Popping in to Mike Isabella’s Bandolero for a sneak peek

April 29, 2012 By 1 Comment

I intended to wait until Mike Isabella’s new restaurant Bandolero settled in to its spot in Georgetown before trying it.  Because normally you have to wait for a restaurant to actually open before you can eat there.  But the Bandolero at Tackle Box pop-up  offers a sneak peek into the upcoming small-plates Mexican restaurant.  As a professed super-fan of Isabella’s Graffiato, I decide a preview is just what I need to tide me over until the opening.

The email from City Eats offers a $65 five-course tasting menu.  The website indicates the menus is a “surprise that will be revealed when you dine.”  This means I must dip into the small pool of my regular dining companions who have no strict food restrictions or aversions.  This eliminates a lot of people.  But I know just who to ask, and I end up with three friends who are ready to eat with abandon.  So when the server asks us if we have any dining restrictions, we smile and reply:  “No, we left them at home,” referring to our kosher-keeping husbands.  The tasting menu actually features some vegetarian and fish choices which would have been fine for them. On the bright side, we have nothing to prevent us from ordering blue crab taquitos or suckling pig tacos. Guilt free.

In an interview for Washingtonian’s Best Bites column, Isabella has promised that Bandolero will offer a generous selection of margaritas.  My toughest decision of the night is which one to order.  I finally settle on “Our Way” which features tequila, lime, blood orange, and gran marnier float.  The server warns that this packs quite a punch.  I sip it slowly and handle it just fine. One of my friends has “Malverde” with mezcal, agave, cucumber, lime, cilantro, and hellfire bitters.  The cucumber taste is quite strong and I find the drink really quite unpleasant.  But don’t go by me- I tend to like fruity drinks.  Another friend has “Smoked” which is a margarita with patron, orange curacao, lime, and mezcal float.  You can take this recommendation with a grain of salt, but I prefer “Our Way.”

Bandolero Our Way margarita

Our cocktails are accompanied by chicharrones (fried pork rinds) and chips, along with guacamole and a small side of salsa.  In addition there is a gritty dip called “sikil pak” made from pumpkin seed, jalapeno, orange, and cilantro.  It has a subtle taste at first, but there is a spicy finish that sneaks up on you.  I like that there is variation from the typical chips and salsa we’ve all come to expect from Mexican restaurants across the U.S.

bandolero sikil pak photo courtesy of junkfoodguy.com

The small plates concept has its perils.  I often am frustrated when sharing with too many people, which means I only get a bite or two of a dish. The dishes here come mostly in three to an order (three taquitos, three tacos, etc).  This means we are left with an awkward splitting situation, since we are four people.  We double up on a couple of dishes which we anticipate we’ll like best. But that means we get to try fewer dishes.  It’s a conundrum.

It’s important to note that the tastes and experiences at Bandolero at Tackle Box can only be judged in context.  Some of the dishes may not make it to Georgetown.  Others will be tweaked.  In keeping with the theme of the pop-up, I’m going to provide a glimpse at a few of our favorites.

The enchilida roja is my favorite on the traditional section of the menu. The Mexican chocolate infuses it with just enough sweetness to be satisfying.   It’s a nice size portion, so I don’t have to feel frustrated by having a teensy bite.

Bandolero enchilada roja

Our next dishes are taquitos: tuna with ginger and sweet potato, and blue crab with coconut, red chile, and lime.  I like the flavor combinations in both of these, although if truth be told, I’d like a touch more heat with the blue crab.

Bandolero taquitos

I can’t decide which of the next two dishes I like best.

Sucking pig tacos are worthy of all those descriptive words that usually make me cringe.  Yummy comes immediately to mind.  Hate the word.  Understand the sentiment.  Juicy meat, sweet crispy apple, spicy habanero mustard.  Y-U-M-M-Y.  I hate myself now, but I can’t help it.

bandolero suckling pig taco. photo courtesy of www.junkfoodguy.com

The sopes with lamb picadillo, chipotle goat cheese, and picked jalapeno is another big winner.  I am thankful we’ve ordered two portions of this dish,  because I need extra bites to confirm its excellence.  The sweetness of the raisins, the crispness of the sopes, the smoky lamb, and the creamy goat cheese, make for one great taste.  Excellence confirmed.

 

Bandolero sopes

As part of the tasting menu we each get to pick a dessert.  There are four choices, so obviously we order one of each.  Two desserts feature coconut, which means I’m out.  My friends rave about the coconut cookies, but I am not swayed to try them.  I really detest coconut.  This leaves me to sample tres leches parfait and spicy mango gelato.  The gelato is texturally fine, but I don’t detect much spice.  The parfait is a refreshing end to the meal.

Mike Isabella is clearly eager to share Bandolero with us.  He’s smartly created advance buzz for what is certain to become a popular destination. I am definitely intrigued by his blend of traditional Mexican flavors along with some unexpected creative twists along the way.  It’s nice to be able to pop in to Bandolero for a preview.  At the end of this week, however, it will be time to say adios to Bandolero at Tackle Box, and await the word on when we can say “hola” to the real thing.  Muchas gracias, Mike Isabella.  We’ll be waiting.

The Bandolero at Tackle Box pop-up is open from May 1- May 5.  Check out CityEats for a reservation. 
Bandolero, 3241 M Street NW, Washington, DC (the opening date of Bandolero is not yet known.)
A link to my Graffiato review

Bandolero - Coming Soon on Urbanspoon

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Filed Under: Bandolero, DC dining, Washington DC dining Tagged With: , , , , , ,

Ramping up the flavor at Baltimore’s Woodberry Kitchen

April 26, 2012 By 1 Comment

Birthday celebrations usually result in my spending hours trying to decide where to dine.  There’s no better excuse for ramping up to a high-end dining experience.  This year the location for my husband’s birthday dinner planned itself.  I am heading back from a quick trip to Cleveland on a flight that gets into BWI just in time for dinner.  It’s a no-brainer.  BWI+ Birthday Dinner= Woodberry Kitchen.

Woodberry Kitchen, in Baltimore’s Hampden neighborhood, is actually not a high-end restaurant in the typical sense of the word.  It’s got more funk and down-home appeal than razzle dazzle. But it’s allure is undeniable.  A charming atmosphere, skilled service, and great food put it high on my list.  The fact that this Baltimore restaurant merits a spot on Washingtonian‘s 100 Very Best Restaurants 2012 speaks volumes.  What really makes Woodberry Kitchen so special is Chef Spike Gjerde’s passionate commitment to local sourcing.*  This wouldn’t mean a thing if he didn’t take those local ingredients and execute some pretty fantastic dishes.

My plane is earlier than expected so I try to change our reservation.  No dice.  Fortunately, we are offered a high-top table near the bar as an alternative.  No reservations needed. It doesn’t seem much different from the regular tables a few feet away, so we jump at the offer.

Since we’re now dining on the early side we want to take things slowly.  The cocktail menu offers some enticing options featuring local ingredients whenever feasible.  My drink is the “Second Date” with House spiced rum, Bonal, crushed strawberries, honey, and Stephanie’s bay bitters. The fresh strawberries at the bottom of the glass have me reaching for a spoon. My husband has a “Manhampden” featuring Maryland-style rye, California sweet vermouth, new fashioned bitters, Peychaud’s, and an orange twist.  We enjoy our drinks, taking in the attractive dishes breezing by us, as we try to decide what to order.

Many restaurants boast a farm to table concept.  You know it’s taken seriously at Woodberry Kitchen when you peruse the menu.  Ramps and asparagus are incorporated into nearly every dish, reflecting what’s truly in season at the moment. It takes about five seconds for for me – I mean us- to decide on a starter to share.  I remind myself that it’s my husband’s birthday and this should be his choice. I’m hoping he’ll agree to the asparagus flatbread with green tomato relish, ricotta, and cilantro.  I have to give him time to consider other options, so I hold my breath and wait. Fortunately, he’s in agreement.

My first bite makes me gasp in astonishment.  While I’ve ordered a flatbread with ingredients which I obviously find appealing, I am not quite prepared for flatbread perfection.   The thin and crispy crust is what I always hope for and rarely receive. The combination of ricotta and cilantro surpasses my expectations. What gives the dish added depth is a delicate touch of sweetness created from homemade harvest chutney made from eggplant, tomato, and a selection of winter vegetables.

 

Woodberry Kitchen Flatbread with Asparagus and Ricotta

I’m thinking I should select something with ramps from the supper portion of the menu.  I’ve read countless tweets about ramps lately.  I feel like I should join in on the craze surrounding this suddenly popular wild onion. This shouldn’t be difficult as it’s incorporated in almost every item listed.  Except that the one I have my eye on is Springfield Farm Chicken & Biscuit with braised kale, asparagus, and an herb pan sauce.  No ramps.  I need the server to steer me in the right direction.  She describes the chicken with a gleam in her eye which I cannot resist.   She promises a memorable chicken dish with crisp skin and a tender and juicy interior. The kitchen delivers. The fresh greens and herb-infused sauce render me powerless against my brain, which tells me I am too full to go on.  Just a few more bites, I tell myself, and then I’ll stop.

Woodberry Kitchen Chicken and Biscuit

Meanwhile, my husband is enjoying his entree of Cherry Glen ricotta dumplings with asparagus, ramp leaves, turnips, scallion broth, and ‘allegheny’ cheese.  The flavor is more delicate than my dish, but there’s something alluring about the chewy, slightly crispy around the edges, texture of the dumplings.  I’m coveting more than just a taste.  Plus, this dish has ramps.

Woodberry Kitchen Cherry Glen ricotta dumplings

Dessert is an easy choice when we are told that the strawberry rhubarb cobbler features rhubarb delivered that very day. Plus it’s topped with fresh cream ice cream.  Fresh and fresher.  It has slipped my mind that I mention my husband’s birthday when my reservation is confirmed.  The staff at Woodberry Kitchen, however, remember.

 

Woodberry Kitchen Strawberry Rhubarb Cobbler

Fresh, local, seasonal, sustainable, farm-to-table, slow food.  These are concepts that are being embraced by chefs around the country, as they should be.  Woodberry Kitchen takes them to a higher level.  One where you feel good about the food you are eating, and where flavor and value run rampant.

Woodberry Kitchen, 2010 Clipper Park Road, Baltimore, MD
Washingtonian review

*A recent article by David Hagedorn in The Washington Post  details how Spike Gjerde’s commitment to local sourcing plays out at Woodberry Kitchen.

Woodberry Kitchen on Urbanspoon

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


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Philadelphia: Jewish Geography at Zahav

April 19, 2012 By 4 Comments

When you’re Jewish it’s rare to meet another Jewish person with whom you don’t know someone in common.  We’re all connected.  Which is why it’s hard to resist playing “Jewish geography” with each other.  This becomes evident on a day trip to Philadelphia with a group of friends.

We are in Philly to visit the National Museum of American Jewish History.  One of our favorite sections is on Jewish camping, where you can look through photos from Jewish camps around the country.  We are delighted to find familiar faces in the photos from a local camp.  Overall we enjoy the museum, but agree that it has a bit more “breadth than depth.” But if you are in Philadelphia, it’s certainly worth spending a few hours exploring.  And I highly recommend the gift shop, where I purchased a beautiful pair of earrings from Israeli designer Dori Csengeri.

I am really in Philadelphia so that I can dine at Zahav, which is a modern Israeli restaurant.  When people ask me for recommendations in Philadelphia, I always say Zahav, despite the fact I’ve never been there.  But I’m confident in the press I’ve read, and the  personal accounts from the people I’ve sent.  Plus, Chef Michael Solomonov won the James Beard Award for Best Mid-Atlantic Chef, 2011.  My own hype is starting to get to me.  I must try it for myself.

We enter Zahav and we are transported to Israel.  A colorful mural of the crowded Mahane Yehuda market  makes each of us smile at the memories.  I’ve actually been to Israel with every person in our group at one time or another, so it’s even more reminiscent.

Zahav just before 5:00 pm opening

We eliminate the long process of deciding what to order by having the Tay’im tasting menu, which includes salatim (salads) and hummus, two mezze, one skewer, and dessert.

First up is the laffa (bread) and hummus, delivered on a cutting board topped with a clipping from an Israeli newspaper.  It adds a touch of authenticity.  The warm laffa is light and airy, with accompanying hummus that is smooth and slightly tart.  There are optional seasonings for added interest including zatar (which is not my favorite spice), and zhoug which is made of hot green peppers, garlic, oil, spices and tons of coriander.  I don’t care what my husband says (he doesn’t think it’s that spicy), the rest of us are on fire.   Our senses have been properly awakened.

Zahav laffa and hummus

The salatim are delivered on a towering tray by a server with an Israeli accent.  One of my friends begins a dialogue with him:

“Where are you from?” she says.
“Israel,” he answers.
“Yes, but where?”
“North.”
“OK, where in the north?”  she asks.
“Near the Galillee.”  Is this guy not getting that we are somewhat familiar with his land?
“Where?”  This game is getting exhausting.
“Tel Katzir” he finally says, naming a small kibbutz near the Sea of Galillee.
“Ah,” she smiles.  “I worked at that kibbutz in 1979.

Despite the fact that my friend was there before he was even born, with just a few names mentioned they know people in common.  When Jewish geography works, it really works!

The Israeli server leaves us to our salatim, which have us oohing and ahhing.  We have two towers of salad between us, so we don’t have to fight over our food.  The small dishes include cucumber salad, Moroccan carrots, eggplant, taboulleh, fennel salad, and bamya (okra salad).  While the names of the salads sound familiar to us, the tastes are distinct.  The concentrated flavors of sumac, mint, cumin, fenugreek, cilantro, coriander, fennel, and zhoug transform representative Middle Eastern fare into something wondrous.  We are elated by the food, but also because this restaurant feels so comfortable – and comforting.

We have only a few moments before our mezze arrive.  We  prepare for the onslaught of flavors.  We’ve seated ourselves with the three meat eaters at one end of the table and the four pescaterians at the other, so that we can more easily share our dishes.  There’s no need on the first dish.  We have three orders of fried cauliflower with labaneh (yogurt cheese), chive, dill, mint and garlic. There is admiration all around for the crisped cauliflower, which is wonderfully balanced by the cool savory yogurt.

 

Zahav fried cauliflower

I am a bit tentative in my approach to a dish called kibbe naya, which is raw lamb with bulgur and artichokes.  I am a lamb lover, but am hesitant about eating it raw.  Silly me.  There’s enough flavor here to make me forget my reticence and reach for more.

On the herbivore side of the table, they are enjoying crispy haloumi with English peas, pine nuts, and ramps.  I take a bite, just to make sure they’re not missing out on the greatness we’re experiencing.  They are not.  It’s slightly salty, and the texture of the haloumi is meaty.

Zahav Crispy Haloumi

I am excited about the Jerusalem kugel,which is a savory noodle kugel with brisket and sour cherries.   I would have liked it a touch sweeter and with a few more morsels of brisket.  It’s not a fail by any means, but it is my least favorite of the mezze, because it doesn’t quite live up to the vision I’ve conjured up in my mind.

Zahav Jerusalem Kugel

 

A few people in our group order golden beet salad with ramps, Bulgarian feta, and blood orange.  I’ve had too many beets during Passover, so I pass this dish over.  I  feel some regret now, as this looks stunning and reports are that the taste lives up to the appearance.

Zahav Golden Beet Salad

The next course is “al ha’esh” (grilled over coals).  The meat eaters have duck kebab with pistachios and saffron, kofte with ground beef and lamb, and chicken shishlik with figs, almonds, and carrot pilaf .  Each dish is distinct in its flavor profiles, while at the same time sharing a Middle Eastern flair.  It is impossible to select a favorite.  They are equal in their deliciousness.  It must be noted that the food at Zahav is best for lovers of strong flavors.  There is nothing timid about these ingredients, which is exactly why I’m such a fan.

Zahav duck kabob

Zahav kofte

Zahav chicken shishlik

The fish eaters are enjoying crispy branzino with black-eyed peas, apple, and celery root, along with spiced eggplant with couscous, mushrooms, and tehina.  At Zahav there is no shame or compromise in not eating meat.

Zahav crispy branzino

 

Zahav spiced eggplant

Since everyone in our group of seven is entitled to a dessert, we have the luxury of being served all five of the menu options which include:  almond semifreddo; halva with pomegranate, chocolate, and pistachios; kataifi (pastry) with chocolate, labaneh ice cream and mango; apricot rugelach with almonds and Turkish coffee ice cream; and poppyseed cake with white chocolate, banana, and huckleberries.  I must admit that initially none of these choices particularly appeal to me.  There are too many nuts for my taste. But I am surprised at how easily I adjust my attitude. I find myself spooning into each of the desserts with increasing enthusiasm.  (Somehow the only dessert that doesn’t escape the camera is the poppyseed cake.)

Zahav poppyseed cake

 

Zahav is a wonderful restaurant. The food is bright and beautiful.  The service is competent and at the same time not overbearing.  Happily, even though the restaurant is full, the noise level remains tolerable and allows for conversation.  But for those of us who have experienced Israel, it is so much more than a quality dining experience.  It stirs the senses and evokes fond memories of food and culture. As far as geography goes, our journey has taken us to Pennsylvania.  But the truth is that the 2 1/2 hour drive brings us closer to Israel than we ever imagined possible.

Zahav,  237 St. James Place, Philadelphia, PA
Philly.com/food review
Review from Kosher Camembert

 

** Chef Solomonov will soon be opening a Kosher restaurant in Merion, Pa, a suburb of Philadelphia.  Citron and Rose promises to “use kosher practices to create new interpretations of old world Jewish dishes.” The restaurant is expected to open in late summer 2012.

 

Zahav on Urbanspoon

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


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Austin: Don’t Pass Over this…Gourdough’s and more

April 12, 2012 By Leave a Comment

Passover is a holiday that I observe somewhat strictly.  I not only avoid bread, pasta, cake, etc. but also rice, corn (and corn syrup), and legumes to name just a few of the no no’s.  To keep things on the up and up – or kosher-  I avoid eating in restaurants.   This is not easy, as you might imagine.  There are three days remaining before I can return to eating what’s known in Jewish circles as “chometz.”

Since I have no dining excursions from last weekend to write about, I am going to turn into a total hypocrite and focus on something that qualifies as the antithesis to Passover.  Just know that in writing this, I am demonstrating how strong a person I really am.  Because I really want a doughnut right now.

We recently spent a weekend in Austin.  One of the great things about Austin is the food trailers.  (We call them food trucks in these parts, but I guess everything’s bigger in Texas.)  Gourdough’s is on my must visit list.

I am a known doughnut lover, so this is a no-brainer. I peruse the menu and there it is… the ‘Flying Pig’ doughnut. A maple glazed doughnut, topped with strips of bacon.    At first I hesitate.  I’m with five other people and three won’t eat bacon.  This leaves me pleading to the two others.  Will they please share a Flying Pig?  They shake their heads no.  I am on my own.  I think about the many times I have heard about a similar creation at Voodoo Doughnut in Portland.  I’ve recommended Voodoo to others, yet have never been myself.  I bite the bullet.  It’s my turn for the bacon doughnut experience.

I am in pig heaven.  This is a dense, decadent, and delightful doughnut.  It’s huge,  slathered with maple topping and several pieces of bacon. What can be better than this mix of salty and sweet?   It’s big enough for at least three people to share.  I can’t do it justice and end up throwing much of it out, which pains me.  But it is totally worth it.

Lest you get the impression that I am the only one indulging myself, this is not the case.  My friends share the Granny’s Pie doughnut with cream cheese, banana, caramel, and lots of walnuts, which they think is scrumptious, but I’m too busy chowing down on bacon to care.

I vow to come back the next day to try something fruitier.  It doesn’t happen, although a trip to Amy’s Ice Cream does.  I am definitely a better person having experienced the sweet cream with cinnamon toast crunch crush’ns.  My friend orders his with M&M crush’ns.  “Boys or girls?” asks the server.  “What’s the difference?” we ask.  “The boys have nuts,” she replies.  Good one!

 I would be remiss if I didn’t talk about brisket.  Brisket is a must in Austin.  I spend hours debating with myself about whether to eat at the ultra-popular Franklin Barbecue or to take a drive to The Salt Lick.  Which is better?  See what one of my favorite blogger thinks in her post “The Battle of the Barbecue: Salt Lick vs. Franklins.”

Everything I have read leads me to the realization that eating brisket at one of these institutions can require hours of standing in line.  I am not one to shy away from standing in long lines for food, but there are other things to do in Austin.  Outside things. This leads me to a decision, which I know that my fellow travelers appreciate.  We skip the brisket-only places (good news for the non-meat eaters) and instead go to the brunch buffet at Lamberts Downtown Barbecue.  Lamberts is a somewhat upscale setting  (compared to a traditional brisket join), and the brisket is listed on more than a few top-brisket-in-Austin lists.   Indeed, the brown sugar and coffee rubbed brisket is flavorful and tender.  I also find the coriander and maple crusted Berkshire Pork ribs a delectable treat.  The brunch also features some appealing sides including classic new potato salad, jicama And cilantro slaw, deviled eggs with caviar, and chilled asparagus with sherry shallot vinaigrette.  Plus, we can order omelettes, french toast, and pancakes, until we’re completely stuffed. Which of course, we do.  My husband says these are the best blueberry pancakes he’s ever had. I am not advocating you skip a traditional brisket place if you have the time and the fortitude, but this is a darn good option if you don’t.

 

 

I must now return to my matzo meal cookies and my macaroons, at least for a few more days.  I have to confess something.  I really don’t mind this once a year break from eating whatever I please.  I actually find meaning in it, which is something I can’t easily pass over.

Gourdough’s, 1503 S 1st St, Austin, Texas

Amy’s Ice Cream, 2901 S. Lamar, Austin, Texas (see website for other locations)

Lamberts Downtown Barbecue, 401 W. 2nd Street, Austin, Texas

Gourdough's on Urbanspoon

Lambert's Downtown Barbeque on Urbanspoon

 


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Austin: Surrendering control at Uchiko

April 8, 2012 By 6 Comments

Just before the first episode of Top Chef Texas aired last November, my husband and I planned a weekend getaway to Austin with two other couples. As the season progressed and Austin’s Paul Qui stood out as a top contender, the realization grew that we would be able to dine at Uchiko, where Paul is executive-chef.  As Paul’s skills became more evident with each episode, my anticipation of our meal at the Japanese restaurant grew exponentially.  Paul Qui emerged the winner of Top Chef Texas.  And a mere three weeks later our group descends on Uchiko, eager to taste his food.

Immediately upon being seated in view of the open kitchen, I scan the room for a glimpse of Paul. I try to refrain from asking the question which has probably become all too commonplace for the Uchiko staff.  I can’t help myself.  “Will Paul be here tonight?” The answer is no, he is out of town.  Now I can relax and focus on our meal.  The blow is softened by the fact that I will soon be attending an event at DC’s Asia Nine, featuring an Asian fusion cooking demonstration by Paul and fellow Top Chef contestant Edward Lee.

As a cuisine, Japanese food is somewhat foreign to me.  I am not terribly adventurous when it comes to eating sushi, or knowledgeable about the various styles of cooking.  Our affable server, Marco, asks if we are interested in a style of dining called omakase which means “trust me.”  He selects dishes for us from a menu which includes sushi and sashimi, as well as small plates of cool tastings, hot tastings, and more.  We inform him about any dining restrictions.  If we want more of a particular dish, we ask.  If we are full, we tell him.  This requires a leap of faith, and my letting go of a desire for control.  This is a big thing for me.  I look at my husband and friends for affirmation that we are all on board for this experience.  We are.

Two people in our party don’t eat meat or shellfish, one person doesn’t eat pork or fish, three of us (myself included of course) are pretty much up for anything.  This doesn’t phase Marco at all.  He assures us that he will satisfy our varying requirements. I can’t resist pointing to a few things on the menu that are musts.  But then I get a glare from one of my friends because three seconds earlier I declared that I’m letting go.  Wow, this is harder than I thought, but at the same time it is exhilarating.

What follows is a beautifully-paced procession of dishes. These are pictured here in no particular order.  I hope to provide a glimpse into the stunning presentation and originality of the dishes we sampled on our omakase journey.

From the cool tastings side of the menu we have yokai berry: Atlantic salmon, dinosaur kale, Asian pear, and yuzu.  Fairly early in the meal Marco notices that I am furiously trying to write notes in my phone to keep track of our dishes.  He tells me that I can write directly on the menu and take it home. This is somewhat of a relief. Written beside this dish are three letters… OMG. I adore the crispy kale, sweet fruits, and insanely fresh fish.

Uchiko Yokai Berry

I start assigning stars to the dishes I like best.  After awhile I realize that every dish has stars next to it. I finally surrender to the meal, and don’t worry so much about my notes.  I realize this isn’t great for my blog, but definitely enhances my experience.  Sorry readers.

Maguro sashimi and goat cheese with fuji apple, pumpkin seed oil, and black pepper has me thinking.  Who knew that you could add goat cheese to sashimi?  What a brilliant pairing. The crisp apple crunch and the pumpkin seed oil enhance it further.  Can I just say….wow.

Uchiko Maguro Sashimi and Goat Cheese

Hama chili is yellowtail sashimi with sliced thai chili, and orange supremes.  There is a common theme of fresh fish and herbs paired with fragrant oils and some type of exotic fruit that never gets old here.  Bring it on and keep bringing it, Uchiko.

Uchiko Hama Chili

The next section of the menu is agemono, which means deep-fried. Think tempura.  Dishes include tempura nasu: Japanese eggplant crisps with mitsuba and sweet chili sauce.  Tempura onion rings is the dish that feels most familiar to us, although it is far from ordinary. We devour the spicy, crispy rings in mere seconds.

Brussels sprouts with lemon chili are crisp, tart, and spicy. We debate whether the ones we make at home are this good.  Most of us think these are much better, but on this single dish we are not unanimous in finding it unique.  This is the only time during the meal that this will be a subject for debate.  Every other morsel of food is incomparable.

 

Uchiko Brussell Sprouts

The hot tastings portion of the menu includes a hot rock on which you sear a portion of wagyu beef.  This dish is great fun, although I assure the non-meat eaters that they are not missing out on much more than the novelty of the preparation.  (don’t tell them otherwise, I just don’t want them to feel left out).

We are also served Dewberry Hills farm chicken with short grain sweet, rice, banana leaf, and Thai chili vinegar.  I love the crunchy outside and the taste of the cool, tart vinegar.

Uchiko Dewberry Hills farm chicken

One of my favorite dishes is jar, jar duck: Countryside Farms duck, candied kumquat, endive, and rosemary smoke.  To open the lid is to release the smoke and a wonderful aroma.  I  dive into the jar without abandon.

We have one selection from the yakimono section of the menu, which features dishes that are grilled and skewered.  Think yakitori.  Our dish is pork jowl with brussels sprouts kimchee, preserved lemon creme fraiche, and romaine.  Decadence on a plate.

Uchiko Pork Jowl

There is no shortage of wagyu in this meal, much to the delight of the four meat-eaters, including wagyu shortrib with smoked grape, almond, and chive blossom.  Do the calories count if the food just melts in your mouth?

Uchiko Wagyu Shortrib special

If you are worrying that the pescaterians are going hungry, fear no more.  There is a wonderfully delicate dish called madai from the sushi and sashimi portion of the menu.  This is Japanese bream with shiso, meyer lemon zest, and olive oil.  Sigh…

Uchiko Madai

There is also sake toro:  atlantic salmon belly, ginger, and tamari, which I forgo since I have had more than my fair share of food and am beginning to feel the effects.

 

Uchiko Sake Toro

 

This is followed by avofry: fried komaki roll, soy paper, and lemon miso.

There comes a point where three of us can go no further, and the others want more food.  Marco is at the ready.  I normally spurn the term “food coma,” but I can’t think of a better way to describe my state of being at this point.  I truly don’t know what dishes come next, I only know that I don’t partake in the next couple of rounds of food.

I perk back up for dessert.  We take back the reigns from Marco at this point, as a couple of the options  from pastry chef Philip Speer have considerable appeal.

We opt for two desserts.  The first: sweet corn sorbet with polenta custard, caramel salt, and lemon is unique and luscious.  Even the skeptics, who balk at the sound of corn sorbet, must admit that this is a wonderful dessert.

I am conflicted when the last dish is placed before us.  Can this meal be coming to an end?  We conclude with  fried milk with chocolate milk, toasted milk, and iced milk sherbet.  We aren’t sure what to expect.  The first bites result in simultaneous gasps of awe.  We marvel at the contrasts of textures and flavors, which have been markedly consistent throughout the entire meal.

 

Uchiko Fried Milk

The realization begins to creep in.  We have no idea how much money we have spent. We have had two bottles of moderately priced wine (Glatzer Gruner) and nineteen dishes. We agree that no matter what the cost we have had an amazing, revelatory, mind blowing meal at Uchiko.  Marco appears with the check in hand. “How much do you think ?” he asks.  Is he smiling?  $600, $700, more… we wonder? The bill for six of us (after tax and before tip) is $402.  We are happily stunned, knowing how much more we have spent on meals that are far less fulfilling and certainly nowhere near as entertaining.    Marco, our all-knowing tour guide, has predicted it would end this way.  We express our delight, rather than dismay, at the cost.

Two nights later I am out with a group of friends, including the two women who were with me at Uchiko.  We glance at the menu with wonder. Can we just ask the server to bring us whatever he wishes?  No chance.  I have left my lack of inhibition in Austin, although it resurfaces briefly a few days later when I actually meet Paul Qui at Asia Nine in DC.  He prepares and serves green curry mussels with spiced potato chips, and basil.  I have never eaten mussels and never thought I would.  But there’s something about Paul Qui’s cooking that makes me abandon my self-control and my preconceived notions.  As it turns out, this isn’t a bad thing at all.

Paul Qui and me

Uchiko, 4200 North Lamar, Austin, TX
Uchiko awards:
Chef/Owner Tyson Cole, 2011 James Beard Foundation, Best Chef Southwest
GQ Magazine – Top new restaurant in America 2010
Executive Chef Paul Qui, winner Top Chef season 9

 

Uchiko on Urbanspoon


Filed Under: Around the US, Uchiko Tagged With: , , , , , , , , , ,

A New Season for Seasons 52

April 1, 2012 By Leave a Comment

photo courtesy of Seasons 52

I have a confession.  When Seasons 52 opened in Rockville last year, I wasn’t the biggest fan.  I decided to give it another try based on positive comments from many of my friends.  Plus, the location near my home and office can’t be beat.  I liked it more and more each time.  In fact, I added a comment to my original review stating that I had fallen in love with the duck salad.  (My husband is okay with this).

I was recently invited to Seasons 52 to sample the new spring menu.  I begin as all spring meals in the future should, with a Strawberry Basil Fusion cocktail (Strawberry-Infused Prairie Organic Vodka, fresh Basil, and Organic Agave Nectar).  Very refreshing indeed.

I start with tomato & Haas avocado salad with organic arugula, balsamic glaze and grilled bruschetta.  The glaze gives the tomato lots of flavor and the portion is quite generous.  In fact it’s actually too large for me to finish.

My husband enjoys the soup of the day- roasted corn, which is a creamy soup dotted with pieces of fresh corn.

For my entree, I select swordfish with ponzu sauce, baby bok choy, and snow peas.  This is a difficult choice, as it means I have resisted ordering  grilled lamb chops.  That said, I am always a sucker for Asian flavors, and this dish hits the spot.

My husband selects another feature of the spring menu: Columbia River Steelhead Trout – with spring vegetables, basmati rice, and lemongrass sauce.  This dish has a lovely presentation and there is a subtle tartness to the fresh fish.  The edamame is a nice touch.

I can’t ever resist Seasons 52 desserts. They are just too cute.  The seasonal dessert offering is a Meyer lemon mousse with Meyer lemon pound cake. It’s seriously yummy.

On the way out, I run into people I know at two different tables.  They are eager to report how much they’ve enjoyed their meal.  I nod in agreement. The new spring menu at Seasons 52 is worth a visit.  Hurry, because the seasons are a changing, and the menu at Seasons 52 will be too.

Filed Under: MD Dining, Seasons 52 Tagged With: , , ,
Questions or comments?
Send an email to lorisue6@gmail.com