tuna sashimi is another winner, but this is where the details get really fuzzy. The last dish that I recall clearly is udon noodles with dipping sauce.  We like the presentation, but some think that the cold slippery noodles don’t live up to the other dishes we’ve sampled.  The flavor is certainly more subtle than the others, but I like it just fine.  I am finishing my meal and at the same time thinking about how quickly I can get back here.  I am hoping that it’s very, very soon.

We head out into the cold and towards the Metro that will carry us back to the suburbs. I am about to take a seat when the train lurches forward, hurling me (or at least the left side of my butt) onto the arm rest.  It hurts.  A lot.   For the next couple of days I actually have to lean right when I sit in order to avoid the pain.  The good news is that along with the discomfort is the reminder of a meal that gets better the more I think about it. Next time I dine at Izakaya Seki, however, I think I’m going to drive.

Izakaya Seki, 1117 V St NW  Washington, DC

Washington Post Tom Sietsema fall dining guide review

Washingtonian Todd Kliman review

 

Izakaya Seki on Urbanspoon

Vino Volo Opens in Bethesda

Guest Post by Todd Gardner

Sometimes my omnivorous wife wishes she could eat in two places at the same time. She had a girls night out dinner planned on the same night that she had been invited to a pre-opening event at Vino Volo, a new wine bar/restaurant in Bethesda. She asked me, her trusty photographer, to fill in. Here are my first impressions:

Vino Volo, a wine bar and restaurant fixture at Dulles and BWI airports has opened its first free standing location in The Bethesda Row at 7243 Woodmont Avenue adding a wine store to its tasting room here. According to CEO Doug Tomlinson, the larger footprint allows Vino Volo to offer a greater variety of wines with a selection of over 150 brands. “People have been asking how we can get to Vino Volo without a boarding pass. Now we are finally doing it here” said Tomlinson.

Vino Volo CEO Doug Tomlinson

The wine menu offers wine by the bottle or the glass. The flight of three tastes is a great value for the adventurous wine aficionados. The menu offers a variety of small plates as well as a selection of premier meats and cheeses. Gourmet pizzas and salads fill out the dining offerings.

Vino Volo is in a perfect location for that light pre-theater or after theater meal and libation.  It is strategically located within walking distance from the Regal and Landmark Cinemas as well as the Roundhouse Theater. The attractive Napa Style tasting room will surely lure you to stay for one more taste!

Vino Volo Interior

I am trying hard not to overstep my responsibilities to document my wife’s food obsession. I will gladly slip back into the background until she needs to multi-blog once again!

 

Vino Volo,  7243-7247 Woodmont Avenue, Bethesda, MD

 

Seriously Good Vegetarian Food at Thai X-ing

A pescatarian, a vegetarian,and a flexitarian* go out to dinner.  No this is not the beginning of a joke.  It is dinner out with my husband, my son, and my son’s girlfriend.  Where to go where dietary considerations aren’t going to be a big deal?  Thai X-ing in the Shaw neighborhood of DC has a completely vegetarian menu on Sunday nights. And if you’re like me and don’t fall into one of those “ian” categories, you’ll find that you aren’t missing a thing.  In fact you may come to the startling conclusion, as I did, that the omission of meat can be refreshing.

We arrive at the restaurant, located in a townhouse, and are directed back outside to a basement entrance.  Once inside, it feels as if we have just wandered into an intimate dinner party where we don’t know anyone.  The room has a dark and homey feel.  Most everyone looks up from their food to check out the new arrivals, and then quietly return to their meals.  It feels slightly awkward, but not off-putting.  We are seated next to the tiny open kitchen.  For once, I am not over researched.  I truly have no idea what to expect, and I am intrigued.

Thai X-Ing Kitchen

A server who speaks English with a heavy Thai accent brings us a bowl of taro chips.  There is no menu.  The only clues about what is to come are obtained by peering over to see what’s happening at the surrounding tables.  We don’t ask many questions, partly because the server is saying very little to us.  We don’t even think to mention food restrictions or preferences.   Somehow I feel that questioning the ingredients or asking what lies ahead in our meal would categorize us as guests exhibiting rude behavior.  GF has a mild allergy to peanuts, but says that she is fine with eating around them.  I’m hoping we don’t have to interrupt our meal for a trip to the hospital.  That would be a bad thing on so many levels.

Bowls of steaming lemongrass soup with mushrooms, onions, tomatoes, and cilantro are placed before each of us.  The soup begins a journey through classic Thai flavor combinations…. sweet, sour, salty, and bitter.  Having no idea what lies ahead, I am faced with a decision about whether to finish the entire bowl. I throw caution to the wind, as it is too good to leave behind.

Thai X-ing Lemongrass Soup

A refreshingly cool papaya salad arrives next.  This is quickly followed by pumpkin curry, which we later unanimously decide is our favorite dish.  There is a delicate balance between the sweet and the heat, and the remnants of the creamy sauce make a wonderful topping over rice.

Thai X-Ing pumpkin curry

Black mushroom with ginger and tofu features flavors that are sharp and distinct, with textural contrasts that add interest.

Thai X-Ing Black Mushrooms

Pineapple and potato in a red curry sauce provide another opportunity to enjoy the expert balance of sweet against spicy.  The red curry has a touch more fire than the yellow.  It is a happy burn.

Thai X-Ing Pineapple Curry

We are given a break from the heat with a delightful dish of tofu, bean sprouts, and mushrooms.  It’s the perfect dish to alternate between bites of the hotter food.

Thai X-Ing tofu and bean sprouts

We now have an array of dishes on the table, and I am perfectly content.  But when noodle pad se yu is placed before us, I realize how welcome the noodles are as a complement to the saucy curry and vegetable dishes. I would prefer this to be served in the middle of the meal rather than the end, but it’s a minor detail.

Thai X-ing Sum Tum

My son hopes that the meal will conclude with the popular Thai dessert of mango and sweet sticky rice.  His comment is met with the aptly timed delivery of the cool and comforting dish.  It’s a perfect contrast to the collection of strong flavors that have preceded it.

The restaurant’s answering machine is on a small table behind us.  Throughout the meal the  phone rings, the machine picks up, and we are treated to the audible message… over and over again.  It is annoying, but on the other hand it serves to accentuate Thai X-ing’s offbeat charm.  I feel as if I’ve just been treated to a home-cooked meal and for $40 per person, I feel as if I’ve had a bargain to boot.

Our vegetarian feast leaves me pondering a word to describe my own eating habits.  Something that ends in “ian” would be ideal.  The word “foodarian” comes to mind. A Google search leads me to an abandoned blog titled “Chronicles of a Foodarian” along with a made up definition:  foodarian (fōō’dâr’ē-ən)  n. A person who participates, advocates, or supports the consumption, preparation, or production of high-quality, fortifying, earth-sustainable, and by no omission exquisite food regardless of its derivation from plant or animal.

I’ll take it, particularly since it’s so much more palatable than the word “foodie.”  A pescatarian, a vegetarian, a flexitarian, and a foodarian go out to dinner.  No joke… just a really great meal at Thai X-ing.

 

*A semi-vegetarian or flexitarian diet is one that is mainly vegetarian-based with the occasional inclusion of meat products

Thai X-Ing on Urbanspoon

Questions or comments?
Send an email to lorisue6@gmail.com