Baltimore’s Pabu: the joy of eating

April 27, 2013 By Leave a Comment

A colleague is telling me about a recent dining experience at DC’s The Atlas Room. “The food is so outrageously good, that we keep putting down our forks and giggling.”  I don’t know that chefs should aspire to create dishes that make guests break into peals of laughter.  But there is something to be said for food that induces some expressions of glee.  A recent excursion to Michael Mina’s Pabu in Baltimore’s Four Seasons Hotel elicits quite a few exuberant exclamations at our table.

We are here with friends who I will refer to as Chef S. and his wife.  Chef S. is a discerning diner and accomplished home chef.  When Chef S. tastes something particularly pleasurable no words are necessary. At first there is a look of wonderment as the tastes fully register on his palate.  This is eventually replaced by an  expression of pure joy.  That’s what I’m talking about.

Our approach to Pabu’s  Japanese izakaya (small plates) menu is to incorporate pescatarian options to satisfy my husband’s kosher requirements along with some very appealing beef, pork, and shellfish dishes for the rest of us.

Fire-roasted edamame with sake, mirin, soy, and Japanese chili is a cut above other similar versions.  The intermingling of salty and spice is a perfect way to ease into the whirlwind of flavors to come.  Ahi tuna poke with tobiko, scallion, and wonton crisps has flavor that builds to a satisfying finish.  We could easily devour a second portion, but it’s too early in the game to stuff ourselves with one dish, no matter how good it is.

Pabu ahi tuna poke

Pabu ahi tuna poke

Amberjack with kanpachi, yuzu-chili, fried shallot, and pine nuts is a nightly special.  And special it is.  The fresh and delicate fish has just a touch of crunch and loads of flavor.

Pabu Amberjack

Pabu Amberjack

Tiny eggplants with spicy miso glaze is one of the don’t miss dishes from Todd Kliman’s Washingtonian review.  We are glad that we don’t.  This is the first of several dishes we order featuring miso glaze.  We don’t notice this when ordering.  Fortunately, its a sticky sweetness that could enhance any dish, and we don’t tire of it.

 

Pabu tiny eggplants with spicy miso glaze

Pabu tiny eggplants with spicy miso glaze

Maryland crab okonomiyaki with fried egg, pork belly, and mustard mayo is something of a mess at first glance  But the pile of ingredients featuring contrasting colors each have a distinct flavor:  tangy pickled ginger, creamy egg, and  deliciously salty pork belly, not to mention the delightful crab.  Could this be our favorite dish of the night?  Perhaps.

Pabu Maryland crab okonomiyaki

Pabu Maryland crab okonomiyaki

 

The  Berkshire pork country ribs with red  chili glaze have me licking my fingers.  The miso glaze makes another appearance, gently coating the wonderfully tender meat.  This might be my favorite dish of the evening.

Pabu Berkshire Pork country ribs

Then again there is roasted bone marrow.  I’ve never really understood the appeal of bone marrow.  Until now.  Pabu’s spicy miso glazed (here it is again!) bone marrow is accented with ramp salsa verde.  The bone marrow begs me to pick it up to ensure that I leave no morsel of meat untouched. I cannot ignore the call.  Seriously this is my favorite dish at Pabu.

PABU ROASTED BONE MARROW

PABU ROASTED BONE MARROW

Four people are now grinning from ear to ear, as each dish that arrives at the table is better than the one that preceded it.

Dessert is debatable, and we’re leaning towards going without.  But when we are presented the dessert menu from the neighboring Wit & Wisdom (also in the Four Seasons hotel), in addition to Pabu’s menu, we feel we have hit the dessert lottery. We decide to go with Wit & Wisdom’s offerings which includes “Banana” – warm banana cake, banana sherbet, cinnamon chocolate, brown sugar wafer and “Coffee and Cake” – devil’s food, espresso curd, and brown butter coffee sherbet. They are both heavenly.

Wit & Wisdom Banana

Wit & Wisdom Banana

Wit & Wisdom coffee & cake

Wit & Wisdom coffee & cake

There are many areas of the menu we’ve left unexplored including sushi, sashimi, and rolls, which may have been a tactical error.  On the other hand, it’s certainly an excuse for a return visit.

The casual atmosphere is inviting and comfortable.  But it’s the background music from the 80′s that makes us feel right at home, and brings more smiles to our faces.

PABU INTERIOR

 

Pabu is one of those places that I’ll be thinking about for a long time.  It makes me realize that when at it’s best, food really is a laughing matter.

 

Pabu, 725 Aliceanna Street, Baltimore, MD

Review from Washingtonian’s 100 Very Best Restaurants for 2013*
Pabu on Urbanspoon

 

*Pabu is on Washingtonian’s list of 100 Very Best Restaurants for 2013.  Washingtonian‘s Todd Kliman explains why Pabu, as well as Baltimore’s Woodberry Kitchen, make it on the magazine’s list in one of his recent online chats:  Our feeling was that both those places offer an experience that is not so common in DC, and that those experiences are worth sharing with our readers.

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Food is love…The Inn at Little Washington

March 29, 2013 By 3 Comments

Last fall I attended a farm-to-fork tour of Rappahannock County sponsored by Les Dames d’Escoffier DC.   The tour included a visit to the famed restaurant Inn at Little Washington.  Chef/restaurateur Patrick O’Connell spoke to the group about his beginnings at the restaurant more than 30 years ago, his connection to local farmers, and how he believes that “food is love.”   The goal at the Inn is for guests to enjoy a transformative and luxurious experience, encompassing far more than the enjoyment of fine food.  Chef O’Connell is a charismatic speaker, and I am spellbound by his words.

For years I felt I was missing something by not having dined at the Inn. But for maximum enjoyment (i.e. a nice bottle of wine) to dine at the Inn requires an overnight stay, since its Washington, Virginia location is an hour and a half drive from home.  This is not just dinner out.  It is a commitment of time and money.

But listening to Chef O’Connell speak, I realize that there is no more appropriate place for my husband and I to celebrate our 30th wedding anniversary. Food is love?  This is basically the theme for our marriage.  Fortunately my husband agrees with the plan, which is probably part of the reason we have been married 30 years.  (Not the agreeing with me part but the being okay with spending hundreds of dollars on dinner part.  Well maybe both).

Since a stay at the Inn itself is another commitment altogether, with rooms starting at approx. $600 per night, we opt to stay at a bed and breakfast in nearby Sperryville, Virginia.

You don’t sign on for a meal that costs $200 per person before tax, tip, and alcohol without extremely high expectations. It is imperative to suspend any concern about cost.  This is about excellence.  Inn at Little Washington is #1 on Washingtonian’s list of 100 Very Best Restaurants, four out of four stars from The Washington Post, an almost perfect score from Zagat, a 5-diamond (highest-rating) award from AAA for 25 years running, and too many other acknowledgements to mention.  Ask almost anyone who has dined here, and you get a reverent sigh of satisfaction.

Joining us for dinner at the Inn are cousins A & B, who are also celebrating an anniversary.  Since their introduction came by way of our engagement party, we agree that a joint celebration is in order.

We begin our evening in a sitting room adjacent to the dining area, where we can soak in the ambiance before we focus on the food.  The Inn’s decor is ornate and old-fashioned, with tassles and fringe galore.  The immersion in luxury begins.

little_washington

A closer look at the decor reveals whimsical touches, such as a wooden cow waiting to take a turn as a vehicle for the cheese course. I usually prefer a more modern atmosphere, but it’s impossible to resist the Inn’s charm.

Faira the Cheese Cow - Picture of Inn at Little Washington, WashingtonThis photo of Inn at Little Washington is courtesy of TripAdvisor

From the moment we are seated, it is clear what the fuss is all about.  Employees are well-trained in the art of hospitality and are ready to accede to our every wish.  Cousins A & B, who are here for the second time, remark that their previous visit to the Inn felt more dramatic.  It’s difficult to replicate the magic of a first time experience.  We have no basis for comparison, and are content with service that may lack drama but is not at all short on finesse.

The four course tasting menu has a welcome diversity of options.  While some tasting menus present challenges for my Kosher-keeping husband, this is not the case at the Inn at Little Washington.  The menu includes fish and pasta that do not require a request for substitutions or omissions.

Our server guides me when my confidence in what to order falters. I am poised for a culinary adventure, and I don’t want to make any mistakes.  It doesn’t take long for me to relax and enjoy the parade of breath-taking dishes placed before us.

I begin with carpaccio of herb crusted baby lamb loin with caesar salad ice cream, which provides a shockingly cool and satisfying contrast to the rare meat. It tastes as spectacular as it looks.

THE INN AT LITTLE WASHINGTON Carpaccio of Herb Crusted Baby Lamb Loin with Caesar Salad Ice Cream

 

My second course is  New England day boat scallops sautéed with curried cauliflower, sultanas, and garlic chips.  While I have resorted to dishes featuring two of my favorite ingredients, other lamb and scallop dishes I’ve had recently pale in comparison.  My only concern is this:  when  you dine at the top of the restaurant pyramid in terms of flavor, complexity, and presentation, can you subsequently find satisfaction at a lower level?  Time will tell.  This meal is about the present.

THE INN AT LITTLE WASHINGTON New England Day Boat Scallops Sauteed with Curried Cauliflower, Sultanas and Garlic Chips

 

My main course is seared rare tuna crusted with mustard seeds, and layered with foie gras, with preserved lemon puree and a confetti of garden vegetables.  I am not accustomed to eating foie gras, but the indulgent ingredient seems appropriate for the occasion.  It is a generous portion and at some point I decide to leave some of it behind and focus my attention solely on the tuna.

THE INN AT LITTLE WASHINGTON Seared Rare Tuna Crusted with Mustard Seeds, Layered with foie gras, with Preserved Lemon Puree and a Confetti of Garden Vegetables

One of the things I like best about a tasting menu is that I don’t have an internal struggle about dessert.  It’s included.  I’m eating it.  End of story.  My selection is cocoa nib Napoleon with caramelized bananas, chocolate mousse, and sorbet with caramel lime sauce.  I have again steered towards my favorite flavors (caramel and lime) and have no regrets.  The Happy Anniversary message is a lovely, although somewhat expected, touch.

THE INN AT LITTLE WASHINGTON Cocoa nib napoleon

In the interest of time and space, I will not include the dishes enjoyed by my dining companions. Suffice it to say that a magnificent meal was enjoyed by all.  Happily, the story of my experience doesn’t end here.

The next morning my husband, who is in the restaurant equipment business, has arranged to work with some of the staff at the Inn.  I tag along, because I can’t turn down an opportunity to spend more time here.

We have just eaten a lovely breakfast at our B&B, but when we are invited to sit at the chef’s table and enjoy breakfast before my husband begins his work….how can we refuse?  My husband looks uncertain, but I am grinning from ear to ear.  Diner’s at the Inn can pay a surcharge on their meal for the chance to sit at the chef’s table and observe the goings on. The surcharge for a Saturday night is $575.  While this isn’t a Saturday night, and the kitchen is most certainly more relaxed than during dinner, this is an opportunity not to be missed.  A flight of juices, a warm basket of baked goods, fresh fruit, and hot coffee exceed my expectations.  When I don’t think it is possible to eat another bite, we are handed a menu and invited to order a breakfast entree.  Can I possibly eat any more?  Apparently so.  A brioche French toast with blackberry sauce is one of the most heavenly dishes I have ever tasted.  It’s so light and airy that I can’t imagine it contains any calories at all.  At least that is what I tell myself.

THE INN AT LITTLE WASHINGTON French Toast The staff are treating us like royalty, although at this point we are not paying guests.  This is a testament to how a culture of excellence in service is ingrained in the staff.    It is not something that dissipates when you are behind the scenes.  I mention to one of the staff that my only disappointment about the previous night is that our meal did not include the truffle dusted popcorn, for which Chef O’Connell is famous.  This is included in the more robust Gastronaut’s menu, but not the a la carte menu.  The executive sous chef promises to make me a batch of the popcorn before we depart.  I am treated to a demonstration, where I marvel at the luxurious ingredients which includes air popped popcorn, truffle oil, sugar, Parmesan cheese, and a healthy shaving of imported truffles. At this point I really am too stuffed to enjoy the treat I have lusted after. I take a few bites and hold onto the rest for when I am hungry again, which isn’t until many hours later.

My only remaining regret is that there is no Chef Patrick O’Connell sighting, although I know he is in the kitchen while we are enjoying dinner.  I want him to know how much we have loved his food and have fully appreciated the care and attention that he has put into his entire operation.  Dining at the Inn is an experience to be cherished, and for a special occasion experience, it is unparalleled.  I think back to his speech that brought me to this moment.  His 30 years at the Inn at Little Washington.  Our 30 years of marriage. Indeed…food is love.

The Inn at Little Washington, Washington, Virginia

Video of Chef O’Connell making truffled popcorn

The Inn at Little Washington on Urbanspoon

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Feeling age appropriate at Wildwood Kitchen

February 22, 2013 By Leave a Comment

I am accustomed to being among the oldest diners in many DC restaurants.  Most of the time I don’t really think about it- except when I am standing in line to get into a place like Toki Underground and my back starts killing me after 10 minutes.

But walking into Wildwood Kitchen, the new Robert Wiedmaier retaurant in Bethesda’s Wildwood Shopping Center, is a different story.  My first clue that I may be on the younger side of the demographic scale is the Bobby Darin tune playing in the background. It’s actually refreshing to be in a restaurant that has me in the lower age range of its target audience.

Wiedmaier’s reputation precedes him, as the chef/owner of notable restaurants including Brasserie Beck and Marcel’s, as well as Bethesda proper’s Mussel Bar (which I can’t seem to get motivated to try, since I don’t eat mussels).  In this suburban strip mall, he is clearly aiming to fill a niche in an area that is high in income and low in decent restaurants.

I arrive early and this gives me a few moments to soak in the atmosphere.  Wildwood Kitchen is casually elegant, with a touch of the outdoors brought indoors.  This includes a border with a forest scene, and a light fixture that looks like a tree branch. Everything is kind of wild and woodsy.   I can’t quite decide what to make of the servers who are attired in checked shirts and jeans.  On the one hand, it goes with the theme, but the Mediterranean-influenced menu feels more dressed-up to me.

The menu itself is short and appealing.  Part of the concept is that the food is light on butter and cream,  perfect for the largely over-50 suburban crowd, who are likely to applaud flavor without the added calories.  I put myself right into this category.  It’s refreshing to know that I can dine with a bit less concern for the long-term impact.

There is a special menu for Valentine’s Day.  I am relieved to find that the regular menu is also available, since the special entrees are all priced $20 higher than the standard ones.  This irks me.  It would be so much more endearing to find a price fixe special menu offering discounts, rather  than inflated pricing.

It doesn’t take me long to recover. Wildwood Kitchen wins me over once they deliver a crusty bread with tuna ganoush dip.  Think baba ganoush but with a mild tuna flavor to add interest.

My husband and I share a beet and goat cheese salad.  I confess that I am beginning to tire of this standard starter, which I find myself ordering all too often.  But this is a high quality version, and I particularly like the soft and creamy goat cheese.

 

Wildwood Kitchen Beet Sal

Wildwood Kitchen Beet Salad

My main course is roasted duck breast with Tuscan style cauliflower, date puree, and cherry duck jus.  I could not have picked an entree better suited to my taste.  The duck is perfectly cooked with a lightly crisped skin, and a sweet but not too sweet sauce.  Dare I say, I nearly licked my plate clean?

Wildwood Kitchen Duck Breast

Wildwood Kitchen Duck Breast

 

My husband is equally fond of arctic char en papillote with julienned vegetables, lemon, coriander, and carrot jus. This is a package that is particularly fun to unwrap, unveiling a moist and fragrant fish.

Wildwood Kitchen Arctic Char

Wildwood Kitchen Arctic Char

The dessert choices are limited and nothing really speaks to me. But it’s Valentine’s Day and a shared dessert feels like a must.  We order the olive oil shortcake with champagne sorbet and strawberries from the special Valentine’s Day menu.  At $12 it’s going to be difficult to live up to the price.  The shortcake doesn’t have much flavor, but we like the champagne sorbet.  Worth it?  Not really.

 

Wildwood Kitchen Olive Oil Shortcake

Wildwood Kitchen Olive Oil Shortcake

The service here is competent- staff are not overbearing but at-the-ready when needed.  This is important at a suburban restaurant where some patrons will consider good service to be more important than good food.  Fortunately, Wildwood Kitchen offers both.

Some of the newer additions to the Bethesda/Rockville/Potomac dining scene such as Founding Farmers, Matchbox Rockville, Chef Geoff’s Rockville, and Sugo Cichetti are fine options as companions to a movie or theater, or even for a girl’s night out. But there are only a handful of Montgomery County restaurants that I consider worthwhile, if a decent dining experience is the primary intent of the evening. Wildwood Kitchen is now on my list. The fact that I can act my age makes it all the more appealing.

 

Wildwood Kitchen, 10223 Old Georgetown Road, Bethesda, MD

Washingtonian Magazine, 5 Places to Watch in 2013

 

Wildwood Kitchen on Urbanspoon

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Taking criticism to heart at Equinox

December 22, 2012 By 1 Comment

I am a sensitive person. When criticism comes my way, I take it very personally. A negative comment is examined and reexamined, until I can figure out how to address the issue if at all possible.  A reader recently took me to task for attributing a movie quote incorrectly. “Wow! If you cant even get a movie quote right, I’m not sure if I trust your review.”  My heart sinks upon reading this.  I am so sensitive that when I get an unfollower on Twitter (and I know just who they are, thanks to unfollow), I agonize over what I have said to make them leave me. As someone who writes critiques that aren’t always 100% positive, it should be easier for me to field criticism.  I guess it really is easier to dish it out than to take it.

On a recent visit to DC’s Equinox  I can’t help but fixate on The Washington Post critic Tom Sietsema’s recent one and a-half star review.  It is filled with criticisms, many of them directed at recently-appointed Executive Chef Karen Nicolas.  In April Chef Nicolas was named by Food & Wine as one of the 10 Best New Chefs for 2012.  According to Sietsema “The magazine’s tastemakers must have hit the restaurant, which enjoys a perfect location near the White House, on one of its best days. Since Nicolas has steered Equinox, I’ve had four meals there: the first so underwhelming that I thought she needed more rehearsal time.”  Ouch.

Equinox is owned and operated by one of DC’s most respected chefs, Todd Gray.  Gray has earned numerous awards including the Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington’s 2011 RAMMY Chef of the Year, along with five nominations for the James Beard Foundation’s Best Chef Mid-Atlantic Award. I know this review has to sting.

I am not wary about dining at Equinox, despite the review.  One of my dining companions is a local wine writer (Grapelines).  He knows Chef Gray and his wife Ellen Kassoff, and is a regular at Equinox. I trust that we will be treated royally and that our meal will be top-notch. I’m more interested in how the review has affected business and staff morale. More about that later.

There are a variety of appealing options on the menu, but eventually every one of our party of six decides to order the vegetarian tasting menu.  It has universal appeal to a group that includes three non-meat eaters: beet salad, pumpkin soup, pasta with brussels sprouts, honey and spice roasted eggplant, and pumpkin pave for dessert.  However, when it’s time to place our order, I hesitate.  I am encouraged by my friends to venture in a different direction, for the sake of the blog. “I do love lamb,” I say somewhat wistfully.  “Go for it,” says the group nearly in unison. I consent, as long as they agree to share my order of house-made gruyere gougères.

Sietsema comments that he finds the gougères heavy.  This must have been addressed since the review, because they couldn’t be any lighter.  With a touch of garlic, rosemary and sea salt, the gougères are an indulgent beginning, particularly since they follow the unexpected delivery of a basket of flaky cheddar biscuits.

Equinox Gougères

Equinox gougères

The first course of the vegetarian tasting menu is citrus marinated beet salad.  I’ve ordered a portion for myself, since the dish initially drew me to the tasting menu and I don’t want to be left out.  Ricotta beignets, green olives, and pomegranate seeds accessorize lightly dressed micro watercress.  The female diners share a twinge of guilt about the ricotta beignets in the salad.  More pastry filled with cheese.  This meal is feeling very decadent and we haven’t gotten very far.  But, there is no place for guilt when enjoying such a polished and elegant meal.

Equinox Beet Salad

Equinox Beet Salad

I linger over my beet salad, while the rest of the group delves into a complex roasted pie pumpkin soup with poached quince, hazelnut crumble, and curry leaf.  It is a perfect late autumn soup- not too thick or too sweet.  There is a beautiful layering of textures and flavors.

Equinox pumpkin soup

Equinox pumpkin soup

The next course for the veggie group is hand torn malfatti pasta with brussels sprouts, mushrooms and roasted chestnuts.  There is agreement that the flavor is noteworthy, but the pasta noodles are clumped together, which makes it difficult to eat.  Regardless of the awkward texture, the ingredients blend to form a cohesive dish.

Equinox Pasta

Equinox Pasta

I am only slightly self-conscious as a generous portion of lamb arrives.  Thyme roasted Pennsylvania lamb loin is perched atop rainbow swiss chard, caramelized eggplant, and sweet garlic jus and studded with olives.  The lamb is tender and beautifully prepared, but it’s the charred eggplant with honey and seven spices that provide wonderful bursts of sweetness.

Equinox lamb loin

Equinox lamb loin

While I am savoring the lamb and eggplant, my companions are enjoying a similar dish (minus the lamb). Honey & spice roasted eggplant features many of the components that are on my plate and then some. Stellar dishes…both of them.

spice eggplant

Equinox honey & spice roasted eggplant

The pumpkin pave with cinnamon ice cream, hazelnut streusel, and pumpkin seed brittle looks incredible, and I am assured that it is.  However, I am steering away from anything hazelnut, even though my husband and friends insist the hazelnut is subtle.  They love it.

Equinox Pumpkin Pave

I opt for warm quince crisp.  It’s the only misstep in an otherwise stellar meal. The flavor is lacking (my friend thinks something is off about it, but I don’t agree) and there’s nothing to hold the dessert together.  On the other hand, the coconut sorbet is quite good, so at least I’m left with some sweet satisfaction.  All in all we have enjoyed an excellent meal with impeccable service, exceeding our expectations.

Equinox quince crisp

Equinox quince crisp

I am left wondering about that Washington Post review.  Was Tom Sietsema totally off base? A few days after our dinner, I have an opportunity speak with owner Ellen Kassoff about how things are going post the Post review.

“Every review is an opportunity to review ourselves, who we are, and what we are doing.  While criticisms can be harsh, we welcome them,” she says.  She believes that Equinox is held to an extremely high standard because of her husband’s length of experience.  It was difficult for him to hand over the title of Executive Chef.  Sietsema agrees saying the appointment of Nicholas in that role ”suggests a veteran chef admirably willing to let go of some ego.”

Following the review Kassoff said that she felt some initial anger, but subsequently they took an opportunity to reexamine what they ultimately wanted for their restaurant.  As a result, Chef Gray has reclaimed the kitchen.  The menu has gone back to  its roots (more hearty and rustic food) and Gray is doing more of the cooking and working to mentor Nicolas.

The good news for Equinox is that loyal customers haven’t left.  They seem to be more loyal than ever. Kassoff says Equinox is having  one of its best years and the love and support they are hearing from their customers are helping staff through what was initially a very tough time.  Kassoff notes that it is easy to get distracted by what’s written in print and online.  “We just have to get back in the kitchen.”  Reviews and online comments can be combative and cantankerous but as Kassoff says “It’s just dinner.  People really just need to be nicer to each other.”

I am surprised by this conversation, as I truly expected a blasting of the critic rather than a story about taking criticism to heart.  No one likes getting a bad review. But you have to admire restaurant owners who use it  as an opportunity to move forward, rather than dwelling on the negative.  A lesson I hope I can apply the next time someone throws some disapproval my way.

Equinox, 818 Connecticut Avenue, NW, Washington, DC

Washington Post review

Washingtonian’s 100 Very Best Restaurants 2012

Equinox on Urbanspoon

the perks of dining with a wine writer

the perks of dining with a wine guy

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Not always caring about sharing at Cork Wine Bar

July 20, 2012 By 1 Comment

There is nothing I enjoy more than sharing a meal with friends. In fact this quote by writer Michael Pollan says it all:

“The shared meal elevates eating from a mechanical process of fueling the body to a ritual of family and community, from the mere animal biology to an act of culture.”
― Michael Pollan, In Defense of Food: An Eater’s Manifesto

But I’m starting to tire of, and maybe even resent, small plates.  I’m with five friends at Cork Wine Bar in Logan Circle.  One of my friends remarks, “I miss the days when I had my own plate of food.” I have to agree.  Why do I always need to share what I’m eating and turn a dish over to someone else before I’m ready? This feeling is intensified at Cork, where much of the food is so good that I’m not happy to part with it.

We are seated upstairs and enjoying the fact that the noise level up here is manageable. On the other hand, it is so dark that using a flashlight to read the menu is mandatory.  We are relieved to see that a young couple at an adjacent table is also resorting to supplemental lighting.  We eagerly interpret this to mean that our inability to see isn’t necessarily related to our age.

Things start off a little rough. We don’t love the bottle of wine we’ve selected.  Since Cork has a selection of 50 different wines by the glass, perhaps sharing a bottle of wine isn’t the way to go. Rookie mistake, and we’re a little disappointed. However, as our dishes begin to arrive, we settle into a happy groove.

Avocado with pistachios, toasted pistachio oil, sea salt, and grilled bread quickly makes us turn our attention to the food.  Avocado lovers take note: don’t miss this.  The avocado is a deserving star.

Cork avocado

I am not a fan of calamari, so I don’t think I’m going to partake in this particular dish.  But I can’t resist when I hear the reactions of my fellow diners, which include a series of oohs and ahs.  I gingerly take a bite and then happily take a few more of the light and crispy tendrils.  Thankfully, we’ve ordered a large portion and my friends are willing to share.

My favorite dish is the miticrema bruschetta with grilled summer squash and fried pickles.  The Miticrema, a sweet and creamy sheep’s milk cheese, oozes out from under the squash which is followed by a tangy shock of flavor from the pickles.  This elicits a round of hearty “yums.”

 

Cork miticrema bruschetta

Duck confit with fava beans, carrots, pickled cherries, and quinoa is another winner.  I’m grateful that only four of us are splitting this, as it gives me a better opportunity to savor the flavor.

Cork duck confit

The group order results in two dishes that I’m not terribly excited about:  marcona almond and carrot salad as well as arugula salad with basil, mint, figs, shallot vinaigrette, and parmesan. They both end up being terrifically fresh and far more complex than I could have imagined.

Tortellini with tomato confit, shallots, and tomato water is a special.  This sounds so good that we order two. The portion is small, so I’m a bit wistful after biting into a tortellini that bursts open to dispense a delicious savory liquid.

Cork tortellini

I find one dish fairly distasteful.  The sauteed exotic mushrooms with Madeira and marjoram are too salty.  Our server overhears our comment, and without a word another portion is delivered to our table.  The second order has less salt, but I still find the flavor somewhat soapy.  The opinion of the group is split.  Some enjoy it.  In this case, I happily forgo my portion.

Cork mushrooms

I have to leave before dessert but I’m told that this is a highlight of the meal, particularly goat cheese cake with fresh berries and cookie crumble.  I’m sad to have missed out, but hearing this means that I am resolved for a return visit that’s sooner rather than later.

There really is nothing more satisfying than sharing a meal with others.   At Cork, I’d simply prefer the sharing to be a little less literal.

 

Cork Wine Bar, 1720 14th Street, NW

 Washington Post review

 Washingtonian‘s 100 Best Restaurants 2012
Cork Wine Bar on Urbanspoon

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Something special at Bethesda’s Bistro Provence

May 10, 2012 By Leave a Comment

There is one question I get asked more than any other.  Where should I go for a special occasion meal in Bethesda? I have a tough time coming up with a response to this, because there are lots of pretty good places to eat in Bethesda, but special occasion/destination worthy?  Not so much.

So when my husband and I join two other couples for dinner at  Bistro Provence, I am holding out hope that Chef Yannick Cam can provide a possible answer to the Bethesda question.   If anyone can, it’s Cam.

Chef Cam was a celebrity chef in DC before there really was such a thing.  He was Executive Chef at  a number of critically acclaimed high-end French restaurants in DC, including Le Pavillon and Le Paradou. I have not always been the biggest fan of French food, but it’s been growing on me lately. So, I’m happy to give the two-year old Bistro Provence a try. One couple has dined here recently, and look forward to returning. It’s a good sign.

It’s February when we decide to make a reservation for May, to take advantage of the beautiful garden setting.  Unfortunately, we would have been better off in February.  Our May outing turns out to be on a particularly cold and dreary evening.  We are seated in the upstairs dining room, which appears to have once been someone’s living quarters.  At least that’s the only explanation I can come up with for the presence of a washing machine on the side of the dining room.  Despite this, it’s a lovely room, although the noise level is extremely high.  We are at a round table, which usually facilitates conversation.  I’m having trouble hearing the people across from me.

Bistro Provence

I’m adjusting to the sound level and perusing the menu.  I’m surprised at the prices.  Most of the appetizers start at $14 and go up from there.  I rule out an interesting sounding foie gras at $24.50.  There are still plenty of appealing choices, but I’m in one of those modes when I can’t make up my mind.  We’re also struggling to pick a somewhat moderately priced bottle of wine.  The waiter is French and serious, and someone who I can imagine has worked with Chef Cam for many years.  He appears to be growing somewhat impatient with our indecision.

I realize this is starting to sound like I’m talking about a meal that doesn’t end well.  I was thinking the same thing at this point of the evening.  Then my food starts to arrive.

My first course is risotto with tomato confit, saffron, and roasted shrimp.  It’s a generous portion, which I easily could have split with someone else.  The shrimp are cooked just right, and the risotto benefits from the saffron which is distinguishable but not overpowering.  It’s a bit rich, and I can’t finish the dish. But it’s a satisfying starter that turns my uncertainly at the start of the meal into an eagerness for what’s ahead.

Bistro Provence Risotto with Shrimp

I’m hearing positive comments from my fellow diners.  My husband enjoys arugula salad with salt packed anchovies and parmesan reggianno.  It’s simple, but these ingredients don’t need much enhancement to make them taste good.

Bistro Provence Arugula Salad

My main course is a game changer.  I ask for the server to direct me to something on the high end of the flavor scale.  He he has one word for me….bouillabaisse.  (Its even more appealing when pronounced with a French accent.) Server knows what he is talking about. It’s chock full of sea scallops, shrimp, and sea bass.  The seafood is plentiful and perfectly cooked.  But it is the broth that distinguishes this dish with notes of pernod and fennel.  Each dip of the spoon brings forth something just a little bit different than the taste that comes before it.  It’s one of those dishes that you can still taste hours later.   The memory makes me want to immediately head back to Bistro Provence for more.

 

Bistro Provence bouillabaisse

One of my friends tastes the bouillabaisse and can’t get over it.  Throughout the rest of the evening he alternates between saying “I should have ordered the bouillabaisse” to “I have to go back for the bouillabaisse.”  It feels good to be the person with the most coveted dish at the table.

My husband isn’t quite as effusive about the grilled salmon with ratatouille and basil.  He enjoys the fish and vegetables, but the salmon is a tad dry.

 

Bistro Provence Grilled Salmon

Other dishes at the table are herb roasted chicken, and veal chop with artichoke and sage jus.  The chicken is described as tender and delicious, and the veal chop is a hit as well. I know I should be paying closer attention to what is being said about the food, but I am too absorbed in savoring my own dish.

Bistro Provence Chicken

We opt out of dessert, which doesn’t please the server.  It’s not that the options have no appeal, but we’re planning to change venues.  The way I look at it, it gives me some unknown territory to explore, because I know I’m having bouillabaisse on a return visit.

Just this morning a colleague asks “where should I go for an anniversary dinner?  I don’t really want to go downtown.”  I hesitate because I’ve gotten used to doing so when asked this question.  Then I remember.  I have an answer.  Bistro Provence and the terrifically special bouillabaisse.

Bistro Provence, 4933 Fairmont Avenue, Bethesda, MD

Washingtonian‘s 100 Very Best Restaurants 2012, 2 1/2 stars out of 4

The Washington Post review

Bistro Provence on Urbanspoon

 

 


Filed Under: Bistro Provence, MD Dining Tagged With: , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Ramping up the flavor at Baltimore’s Woodberry Kitchen

April 26, 2012 By 1 Comment

Birthday celebrations usually result in my spending hours trying to decide where to dine.  There’s no better excuse for ramping up to a high-end dining experience.  This year the location for my husband’s birthday dinner planned itself.  I am heading back from a quick trip to Cleveland on a flight that gets into BWI just in time for dinner.  It’s a no-brainer.  BWI+ Birthday Dinner= Woodberry Kitchen.

Woodberry Kitchen, in Baltimore’s Hampden neighborhood, is actually not a high-end restaurant in the typical sense of the word.  It’s got more funk and down-home appeal than razzle dazzle. But it’s allure is undeniable.  A charming atmosphere, skilled service, and great food put it high on my list.  The fact that this Baltimore restaurant merits a spot on Washingtonian‘s 100 Very Best Restaurants 2012 speaks volumes.  What really makes Woodberry Kitchen so special is Chef Spike Gjerde’s passionate commitment to local sourcing.*  This wouldn’t mean a thing if he didn’t take those local ingredients and execute some pretty fantastic dishes.

My plane is earlier than expected so I try to change our reservation.  No dice.  Fortunately, we are offered a high-top table near the bar as an alternative.  No reservations needed. It doesn’t seem much different from the regular tables a few feet away, so we jump at the offer.

Since we’re now dining on the early side we want to take things slowly.  The cocktail menu offers some enticing options featuring local ingredients whenever feasible.  My drink is the “Second Date” with House spiced rum, Bonal, crushed strawberries, honey, and Stephanie’s bay bitters. The fresh strawberries at the bottom of the glass have me reaching for a spoon. My husband has a “Manhampden” featuring Maryland-style rye, California sweet vermouth, new fashioned bitters, Peychaud’s, and an orange twist.  We enjoy our drinks, taking in the attractive dishes breezing by us, as we try to decide what to order.

Many restaurants boast a farm to table concept.  You know it’s taken seriously at Woodberry Kitchen when you peruse the menu.  Ramps and asparagus are incorporated into nearly every dish, reflecting what’s truly in season at the moment. It takes about five seconds for for me – I mean us- to decide on a starter to share.  I remind myself that it’s my husband’s birthday and this should be his choice. I’m hoping he’ll agree to the asparagus flatbread with green tomato relish, ricotta, and cilantro.  I have to give him time to consider other options, so I hold my breath and wait. Fortunately, he’s in agreement.

My first bite makes me gasp in astonishment.  While I’ve ordered a flatbread with ingredients which I obviously find appealing, I am not quite prepared for flatbread perfection.   The thin and crispy crust is what I always hope for and rarely receive. The combination of ricotta and cilantro surpasses my expectations. What gives the dish added depth is a delicate touch of sweetness created from homemade harvest chutney made from eggplant, tomato, and a selection of winter vegetables.

 

Woodberry Kitchen Flatbread with Asparagus and Ricotta

I’m thinking I should select something with ramps from the supper portion of the menu.  I’ve read countless tweets about ramps lately.  I feel like I should join in on the craze surrounding this suddenly popular wild onion. This shouldn’t be difficult as it’s incorporated in almost every item listed.  Except that the one I have my eye on is Springfield Farm Chicken & Biscuit with braised kale, asparagus, and an herb pan sauce.  No ramps.  I need the server to steer me in the right direction.  She describes the chicken with a gleam in her eye which I cannot resist.   She promises a memorable chicken dish with crisp skin and a tender and juicy interior. The kitchen delivers. The fresh greens and herb-infused sauce render me powerless against my brain, which tells me I am too full to go on.  Just a few more bites, I tell myself, and then I’ll stop.

Woodberry Kitchen Chicken and Biscuit

Meanwhile, my husband is enjoying his entree of Cherry Glen ricotta dumplings with asparagus, ramp leaves, turnips, scallion broth, and ‘allegheny’ cheese.  The flavor is more delicate than my dish, but there’s something alluring about the chewy, slightly crispy around the edges, texture of the dumplings.  I’m coveting more than just a taste.  Plus, this dish has ramps.

Woodberry Kitchen Cherry Glen ricotta dumplings

Dessert is an easy choice when we are told that the strawberry rhubarb cobbler features rhubarb delivered that very day. Plus it’s topped with fresh cream ice cream.  Fresh and fresher.  It has slipped my mind that I mention my husband’s birthday when my reservation is confirmed.  The staff at Woodberry Kitchen, however, remember.

 

Woodberry Kitchen Strawberry Rhubarb Cobbler

Fresh, local, seasonal, sustainable, farm-to-table, slow food.  These are concepts that are being embraced by chefs around the country, as they should be.  Woodberry Kitchen takes them to a higher level.  One where you feel good about the food you are eating, and where flavor and value run rampant.

Woodberry Kitchen, 2010 Clipper Park Road, Baltimore, MD
Washingtonian review

*A recent article by David Hagedorn in The Washington Post  details how Spike Gjerde’s commitment to local sourcing plays out at Woodberry Kitchen.

Woodberry Kitchen on Urbanspoon

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Filed Under: Around the US, Woodberry Kitchen Tagged With: , , , , , , ,

CityZen: Getting Much More Than My Just Desserts

March 28, 2012 By 3 Comments

Cityzen photo: http://missvannette.webs.com/

There was never a question about where my husband and I would dine in celebration of our  29th wedding anniversary.  At least not in my mind.  It is CityZen Restaurant at the Mandarin Oriental all the way.  Never mind that it is the only restaurant in DC with a AAA Five Diamond Award, ranked #6 in Washingtonian‘s 100 Very Best Restaurants 2012, and that Chef Eric Ziebold is inarguably one of DC’s finest chefs. That’s important, of course.  But a driving factor in the decision is that we’re long overdue to dine here after last summer’s dessert tasting with CityZen’s pastry chef Matthew Petersen, who was featured on Top Chef Just Desserts.  Matthew’s desserts and his charm won him fan favorite and $10,000.  (Here’s a link to my post if you missed it.)  How did it take this long for me to get here for dinner?  Inexplicable!

The restaurant is aware that it is our anniversary and they know that I am a food blogger.  I am not really sure that our server knows, or cares.  I mean this in a good way. She is extremely competent and professional.  I am only hoping for one thing in my non-anonymity.  Seriously.  I want to have the chance to say hello to Matthew.

My husband and I each decide to do a six course tasting menu.  Me: chef’s tasting menu.  Husband: vegetarian tasting menu. I’ve decided to cop out and not write my sentiments about each and every dish. This would take more adjectives and superlatives than my vocabulary can bear.  Instead I am providing a pictorial diary of our meal.  See for yourself the wonder that is dinner at CityZen.

Chef’s Tasting Menu

1. Pacific Hiramasa sashimi with marinated yama imo, salted kohlrabi, navel orange, and wilted spinach salad

2. Soft boiled Path Valley Farms hen egg with scrapple and red eye gravy

Just this once I am going to say something about a specific dish, since it  may be my favorite of the savory dishes.  It is basically breakfast, featuring gravy made with coffee and bits of ham. I am wary since I don’t normally like soft boiled eggs, and the description doesn’t actually appeal to me.  But I decide to be a big girl and make an exception.  It’s a good decision, as this dish is exceptional.  I need to remember to go outside of the box more often.

3.  Spiced Maine lobster salad. with celery root coulis, York apple, red radish, watercress, and lobster vinaigrette

4. Felt’s country cured bacon wrapped quail with fines herbes mousseline, celery root linguine with poached Michigan cherries and foie gras emulsion

 5. Slow cooked prime Midwestern beef ribeye with corned beef tongue, savoy cabbage, baby carrots and mustard sabayon.  (Lest you think the4 corned beef and cabbage may be a touch odd- this dinner takes place on St. Patrick’s Day.)

My husband’s vegetarian tasting menu is astounding. At times he is speechless.  I would order it myself on a future visit, which says a lot since I love meat.

Chef’s vegetarian tasting menu

1. Marinated takenoko carpaccio with avocado, water chestnuts, kohlrabi, micro chives, and yuzu shichimi

2. Spring garlic risotto herb roasted hen of the woods mushroom

3.  Belgian endive pappardelle with poached kumquats, pickled turnip, crystallized tarragon and almond milk

4. Roasted brussels sprouts pierogi with whipped Kendall Farms creme fraiche and apple cider broth

5.  Cityzen knoedel with a fricasee of black eye peas, Carolina gold rice, and braised kale

I must rhapsodize about the Parker House rolls made by Chef Petersen, which accompany course five.  They are presented with a well-deserved flourish.   They are melt in your mouth buttery and oh so irresistible.    I want to eat more, but I don’t dare.  But looking at the photo makes me want to return to CityZen….now.

Dessert is an event all on its own.  First there is a pre-dessert of greengage sorbet topped with forbidden rice.  This prepares our palate for the rest of the desserts that follow.  I am well aware that I am now eating food prepared by Chef Petersen, and that I still haven’t actually spoken to him, although I’ve spotted him working in the open kitchen.   Suddenly I look up and he is at our table, with a beautiful plate in his hand.  It is not the desserts we actually ordered, which are also served to us, but instead a special anniversary dessert consisting of a vanilla chiboust (pastry cream) with cherries and crystallized ginger. Be-still my heart.

My “real” dessert is pine nut semifreddo with whipped lemonade, sugared beignet, and champagne vinegar caramel. Matthew tells us that it is a new offering which they have been tinkering with.  After we chat with him for a few minutes he departs, and leaves us to enjoy his work.  I am totally focused on the flavors when I notice him peering at me from the open kitchen awaiting my reaction.  Thumbs up! I particularly love the candied pine  nuts,  which provide a delicious crunch. The whipped lemonade is slightly tart, and not too sweet. I think this dessert is a keeper!

 

My husband has kalamansi lime souffle with ginger streusel and whole milk ice cream. As someone who adores the pairing of ginger and citrus, I am quite the fan of this dessert.

We are not quite done.  The post dessert features a small selection of truffles and candied gels.  Now it’s a perfect ending.

Six courses are each impeccably executed and display a level of consistent finesse that is difficult to attain.  The savory dishes are matched wonderfully with the sweet in both caliber and sophistication. While every single dish has its own distinct flavor profile, each dish has complexity, and a beautiful interplay of textures and tastes. I am almost relieved that Chef Ziebold and Chef Petersen have lived up to the high expectations I have set for them, even though I knew they would.

We are sent home with a parting gift in honor of our anniversary:  a gift bag containing a coffee cake and tea for us to enjoy in the morning.  I like that I get to anticipate the lingering satisfaction of the meal for a little while longer.  I can’t imagine a sweeter or more special way to celebrate our anniversary.  The memories will never desert us.

 

CityZen, 1330 Maryland Avenue, SW, Washington, DC
Washington Post review
Washingtonian‘s 100 Very Best Restaurants 2012, #6, 3 1/2 stars (out of 4)

 

 

CityZen on Urbanspoon

Filed Under: CityZen, Washington DC dining Tagged With: , , , , , , ,

The Hot and Cool Little Serow

December 29, 2011 By 3 Comments

December 2012.  It’s been almost a year since my first dinner at Little Serow.  This really is far too long between visits, but easy to get to it isn’t.  For one thing, I am limited on the number of people who will go with me to this “eat whatever is put before you, because there are no substitutions” restaurant.  I finally am set to go with five friends until we realize that Little Serow only accepts parties of four.  Awkward.  Three people end up bowing out, and I feel guilty but relieved that two friends will still accompany me.  The no reservations policy means getting there early (4:30 pm) and standing in line for an hour for the first seating.  It is certainly possible to time your arrival for a later seating, but we aren’t so willing to put our name down and sit in a bar for an hour or two.  Despite the fact the eating here involves a carefully planned strategy, perhaps it’s part of what captivates and thrills me about Little Serow.

It’s also one of the hottest restaurants in town.  Bon Appétit recently named it one of the ten best new restaurants in America.  On my second visit, we experience the hotness in more ways than one.

The menu at Little Serow changes weekly, so you never really know what to expect, although is posted on the website.  Some favorites this time around are:  ma hor with sour fruit, dried shrimp and palm sugar.  Like almost every dish at Little Serow, it’s spicy, but this has a welcome sweetness to cut into the spice.  Tom kha pla duk is soup with catfish, galangal, and kaffir lime.  It’s a favorite of the night with its blend of savory and sour.  Make sure to dine with people with whom you are comfortable, as you will all be diving into one bowl of soup. Last year’s menu featured nam tuk tow hu, which is tofu with mint, scallion, and rice powder.  It’s here again, but none of us remember the dish being so explosive.  It is searing to the tongue, with heat that increases long after you’ve taken your last bite.  It takes us a while to recover.  This slightly dampens my friends’ enthusiasm about the experience.  I wouldn’t mind if the dish was taken down a notch on the heat-o-meter, but nothing can mar my enjoyment of this dinner.  Pork ribs with mekhong whiskey and dill settle us all back into a happy place.

Little Serow is among my very favorite DC restaurants.  So what if the food makes me cry.  These are most definitely tears of joy.

 

December 29, 2011  “When I grow up, I want to be cool like you.”  Oh yes, these are the words spoken to three friends and I by a server at Little Serow.  Our gushing about the food created by Chef Johnny Monis at his exciting new restaurant is definitely entertaining the staff.  Can we be the only people to be so enthralled with the place or at least to be so vocal about it? I doubt it.  Can we be cool because we’re the oldest patrons to express such abject appreciation?  Perhaps.  We certainly increase the average age of the diners on this particular night.  But I’m going to pretend I didn’t hear the age reference and dwell on the fact that someone thinks we are cool.  If dining here makes us so, then we’ll take it.

Little Serow is the new sibling to DC’s #1-rated restaurant Komi.  It is a seven-course prix fixe meal featuring dishes from Northern Thailand. There are quite a few no’s that go with this experience.  No reservations, no sign on the door, no telephone, no ordering (it’s a set menu), and absolutely no substitutions.  This isn’t a deterrent for me but it leaves out some of my frequent dining companions, including my husband. No flash photographs allowed means no photos to accompany my review.  Although I’m allowed to take photos without a flash, it is far too dark to have anything usable.

Little Serow’s menu changes every Monday.  If you don’t like something you see, wait a week.  It may be replaced with something else to suit your fancy.

Here’s what we had:
khaep muu
green chilies / bla rah / shrimp paste
laap pla duk
catfish / shallots / chiles
nam tok tow hu
tofu / mint / rice powder
kanom bung na gapi
shrimp / cilantro root / sesame seeds
sai oua
pork sausage / kaffir / basil
neua grapao
Wagyu brisket / duck egg / basil
si krong muu
pork ribs / Mekhong whiskey / crispy garlic

At the outset we are served a plate with assorted fresh vegetables and a basket of sticky rice.  We’re invited to scoop out the rice with our hands. These are the palate cleansers, to be enjoyed between courses as a standalone or to sop up some of the delicious sauces. We’re intrigued.

Two of my three friends are not necessarily fond of extremely spicy food, so I am a bit wary of how this is going to play out.  But attitude is everything and we decide in advance that we are going to be “big girls” and try everything that’s put before us.  As it turns out, there is nothing on this particular menu that challenges my comfort zone. To the contrary.  Everything on the menu appeals to my taste buds in every way.  We all comment about what a nice change of pace it is to not have to make any ordering decisions.  It is almost a relief for me, as at times ordering causes me undue pressure.  Here I can sit back and relax.

As the meal progresses, we get more and more rambunctious.  It may be partly a result of our consumption of wine, but it has more to do with the awakening of our senses.  By the time we get to the sausage with kaffir and basil my friend exclaims loudly “this is excruciatingly delicious.”  A server overhears the comment and relays it to Chef  Johnny.  We’re invited back to meet him when we finish eating.

The meal is a progression of bold flavors and contrasting textures.  The adjectives at our table are flying:  intense, complex, aromatic, unique, a crescendo of flavors, perfection.

The atmosphere at Little Serow is simple and understated.  You sit on stools at high tables in a simple room with concrete walls painted green. In another restaurant, it may be too simple.  Here it is simply…cool.

The end of the meal comes far too quickly.  As a final taste we are presented with a small cube of sticky rice with coconut custard.  It’s delicious but we all agree we want more. It’s a slight dip in a night of many highs.   

One of the things I like best about Little Serow is that it is reasonable at $45 for a seven-course meal.  This makes it approachable for adventurous diners, and because of the changing menu can easily can be enjoyed on multiple occasions.  

We are escorted back to the small open kitchen where we fawn over Johnny and his food.  There are hugs for the servers (which is when we get the “cool” comment) and sadly our night is done.  While we may be cool, I guess we are also old because it’s a little after 7:00 pm, and we’re already heading back to the suburbs.

Little Serow, 1511 17th Street, NW, Washington, DC
My rating (on a 1-5 scale):  4.8
Washingtonian‘s 100 Very Best Restaurants 2012, 3 stars (out of 4)

Washington Post review


Little Serow on Urbanspoon

Filed Under: DC dining, Little Serow Tagged With: , , , , , ,
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