Washington DC dining

Daikaya’s Stairway to Heaven

June 6, 2013 By Lori 4 Comments

My friends and I initially enter Daikaya the wrong way. The relatively new two-in-one Japanese restaurant has separate entrances. One door takes you to a wonderful outpost for ramen noodles. The other leads you to a staircase where you head upstairs for an izakaya (small plates) menu. We climb the steps of the izakaya, prompting my BFF to ask whether we’ve been here before.

“It looks so familiar,” she says.

“You’re thinking of Izakaya Seki,” I reply, although the similarity is more about Japanese small plates than the decor.

“No. I’m thinking of a place like this with steps, but when you get to the top it’s much smaller inside.”

“Oh, you mean Toki Underground,” I say.

While there are definite similarities, including the fact that all three restaurants are putting out terrific Japanese food, Daikaya has its own merits.

First are the touches of whimsy that attract our attention. Menus are stapled inside Japanese fashion magazines. The walls are covered with beautiful swatches of fabric. Best of all is a menu that has so many appealing pescetarian and vegetarian options, that we don’t hesitate to go fully meatless so that everyone in our group of five women can share dishes.

When I am at a restaurant with small plates, I hope to start out strong. If the first few dishes are good, there is a pardon for something that’s less than stellar. Thankfully, our first two dishes at Daikaya hit it out of the park. Mizuna salad with burrata tomatoes and dashi gelee, as well as tuna poke dotted with sesame and scallions, have bold flavors that make us sit up and take notice.

Daikaya mizuna salad

Grilled avocado with housemade ponzu, fresh wasabi, and nori salt sounds fairly simple. The smoky rich flavor astounds us. Two of these, please.

Daikaya avocado

Shishito pepper with gouda cheese and togarashi keeps us on our toes, as some bites are spicier than others. Our server has properly prepared us, so we’re ready for the heat.

Daikaya shishoto pepper

Miso salmon has us mimicking the “Saturday Night Live” character Linda Richman cooing about Barbra Streisand. (think early 1990′s) “It’s like buttah,” we say. I’m grateful we’ve decided to double up on most of our dishes, so we can thoroughly enjoy the tastes. This one absolutely merits savoring.

Daikaya miso salmon

Another favorite – and we declare each dish that comes out our new favorite- is warm napa cabbage salad with apples, kewpie-yogurt and salmon roe. This one captures my heart, with the warm cabbage pairing beautifully with tart apples and salty squishy roe.

Daikaya warm cabbage

Zucchini with lemon and thyme on skewers are perfectly grilled and well suited to round out our selection of dishes. But we’re still not quite satisfied. We want more food. We order a round of onigiri rice balls, which are filling, if not not the most interesting way to end the meal. Another order of tuna poke brings us back to our original state of delight.

There’s much of the menu left for us to explore, and we vow to return in the near future. Our ascent to Daikaya has taken us into a wonderful world of exotic, and I daresay heavenly flavors.

Daikaya, 705 6th Street, NW, Washington, DC

Washington Post review

Filed Under: Daikaya, DC dining Tagged With: Daikaya, Daikaya Izakaya, DC dining, Japanese restaurant DC, Washington DC dining, Washington DC restaurant reviews, Washington Post restaurant review

A dressing down at Osteria Elisir

May 19, 2013 By Lori 2 Comments

My friend has a scientific approach to Italian restaurants. On his first visit, he orders something classic but fairly simple as a benchmark. If it passes the test, he will return for food that’s more complex. As someone who considers every restaurant meal an opportunity for exploration, I don’t necessarily relate to this benchmarking approach. But I absolutely respect it.

We recently dined with our friend and his wife at the newly revamped Osteria Elisir. The formerly high-end restaurant has gone from dressy to casual in food and decor, and dropped their prices accordingly. The new iteration feels more approachable, and the menu has lots of appeal, including a list of “special dishes to indulge.” I appreciate the effort to retain some out-of-the-box dishes to reflect the talent and skills of Chef Enzo Fargione. We are curious to see how the changes play out.

Osteria Elisir starts us off with a quite decent bread basket. There are optional accompaniments including a salt and olive oil tasting tray, and a variety of spreads. Tempting but we skip it, opting instead for crostini with gorgonzola, candied celery, and aged balsamic. The candied celery is a unique twist that turns a good crostini into great.

Osteria Elisir crostini

Roman artichokes are deep fried with lemon, mint, oregano, and creamy anchovy garlic sauce. The anchovy adds subtle flavor, and the lightly fried artichokes are crisp and light.

Osteria Elisir roman artichokes

The dish that has me instantly extolling its virtues on Twitter is stuffed squid with spicy salami and shrimp, sweet garlic saffron broth, braised leeks, and green olives. In a recent Washington Post review, Tom Sietsema calls this “a breakout star in this production.” We couldn’t agree more. This goes on my list of favorite dishes in DC.

Osteria Elisir stuffed squid

My entree is black Spaghettini with seared tuna strips, green olives, capers, roasted garlic, and pepperoncino. The tuna is plentiful, and the pasta has just the right amount of bite. I would have preferred a little less oil, but overall I like the taste.

Osteria Elisir black spaghettini

My husband declares his dish a winner. Rigatoni with creamy burrata, smoky mushroom ragu, and rosemary is a pasta dish with pizzazz.

Osteria Elisir rigatoni with burrata

My friend wants his benchmark dish to be pasta with meatballs and sausage. He orders pasta and asks if it’s possible to have half an order of meatballs and half sausage. He is told no. But he can order pasta with meatballs and pay extra for a side of sausage. So really, it is possible.

Osteria Elisir spaghetti fileto di pomodoro

I am enjoying my pasta until I realize that our friends, who have been sharing our enthusiasm over the appetizers, are now suddenly quiet. I glance over at a sad meatball that is burnt and dry, and for the most part inedible.

An order of linguine with little neck clams served Neapolitan style,with basil, spicy pepper, and tomatoes feature clams that are arguably a bit overcooked. Overall there is not much flavor on the plate. This dish, also a benchmark Italian classic, just misses the mark.

Our server is made aware of the meatball issue, which is obvious considering the unappealing offender remains on the plate. She apologizes and removes it. I am somewhat dismayed that there is not an offer to replace the meatball with one that is properly prepared.

A trio of sorbetti completes our meal. These are delivered with a tray of homemade cookies, and another apology. The sorbet and cookies pass the taste test and alleviate some of the earlier disappointment.

Osteria Elisir doesn’t pass the benchmark dish test. On the other hand, the more complex dishes benefit from the extra attention. I’m all for the dressing down of Elisir. Overall it’s a smart move. But if the restaurant wants to pass with flying colors, dressed down needs to be taken as seriously as dressed up.

Osteria Elisir, 427 11th Street, NW, Washington, DC

Washington Post review

Filed Under: DC dining, Elisir Tagged With: Chef Enzo Fargione, DC dining, Osteria Elisir, Tom Sietsema, Washington DC dining, Washington DC restaurant reviews, Washington Post restaurant review

Mintwood Place shines in a growing playground

May 12, 2013 By Lori 1 Comment

There is nothing like a bright and shiny new toy. Even the simplest of toys can be fascinating at first. If there is not enough to sustain interest, however, it’s entirely likely to be tossed aside for the next new thing.

The restaurant scene in DC is currently exploding with new playthings. Le Diplomate, Ghibellina, and BToo all on 14th Street. Del Campo, Daikaya Izakaya, Red Hen, NoPa. The list goes on and on and many more are on the way.*

When contemplating where to make a dinner reservation to celebrate the birthdays of my husband and son, the options are overwhelming. It’s tempting to try something new. But in the end, we return to a place we know and love…Mintwood Place. There is something to be said for familiarity, particularly when our past experiences have been stellar.

Mintwood Place has had its share of acclaim since it opened in 2012. Chef Cedric Maupillier was named The People’s Best New Chef Mid Atlantic in Food and Wine and was a semi-finalist in this year’s James Beard Awards. The restaurant was also a semi-finalist for best new restaurant. Mintwood reviews are consistently glowing. Last year’s shining star is clearly still burning bright.

We begin our meal with cocktails. “Smokin’ on the Bayou” is a potent mix of Benevá Mezcal Añjeo, grapefruit juice, Jack Rudy tonic syrup, and Bitter Truth creole bitters. This goes nicely with deviled pickled eggs. Starters are easy picks for this primarily pescetarian group. Goat cheese & beet mountain pie (we have had this before and will probably order it on every visit to follow). To quote my initial post from last year: The crispy on the outside pie is filled with creamy goat cheese. I was expecting the beets to be inside but instead the pie rests atop sliced beets and lightly dressed butter lettuce. I like the texture and the slow ooze of the cheese as I bite into it.

Mintwood goat cheese and beet mountain pie

Burrata, kale, hazelnut, apple, and tamarind seems like an intriguing if somewhat unlikely blend. That is until we take our first bites. The combination of tart and sweet with the bitter notes of kale is balanced and bright. It disappears off the plate far too soon.

Mintwood kale and burrata

My husband and I are acquainted with Chef Maupillier. After ordering appetizers, I take advantage of this – and the open kitchen – and ask Chef for main course recommendations. I’m vacillating between salmon and soft shell crab. Chef extols the virtues of the fresh salmon with chorizo sauce. I’m not sure if it’s the description or his heavy French accent that makes me swoon. Whatever. I am happy to put the decision-making in his hands.

The salmon is lightly smoked, and topped with spring peas, spinach, vidalia, and a heavenly chorizo sauce. It surpasses my expectations with lively and intense flavors.

Mintwood spring salmon

I have just taken my first bite when a soft shell crab is delivered to the table, compliments of the chef. Oh my. The crab is lightly fried and nesting in a sauce of pickled beets, daikon radish, and cauliflower. The colors swirling on the plate are almost too beautiful to eat. Obviously I get over this.

The birthday boys are engrossed in their own fish dishes. My husband is enjoying seasonal shad filet and roe. The roe is tender, sweet, and salty with a beautiful texture. My son and his GFGF (gluten-free girlfriend) are sharing the salmon (sans chorizo) and Mintwood’s popular whole boneless royal dorade, with braised fennel, and picholine olive.

Mintwood Shad with shad roe

Do we have room for dessert? No. Does this stop us? No. We’re celebrating birthdays! Our sweet tooths are satisfied with baked Alaska, key lime pie, and brownie sundae. Key lime pie wins the vote for favorite, perhaps because it’s the most refreshing.

There is no end in sight to the new restaurants being added to DC’s culinary toy box. This means that area chefs and owners must be on the ball to stay competitive. Chef Maupillier says that he likes to keep his cooking simple, focusing on fresh ingredients. I don’t think the food at Mintwood Place is simple. In fact, Chef Maupillier’s gift is that he really knows how to play with his food.

Mintwood Place, 1813 Columbia Road, NW. Washington, DC

Washington Post review

Washingtonian’s 100 Very Best Restaurants for 2013 review

*List of area restaurant openings from www.donrockwell.com

Filed Under: DC dining, Mintwood Place Tagged With: BToo, Cedric Maupillier, Daikaya Izakaya, DC dining, Del Campo, Ghibellina, Le Diplomate, Mintwood Place, NoPa, Red Hen, Washington DC dining, Washington DC restaurant reviews, Washington Post restaurant review, Washingtonian restaurant review

Food is love…The Inn at Little Washington

March 29, 2013 By Lori 3 Comments

Last fall I attended a farm-to-fork tour of Rappahannock County sponsored by Les Dames d’Escoffier DC . The tour included a visit to the famed restaurant Inn at Little Washington. Chef/restaurateur Patrick O’Connell spoke to the group about his beginnings at the restaurant more than 30 years ago, his connection to local farmers, and how he believes that “food is love.” The goal at the Inn is for guests to enjoy a transformative and luxurious experience, encompassing far more than the enjoyment of fine food. Chef O’Connell is a charismatic speaker, and I am spellbound by his words.

For years I felt I was missing something by not having dined at the Inn. But for maximum enjoyment (i.e. a nice bottle of wine) to dine at the Inn requires an overnight stay, since its Washington, Virginia location is an hour and a half drive from home. This is not just dinner out. It is a commitment of time and money.

But listening to Chef O’Connell speak, I realize that there is no more appropriate place for my husband and I to celebrate our 30th wedding anniversary. Food is love? This is basically the theme for our marriage. Fortunately my husband agrees with the plan, which is probably part of the reason we have been married 30 years. (Not the agreeing with me part but the being okay with spending hundreds of dollars on dinner part. Well maybe both).

Since a stay at the Inn itself is another commitment altogether, with rooms starting at approx. $600 per night, we opt to stay at a bed and breakfast in nearby Sperryville, Virginia.

You don’t sign on for a meal that costs $200 per person before tax, tip, and alcohol without extremely high expectations. It is imperative to suspend any concern about cost. This is about excellence. Inn at Little Washington is #1 on Washingtonian’s list of 100 Very Best Restaurants, four out of four stars from The Washington Post, an almost perfect score from Zagat, a 5-diamond (highest-rating) award from AAA for 25 years running, and too many other acknowledgements to mention. Ask almost anyone who has dined here, and you get a reverent sigh of satisfaction.

Joining us for dinner at the Inn are cousins A & B, who are also celebrating an anniversary. Since their introduction came by way of our engagement party, we agree that a joint celebration is in order.

We begin our evening in a sitting room adjacent to the dining area, where we can soak in the ambiance before we focus on the food. The Inn’s decor is ornate and old-fashioned, with tassles and fringe galore. The immersion in luxury begins.

A closer look at the decor reveals whimsical touches, such as a wooden cow waiting to take a turn as a vehicle for the cheese course. I usually prefer a more modern atmosphere, but it’s impossible to resist the Inn’s charm.

This photo of Inn at Little Washington is courtesy of TripAdvisor

From the moment we are seated, it is clear what the fuss is all about. Employees are well-trained in the art of hospitality and are ready to accede to our every wish. Cousins A & B, who are here for the second time, remark that their previous visit to the Inn felt more dramatic. It’s difficult to replicate the magic of a first time experience. We have no basis for comparison, and are content with service that may lack drama but is not at all short on finesse.

The four course tasting menu has a welcome diversity of options. While some tasting menus present challenges for my Kosher-keeping husband, this is not the case at the Inn at Little Washington. The menu includes fish and pasta that do not require a request for substitutions or omissions.

Our server guides me when my confidence in what to order falters. I am poised for a culinary adventure, and I don’t want to make any mistakes. It doesn’t take long for me to relax and enjoy the parade of breath-taking dishes placed before us.

I begin with carpaccio of herb crusted baby lamb loin with caesar salad ice cream, which provides a shockingly cool and satisfying contrast to the rare meat. It tastes as spectacular as it looks.

My second course is New England day boat scallops sautéed with curried cauliflower, sultanas, and garlic chips. While I have resorted to dishes featuring two of my favorite ingredients, other lamb and scallop dishes I’ve had recently pale in comparison. My only concern is this: when you dine at the top of the restaurant pyramid in terms of flavor, complexity, and presentation, can you subsequently find satisfaction at a lower level? Time will tell. This meal is about the present.

My main course is seared rare tuna crusted with mustard seeds, and layered with foie gras, with preserved lemon puree and a confetti of garden vegetables. I am not accustomed to eating foie gras, but the indulgent ingredient seems appropriate for the occasion. It is a generous portion and at some point I decide to leave some of it behind and focus my attention solely on the tuna.

One of the things I like best about a tasting menu is that I don’t have an internal struggle about dessert. It’s included. I’m eating it. End of story. My selection is cocoa nib Napoleon with caramelized bananas, chocolate mousse, and sorbet with caramel lime sauce. I have again steered towards my favorite flavors (caramel and lime) and have no regrets. The Happy Anniversary message is a lovely, although somewhat expected, touch.

In the interest of time and space, I will not include the dishes enjoyed by my dining companions. Suffice it to say that a magnificent meal was enjoyed by all. Happily, the story of my experience doesn’t end here.

The next morning my husband, who is in the restaurant equipment business, has arranged to work with some of the staff at the Inn. I tag along, because I can’t turn down an opportunity to spend more time here.

We have just eaten a lovely breakfast at our B&B, but when we are invited to sit at the chef’s table and enjoy breakfast before my husband begins his work….how can we refuse? My husband looks uncertain, but I am grinning from ear to ear. Diner’s at the Inn can pay a surcharge on their meal for the chance to sit at the chef’s table and observe the goings on. The surcharge for a Saturday night is $575. While this isn’t a Saturday night, and the kitchen is most certainly more relaxed than during dinner, this is an opportunity not to be missed. A flight of juices, a warm basket of baked goods, fresh fruit, and hot coffee exceed my expectations. When I don’t think it is possible to eat another bite, we are handed a menu and invited to order a breakfast entree. Can I possibly eat any more? Apparently so. A brioche French toast with blackberry sauce is one of the most heavenly dishes I have ever tasted. It’s so light and airy that I can’t imagine it contains any calories at all. At least that is what I tell myself.

The staff are treating us like royalty, although at this point we are not paying guests. This is a testament to how a culture of excellence in service is ingrained in the staff. It is not something that dissipates when you are behind the scenes. I mention to one of the staff that my only disappointment about the previous night is that our meal did not include the truffle dusted popcorn, for which Chef O’Connell is famous. This is included in the more robust Gastronaut’s menu, but not the a la carte menu. The executive sous chef promises to make me a batch of the popcorn before we depart. I am treated to a demonstration, where I marvel at the luxurious ingredients which includes air popped popcorn, truffle oil, sugar, Parmesan cheese, and a healthy shaving of imported truffles. At this point I really am too stuffed to enjoy the treat I have lusted after. I take a few bites and hold onto the rest for when I am hungry again, which isn’t until many hours later.

My only remaining regret is that there is no Chef Patrick O’Connell sighting, although I know he is in the kitchen while we are enjoying dinner. I want him to know how much we have loved his food and have fully appreciated the care and attention that he has put into his entire operation. Dining at the Inn is an experience to be cherished, and for a special occasion experience, it is unparalleled. I think back to his speech that brought me to this moment. His 30 years at the Inn at Little Washington. Our 30 years of marriage. Indeed…food is love.

The Inn at Little Washington, Washington, Virginia

Video of Chef O’Connell making truffled popcorn

Filed Under: Inn at Little Washington Tagged With: Chef Patrick O'Connell, DC dining, Inn at Little Washington, Les Dames d'Escoffier DC, Virginia, Virginia dining, Washington, Washington DC dining, Washington DC restaurant reviews, Washington Post restaurant review, Washingtonian 100 Very Best Restaurants

Wonderfully Tasty Food at Woodward Table

March 18, 2013 By Lori 3 Comments

My reaction when I hear that Google Reader is set to disappear after July 1? WTF!

WTF also comes to mind when one day I find myself driving to work, talking on the phone, and suddenly not sure if I am headed in the right direction.

Which is why I find it curious that Woodward Table, which opened in the space formerly occupied by Potenza last November, names its fast-casual companion WTF. This stands for Woodward Takeout Food. Apparently owner Jeff Buben, of Vidalia and Bistro Bis, does not realize the meaning until it’s too late. I depart Woodward Table thinking about those letters as they relate to my meal. But not in a bad way. As in WTF! This food is a really nice surprise!

It’s not that I don’t expect good food from Chef Buben. Both of his restaurants are well regarded in DC. And although it’s been two years since I dined at Bistro Bis, I gave it a thumbs up in my blog post. But it’s not often that nearly every dish on a menu appeals to me, and this makes me wary. Can so many dishes that appeal on the page deliver on the plate? Thankfully my five dining companions are willing accomplices in an attempt to sample as much as possible on Woodward Table’s menu of seasonal American cuisine.

I hold my breath as I eagerly pull apart a roll from the kitchen’s hearth oven. If I like a restaurant’s bread, I often find it’s a precursor to how I feel about the rest of the meal. The bread is warm and soft with just a touch of sea salt on top. Perfection. The rolls pass my taste test with flying colors. They are hard to resist, even though I know there are flatbreads just ahead.

Woodward Table’s flatbreads are thin, perfectly charred, and extra crispy, just the way I like them. Flatbread with duck confit, butternut squash, brussels sprouts, and manchego cheese is a beautiful balance of flavors.

Woodward Table duck confit flatbread

I am not an anchovy-lover. But my husband is intrigued by a flatbread special with pickled peppers, artichoke, arugula, manchego cheese, and anchovy tomato sauce. He gets the go-ahead from the group. The anchovy is subtle enough so that it doesn’t overwhelm the other ingredients. It’s a hit. I’m beginning to think this kitchen could put anything atop their flatbread and I would be satisfied.

Woodward Table anchovy arugula flatbread

Four salad options have equal appeal. We agree on two: kale and chopped salad. Kale salad is a sweet and savory mix of bacon, caramelized onions, dates and apples, with a pommery mustard vinaigrette. The generous cubes of bacon and dates make for an irresistible dish.

Woodward Table kale salad

The chopped salad has my go-to too often ingredients: beets and goat cheese. When will I stop ordering this? But the addition of radishes, cauliflower, and apricots provide enough of a twist. (Don’t tell the others but I stole a couple of extra bites of kale salad over the chopped salad, simply because it veers off my normal path.) But both salads are winners.

Woodward Table chopped salad

I’m relieved when my friend agrees to split an entree. I know this is the only way I’m going to make it all the way to dessert unscathed.

Seared scallops with kabocha squash puree, spiced pumpkin seeds, and caramelized pears is the ideal choice of entree. A recent run-in with undercooked scallops have left me wary. Fortunately, I decide it’s time to try again. This is the dish to restore my faith in scallops. The ingredients could potentially result in a dish that’s overly sweet, but I find the combination to be just right.

Woodward Table seared scallops

Other entrees at the table include a lovely pan roasted trout with king trumpet mushrooms, brussels sprouts and sweet potato as well as a tender honey glazed pork rib chop with braised greens, cipollini onions, and creamy grits.

Woodward Table pan roasted trout

Tom Sietsema of The Washington Post recently reviewed Woodward Table and has good things to say about some of the signature sides. We don’t want to miss out, so we sample four of the seven options. Woodward fries, cauliflower, mac and cheese, and brussels sprouts. None disappoint, but I personally favor the caramelized cauliflower with cranberries.

Woodward Table cauliflower

Many of the dishes at Woodward Table incorporate an element of sweetness. Nonetheless, dessert is a necessity. They stay consistent with the rest of the meal. I’m enamored with the apple sampler which includes an apple cupcake, apple upside-down tart, cider sorbet, and white chocolate apple mousse.

Woodward Table apple sampler

Others favor the pear tart with caramel pears, crisp pastry, blue cheese ice cream, and sea salt-caramel sauce. Both desserts really are delightful.

Woodward Table pear tart

We are one group of content diners, with everyone nodding in unanimous approval at the end of the meal. The Woodward Table team has given WTF new meaning: Wonderfully Tasty Food.

Woodward Table, 1426 H Street, NW Washington, DC

Washington Post review

If you follow me on Google Reader, please subscribe via email so you don’t miss out.

Filed Under: DC dining, Woodward Table Tagged With: Bistro Bis, DC dining, Jeff Buben, Tom Sietsema, Washington DC dining, Washington Post restaurant review, Woodward Table

Recent Restaurant Highs and Woes

March 10, 2013 By Lori 1 Comment

When you dine out regularly there are bound to be meals that make you swoon and others that fill you with regret. You can get your heart broken when a favorite spot closes, or find yourself distraught when a restaurant serves food that is barely edible. Like most things in life, eating in restaurants offers risks and rewards. Here are some of my most recent highs and woes.

Suna (woe)

I fell hard for Suna, the four-month old Capitol Hill restaurant. When it’s sudden closing was announced by The Washington Post‘s Tom Sietsema, I felt a real sense of loss. Why, why, why? Suna was unique in its approach to food, but more importantly offered innovation without requiring a significant hit to the pocketbook. I visited twice and was planning to return in the Spring once the menu reflected new seasonal dishes. Many are speculating on reasons for the closing (location, not enough press, etc.). But what’s the point? Suna is gone and there is no bringing it back. I can only hope that Chef Johnny Spero emerges again and soon (too sad right now for a pun). There is an ongoing discussion on Don Rockwell’s site, for those who want to mourn the loss with others who share the pain.

Cedar (high)

I got my game on at Cedar last May and have been planning to return ever since. What I like about Cedar is its creative contemporary menu, featuring fresh seasonal ingredients from both field and stream. But what really attracts me in addition to the food, is the warm and competent service and cozy atmosphere. When I offer to take charge of finding a restaurant for a group of 35, I immediately turn to Cedar. Owner Mikias Abebayehu couldn’t be more accommodating in meeting our needs.

I am confident in a first course that offers one of my favorite dishes in town: lobster and white chocolate soup. I am a little wary of a second course that includes an option of grilled elk sausage. I can now declare my love for elk, or at least for Chef Aaron McCloud’s elk dish.

Cedar grilled elk sausage

Serving a large group isn’t always easy, but the staff at Cedar come through with a plate of gluten free breads for one person in our party and an offer of a vegan menu to another, without ever being asked. Each course is presented beautifully and there is praise all around for the flavors.

It’s nerve wracking to make a group happy, and since this is a business dinner, my nerves are ratcheted up a notch. I’m grateful to the staff at Cedar for delivering in every way possible.

My May 2012 review of Cedar

Hanoi House (woe)

I don’t want to expend too much energy writing about Hanoi House, the relatively new restaurant serving Vietnamese cuisine on DC’s 14th Street. This is indeed a tale of woe.

As soon as the food is delivered to the table, I know we are in trouble. Vegetarian steamed buns look dried out and ordinary, and taste even worse. They are not fully cooked, tough on the outside, dry on the inside, and flavorless. A dish not worth finishing. I have catfish in a clay pot as an entree, which also looks unappealing from the outset. There are a few small pieces of overcooked fish, covered in a thick sauce that tastes more of salt than anything else. My friend has a cabbage salad with chicken. She is delivered a pile of cabbage with a few measly strips of chicken on top. She is given limes and a dish of seasoning and instructed to mix the ingredients together and pour it on the salad. The result renders the dish too salty and ultimately inedible. Vegetable pho is a huge dish of broth with mushrooms and little else. The only passable dish is a vermicelli rice bowl with grilled shrimp. My friend comments that the best part of her meal is the slice of cucumber adorning the edge of the plate.

Hanoi House vegetarian steamed buns

While I obviously cannot recommend Hanoi House for the food, it seems to be a perfectly fine venue for cocktails given its location, appealing decor, and amiable service.

I’ve written more than planned. Need I say more?

Daikaya (high)

The hottest dish in town these days has to be ramen. When I used to think of ramen noodles, I envisioned a cardboard container, a microwave, and boiling water. Not a lot of flavor but something quick and easy to stave off hunger in a pinch. No longer. Ramen shops are popping up all over. The newest player in DC is Daikaya.

I had the good fortune to try Daikaya recently and it served to reinforce my ramen love. Shio ramen features roast and ground pork, chashu, bean sprouts, scallions, and nori, all floating in a light and aromatic broth. The secret to great ramen is in the noodles. Daikaya ships them in from Sapporo, Japan and they are heavenly. (Note to my suburban friends: check out Ren’s Ramen in Wheaton. They use the same noodles.)

Daikaya will soon feature an izakaya* upstairs which will certainly warrant a second visit, if I don’t get there sooner for another tantalizing bowl of ramen.

*casual Japanese drinking establishment serving shared small plates meant to accompany the alcohol

Daikaya shio ramen

Without the occasional mediocre meal or loss of a restaurant we have come to love, would our appreciation for greatness have as much meaning? Author Charles Martin says:

“You take the bad with the good, Rise up through it. Live in the midst of it. It’s the bad that lets you know how good the good really is. Don’t let the bad leave you thinking like there ain’t any good. There is, and lots of it, too. ”

Here’s to letting the woebegone be gone, as we toast to excellence.

Cedar, 822 E street NW, Washington, DC

Hanoi House, 2005 14th St NW, Washington, DC

Daikaya, 705 6th Street NW, Washington, DC

Filed Under: Cedar, Daikaya, DC dining, Hanoi House Tagged With: Cedar, Cedar Restaurant, Chef Aaron McCloud, Chef Johnny Spero, Daikaya, DC dining, Hanoi House, Ren's Ramen, Suna, Washington DC dining

Range gets the green light

February 8, 2013 By Lori Leave a Comment

Conduct a Google search for Volt, Range, and Chevy Chase, and the first thing that comes up is the Chevy Volt plug-in hybrid. This isn’t what I have in mind when searching for Range, Chef Bryan Voltaggio’s new restaurant in the Chevy Chase Pavilion. Although… I do find some of the dishes electrifying.

I am somewhat on overdrive when it comes to Range. I’ve been three times since the mid-December opening, and I would happily return tomorrow. This is about more than my chef crush on the former “Top Chef” contestant. This is about patronizing a restaurant that offers a wide range of beautifully-executed dishes in a setting where I’m starting to feel quite at home. (Home, home on the range? I wouldn’t dare go there. I’m sticking with automobile references.)

What is it about Range that I find so appealing?

1. The food. Obviously. The small plates menu at Range is divided into sections including wood oven, wood grill, pan roasted, pasta, bakery, accompaniments, and specials. The choices seem overwhelming at first glance, but on the other hand this can be easily resolved by ordering a few extra dishes. This is the reason small plates were invented.

There are exciting new flavor combinations and unfamiliar territory to conquer here. Kimchi linguini, uni, bay scallops, and nasturtium is one of my favorite dishes among the twenty or so I’ve sampled.

Range Kimchi Pasta

Another favorite is striped bass with hazelnuts and sorghum, from the pan roasted section of the menu. This is saying something since I don’t even like hazelnuts. But the sauce makes up for it.

Range Striped Bass, BBQ Hazelnuts

Bacon-lovers should not miss the skillet cornbread with bacon marmalade. You’ll want to slather this stuff on everything. The bakers basket and spreads are all pretty marvelous. For $10 you get to try every bread and spread on the menu. Don’t ask questions. Just do it. Indulge.

Range Bakers Basket

Many people in the know when it comes to pizza would name Edan McQuaid as one of the most competent pizza makers in the area (if not the most). He is currently manning the pizza ovens at Range. He has plans to open his own place in the near future, so catch him here while you can. He’s making a sublime pizza with goat’s milk ricotta, meyer lemon, and arugula. This is a recent addition to the menu. My non meat-eating companions are grateful and so am I.

Range Ricotta, Meyer Lemon, Arugula Pizza

A few more of my favorites can be found in the vegetable and legume category: the fried brussels sprouts compete with the best around, and the oven roasted sunchokes with watercress and lemon stole my heart. I don’t hesitate to order more when I’m undecided. It’s just vegetables. Cauliflower with golden raisins and za’atar is worth it.

This is a meat-centric restaurant, so I have to mention the luscious leg of lamb with root vegetable puree and sea beans and the roseda beef rib cap steak with horseradish puree. I wasn’t as enthralled with the pan roasted chicken. There are many more interesting options worth exploring.

Range Leg of Lamb

2. The buzz. I admit that I am attracted to restaurant buzz, and Range opened to a great deal of it. On a weekend my food-blogger-heavy Twitter feed is certain to consist of multiple tweets about visits to Range. It is now nearly impossible to get a Saturday night reservation, unless you’re planning months ahead. (I booked mine before they opened, and it wasn’t easy). Buzz doesn’t always translate to good food nor does it usually last long, but I think it’s safe to say that Range will be buzzing for a good long while.

3. The setting. Not everyone likes it. It’s an expansive space, with seating for nearly 300 people. It overlooks a shopping mall. It’s fairly stark. It’s brightly lit, which some people complain about. It’s noisy. There are open cooking stations throughout the restaurant, so you can peek in on the action. I find all of this interesting and exciting. There is a large dining room in the back that is away from the action. It may provide some relief from the noise, but in walking through I find it just as loud as the rest of the restaurant. I much prefer being seated in the main dining room so I can see what’s going on (and yes, if Chef Voltaggio is in the restaurant I’ll have a better view). He’s only been there on one of my visits, which I admit is a bit of a disappointment.

More details about the interior at Range can be found here.

photo from dc.eater.com

4. The dessert cart. At the moment I am enamored with Range’s dessert cart on wheels mostly because it’s fun. There is a dessert menu with appealing choices (although I didn’t care for the bananas and brioche at all). But the chocolate crinkle cookies are good and there is a selection of truffles and bon bons that are stunningly beautiful. If you miss the cart, head on over to the candy counter. I put the brakes on and have not yet sampled any of these confections, but next time I’m going for it.

5. The location. I admit that one of the reasons I’ve been to Range multiple times is because of the location. I live and work in Montgomery County and I don’t always want to travel downtown to dine. And while Range has a DC address, it’s just over the border, so I can get there easily on a weeknight. The fact that Range is on par with many of my favorite restaurants downtown, fuels my desire even further.

I could go on and on about how I am driven to experience as much as possible on the menu at Range. But I’ve got to put the brakes on somewhere. And after all of this writing, I realize that I have probably applied the auto references to the wrong Voltaggio vehicle. Family Meal in Frederick is actually housed in a former automobile showroom. Oh well, it’s too late to turn back now.

Range, 5335 Wisconsin Avenue, NW, Washington, DC

More reviews of Bryan Voltaggio restaurants

Volt

Family Meal

Filed Under: DC dining, Range Tagged With: Bryan Voltaggio, DC dining, Range, top chef, Washington DC dining, Washington DC restaurant reviews

Taking criticism to heart at Equinox

December 22, 2012 By Lori 1 Comment

I am a sensitive person. When criticism comes my way, I take it very personally. A negative comment is examined and reexamined, until I can figure out how to address the issue if at all possible. A reader recently took me to task for attributing a movie quote incorrectly. “Wow! If you cant even get a movie quote right, I’m not sure if I trust your review.” My heart sinks upon reading this. I am so sensitive that when I get an unfollower on Twitter (and I know just who they are, thanks to unfollow), I agonize over what I have said to make them leave me. As someone who writes critiques that aren’t always 100% positive, it should be easier for me to field criticism. I guess it really is easier to dish it out than to take it.

On a recent visit to DC’s Equinox I can’t help but fixate on The Washington Post critic Tom Sietsema’s recent one and a-half star review. It is filled with criticisms, many of them directed at recently-appointed Executive Chef Karen Nicolas. In April Chef Nicolas was named by Food & Wine as one of the 10 Best New Chefs for 2012. According to Sietsema “The magazine’s tastemakers must have hit the restaurant, which enjoys a perfect location near the White House, on one of its best days. Since Nicolas has steered Equinox, I’ve had four meals there: the first so underwhelming that I thought she needed more rehearsal time.” Ouch.

Equinox is owned and operated by one of DC’s most respected chefs, Todd Gray. Gray has earned numerous awards including the Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington’s 2011 RAMMY Chef of the Year, along with five nominations for the James Beard Foundation’s Best Chef Mid-Atlantic Award. I know this review has to sting.

I am not wary about dining at Equinox, despite the review. One of my dining companions is a local wine writer (Grapelines). He knows Chef Gray and his wife Ellen Kassoff, and is a regular at Equinox. I trust that we will be treated royally and that our meal will be top-notch. I’m more interested in how the review has affected business and staff morale. More about that later.

There are a variety of appealing options on the menu, but eventually every one of our party of six decides to order the vegetarian tasting menu. It has universal appeal to a group that includes three non-meat eaters: beet salad, pumpkin soup, pasta with brussels sprouts, honey and spice roasted eggplant, and pumpkin pave for dessert. However, when it’s time to place our order, I hesitate. I am encouraged by my friends to venture in a different direction, for the sake of the blog. “I do love lamb,” I say somewhat wistfully. “Go for it,” says the group nearly in unison. I consent, as long as they agree to share my order of house-made gruyere gougères.

Sietsema comments that he finds the gougères heavy. This must have been addressed since the review, because they couldn’t be any lighter. With a touch of garlic, rosemary and sea salt, the gougères are an indulgent beginning, particularly since they follow the unexpected delivery of a basket of flaky cheddar biscuits.

Equinox gougères

The first course of the vegetarian tasting menu is citrus marinated beet salad. I’ve ordered a portion for myself, since the dish initially drew me to the tasting menu and I don’t want to be left out. Ricotta beignets, green olives, and pomegranate seeds accessorize lightly dressed micro watercress. The female diners share a twinge of guilt about the ricotta beignets in the salad. More pastry filled with cheese. This meal is feeling very decadent and we haven’t gotten very far. But, there is no place for guilt when enjoying such a polished and elegant meal.

Equinox Beet Salad

I linger over my beet salad, while the rest of the group delves into a complex roasted pie pumpkin soup with poached quince, hazelnut crumble, and curry leaf. It is a perfect late autumn soup- not too thick or too sweet. There is a beautiful layering of textures and flavors.

Equinox pumpkin soup

The next course for the veggie group is hand torn malfatti pasta with brussels sprouts, mushrooms and roasted chestnuts. There is agreement that the flavor is noteworthy, but the pasta noodles are clumped together, which makes it difficult to eat. Regardless of the awkward texture, the ingredients blend to form a cohesive dish.

Equinox Pasta

I am only slightly self-conscious as a generous portion of lamb arrives. Thyme roasted Pennsylvania lamb loin is perched atop rainbow swiss chard, caramelized eggplant, and sweet garlic jus and studded with olives. The lamb is tender and beautifully prepared, but it’s the charred eggplant with honey and seven spices that provide wonderful bursts of sweetness.

Equinox lamb loin

While I am savoring the lamb and eggplant, my companions are enjoying a similar dish (minus the lamb). Honey & spice roasted eggplant features many of the components that are on my plate and then some. Stellar dishes…both of them.

Equinox honey & spice roasted eggplant

The pumpkin pave with cinnamon ice cream, hazelnut streusel, and pumpkin seed brittle looks incredible, and I am assured that it is. However, I am steering away from anything hazelnut, even though my husband and friends insist the hazelnut is subtle. They love it.

I opt for warm quince crisp. It’s the only misstep in an otherwise stellar meal. The flavor is lacking (my friend thinks something is off about it, but I don’t agree) and there’s nothing to hold the dessert together. On the other hand, the coconut sorbet is quite good, so at least I’m left with some sweet satisfaction. All in all we have enjoyed an excellent meal with impeccable service, exceeding our expectations.

Equinox quince crisp

I am left wondering about that Washington Post review. Was Tom Sietsema totally off base? A few days after our dinner, I have an opportunity speak with owner Ellen Kassoff about how things are going post the Post review.

“Every review is an opportunity to review ourselves, who we are, and what we are doing. While criticisms can be harsh, we welcome them,” she says. She believes that Equinox is held to an extremely high standard because of her husband’s length of experience. It was difficult for him to hand over the title of Executive Chef. Sietsema agrees saying the appointment of Nicholas in that role ”suggests a veteran chef admirably willing to let go of some ego.”

Following the review Kassoff said that she felt some initial anger, but subsequently they took an opportunity to reexamine what they ultimately wanted for their restaurant. As a result, Chef Gray has reclaimed the kitchen. The menu has gone back to its roots (more hearty and rustic food) and Gray is doing more of the cooking and working to mentor Nicolas.

The good news for Equinox is that loyal customers haven’t left. They seem to be more loyal than ever. Kassoff says Equinox is having one of its best years and the love and support they are hearing from their customers are helping staff through what was initially a very tough time. Kassoff notes that it is easy to get distracted by what’s written in print and online. “We just have to get back in the kitchen.” Reviews and online comments can be combative and cantankerous but as Kassoff says “It’s just dinner. People really just need to be nicer to each other.”

I am surprised by this conversation, as I truly expected a blasting of the critic rather than a story about taking criticism to heart. No one likes getting a bad review. But you have to admire restaurant owners who use it as an opportunity to move forward, rather than dwelling on the negative. A lesson I hope I can apply the next time someone throws some disapproval my way.

Equinox, 818 Connecticut Avenue, NW, Washington, DC

Washington Post review

Washingtonian’s 100 Very Best Restaurants 2012

the perks of dining with a wine guy

Filed Under: DC dining, Equinox Tagged With: DC dining, Ellen Kassoff, Equinox, Karen Nicolas, Todd Gray, Tom Sietsema, Washington DC dining, Washington DC restaurant reviews, Washington Post restaurant review, Washingtonian 100 Very Best Restaurants

Suna…not later

December 15, 2012 By Lori 3 Comments

THIS RESTAURANT IS NOW CLOSED

I can usually tell how I really feel about a restaurant when I think about if and when I want to return. Sometimes I say “been there, eaten that” and move on. Other times, I haven’t even finished my meal when I start plotting a comeback (hello Izakaya Seki and Little Serow). The newly-opened Suna next to Eastern Market falls into the category of ….take a look at the headline.

The atmosphere at Suna is low-key- no bells and whistles, just rustic woodsy charm. The small space feels exclusive, and one could feel at home in jeans or dressed up. There is no artwork on the wall, no lavish adornments, no fancy lighting. It’s sparse, but at the same time intriguing. And while I am not against being wowed by decor, there is something about sparse that feels good.

The Suna concept, like the decor, is fairly simple. It does, however, require explanation. There are two options: a four course dinner for $48 and an eight course dinner for $78 (which seems like a bargain these days). The menu lists main ingredients: root vegetable, kampachi, shellfish, dashi custard, pork, fowl, apple, and hazelnut. If you opt for four courses, you have a couple of choices to make. I decide that for this first visit, I want to try everything. My husband’s dietary needs can be accommodated for eight courses, which means substitutions or omissions for the shellfish, pork, and fowl courses. Our son is a vegetarian (no fish) so when he dined at Suna a few days earlier, he is told they can only offer four courses. He is perfectly satisfied with the variety and portion sizes. In fact, his rave review has me revved up with some high expectations.

Chef Johnny Spero is young (26) but he has some serious credentials, having cooked at Komi, Toki Underground, and Copenhagen’s Noma, which is one of the most highly regarded restaurants in the world. It’s no wonder that there there is already positive buzz for Suna.

Once you make the four course vs. eight course decision, you can sit back and relax. Our server seems excited to take us through the experience and Sean Alves, the general manager/sommelier checks on us periodically and adeptly guides us on wine selections. For a restaurant that’s less than a month old, it’s particularly satisfying to benefit from the staff’s enthusiasm and competence.

An amuse bouche of caraway cracker with egg emulsion and pastrami spices is effective in setting the stage for what’s ahead. The caraway and pastrami flavors are strong and enticing.

The first course is a true revelation. It’s a combination of root vegetables (beets, celery root, grated parsnip, kohlrabi) served raw, pickled, or candied and topped with an arugula granita. Dig deeper and a beautifully sweet brown butter sauce lies beneath the surface. I don’t need to look any further than this dish for a reason to return to Suna.

Suna Root Vegetable

Mackerel with husked cherries, pickled elderflower, and charred pureed eggplant is a well-balanced combination of sweet, smoky and sour. I am ready to lick the plate. Speaking of plates, they are all hand-crafted by local artist Amber Kendrick, and contribute to the “fine dining inspired by nature” theme of the restaurant.

Suna mackerel

Dashi custard with scallop, sea bean, and pickled mushrooms is an inventive and very tasty dish. It’s rich, smooth, and satisfying. The vegetarian version omits the scallop, which doesn’t detract from the overall effect.

Suna dashi custard

The guinea hen competes with the root vegetable as something that will beckon me back to Suna. Flavors linger long after the meal is over. The hen is moist and tender, and there is a crispy piece of skin on the side to add texture. It’s an earthy dish with its accompanying confit with farro and bulgar wheat, along with sunchokes. The vegetarian version is minus the hen and confit, so I can’t imagine that it can be quite as good, but I hear nothing but admiration for the dish.

Suna guinea hen

The shellfish course is my least favorite. It’s a nori cracker with mussels and Peruvian purple potato dumplings. I find it way too fishy and think the dumpling lacks any oomph. This is coming from someone who doesn’t like mussels at all unless they are seriously disguised, so I may not be the best judge. An opposing opinion comes from Chef Justin Bittner of Bar Pilar, who writes on www.donrockwell.com: ” I thought it awesome, the potato dumpling had sort of a Korean rice stick texture. Anyway I’m pretty sure they must make a broth out of mussels, reduce it and cook more mussels in it, I found it heady and rich. Only complaint, could’a had 2 more bites.”

Suna mussels

I would have preferred the vegetarian option of pumpkin plate with black pudding/yogurt/pine nuts.

Suna Pumpkin

I am too full to fully enjoy braised pork with kale and daikon. It’s too bad because tender pork and crispy kale with tahini sauce really appeals to me. Don’t get me wrong. It’s not that I don’t eat any of the dish. I just can’t soak in the flavors to the extent I would like.

Suna pork

My palate perks back up for one of the desserts. Charred apple ice cream with pressed apples, cilantro stems, and malted milk crumble. It’s saltier than it is sweet. It’s perfect. The second dessert is aerated hazelnut parfait with cocoa and hazelnut butter. I detest hazelnut, but I decide to try it. Nope. I really do detest hazelnut. My husband is more than happy to eat my share. The server learns of my hazelnut aversion too late. He tells me that next time they can offer another option.

What I like best about Suna is its lack of pretention. The emphasis is on showcasing great ingredients, rather than putting on a show. The focus is on the plate, where it should be. (I stole this line from our server, but I was thinking the same thing). The eight course menu at Suna is perfect for a long, leisurely, special-occasion meal. It’s the four course menu that will bring me back here. Definitely Suna rather than later.

Suna, 214 7th Street, SE, Washington, DC

Washingtonian Inside Look

Filed Under: DC dining, Suna Tagged With: Chef Johnny Spero, DC dining, Justin Bittner, Suna, Washington DC dining, Washington DC restaurant reviews, www.donrockwell.com

Liftoff for Matchbox 14th Street

December 7, 2012 By Lori Leave a Comment

’tis the season for new restaurant openings. In the last few weeks, DGS Delicatessen, Wildwood Kitchen, Hanoi House, Suna, and Woodward Table have all opened their doors. Joining this group is a new Matchbox on 14th Street. This is the fourth area location for Matchbox. And while this may put it into the category of a local chain, it has a very un- chain like feel, particularly when it comes to the interior design. (Here are some photos from EaterDC.)

The newest Matchbox is in a former auto showroom/bowling alley/nightclub. The space covers three floors and has a rustic feel, with lots of wood and exposed brick. That could describe any number of DC restaurants, but how many of them can say they have two tables floating in mid-air? I envy the diners that get to sit here.

I am a guest for a media preview, and my main objective is to experience menu items that are unique to the new location, particularly since I am a fairly frequent patron of Matchbox Rockville. Our server is eager to point out what’s new and different.

We begin with pizza, because when it comes down to it Matchbox brands is a “vintage pizza bistro.” My go-to at Matchbox Rockville is “Fire and Smoke.” I end up with a pizza that’s not new to Matchbox or unique to this location but it’s new to me. Veggie pizza with roasted garlic, pesto, oven-dried tomato, and artichokes appeals to me because well…. I love artichokes. Throw in a thin, crispy pizza crust and I’m a happy diner.

Matchbox veggie pizza

I stick with my original plan and select an entree that’s making it’s debut on 14th street. Braised beef short ribs with turmeric vegetables, fingerling potatoes, and coconut curry sauce catches my eye immediately. It’s a delightful dish! The meat is perfectly tender, and the creamy curry sauce is full of flavor. While I can’t finish every bite of the plentiful portion of beef, I do manage to eat all of my vegetables. The roasted vegetables coated with just a touch of the sauce are too good to leave behind. My Matchbox visits usually tend to more casual fare, so this dish really is a pleasant surprise.

Matchbox Shortribs

My husband has chosen fish and chips. The panko crusted haddock is light and crunchy and the tartar relish, dotted with capers, is a creative touch. He finds the fries a bit too oily, but overall says the dish is quite tasty.

Butternut squash cheesecake with candied butternut squash and whipped cream is a lovely autumn dessert, and less guilt-inducing than a standard cheesecake. It’s the kind of dessert that can be enjoyed after more than a couple of bites, because it’s not overly sweet. I eagerly devour my half.

Matchbox is a nice addition to the burgeoning dining scene on the U Street Corridor. With a 25-foot bar, wine on tap, two pizza ovens, and eventual outdoor seating with a fire pit, I imagine that 14th Street will be a happening spot, matching the popularity of its other locations. As a suburbanite, I’m much more likely to stick to the Rockville location if I’m in a Matchbox mood. But then again, sitting at one of those floating tables could certainly provide an elevating experience.

Matchbox 14th Street, 1901 14th Street, NW, Washington, DC

Filed Under: DC dining, Matchbox 14th Street Tagged With: 14th Street dining, DC dining, DGS Delicatessan, Hanoi House, Matchbox, Matchbox 14th Street, Suna, U Street dining, Washington DC dining, Washington DC restaurant reviews, Wildwood Kitchen, Woodward Table

Daikaya’s Stairway to Heaven

A dressing down at Osteria Elisir

Mintwood Place shines in a growing playground

Food is love…The Inn at Little Washington

Wonderfully Tasty Food at Woodward Table

Recent Restaurant Highs and Woes

Range gets the green light

Taking criticism to heart at Equinox

Suna…not later

Liftoff for Matchbox 14th Street

About Lori

Recent Posts

Archives

Favorite Sites

DC Area Restaurants