Jackie's restaurant review|Silver Spring restaurant

JACKIE’S IS CLOSED.

I have lived in Silver Spring, Maryland for more than 35 years. I didn’t realize this until just now when I stopped to add up the number. It is actually disturbing to me on some level, as it’s a lot of years in one place. But it is what it is.

My first abode in the area was a small efficiency apartment off Georgia Avenue in downtown Silver Spring. The only place we ate out was a really mediocre Chinese restaurant a few blocks away from my apartment. It is long gone. I don’t remember the name.

Times have changed. Silver Spring has transformed, and while it isn’t exactly a dining mecca there are some pretty fine choices including Ray’s the Classics, 8407 Kitchen Bar,* Pacci’s Neapolitan Pizza, and KaoThai. And then there is Jackie’s Restaurant.

It is always welcome when a restaurant close to home can provide the same level of satisfaction in terms of cuisine and atmosphere as a restaurant in downtown DC. Jackie’s Restaurant is that kind of place. DC vibe, Georgia Avenue location. That’s what I’m talking about.

I’ve been to Jackie’s on five different occasions, which is as much as I’ve been to any restaurant in the entire DC area. My first visit left me angry about the service and complacent about the food. I liked the food on my second visit, loved it on my third, and was more neutral the fourth time. There has been a different chef almost every time. Last week was my first time experiencing the food of Chef Diana Davila-Boldin, who has been at the restaurant since April 2010. I find Jackie’s under her direction to be really, really good.

I am drawn to Jackie’s, despite my previous ups and downs, because I find the atmosphere tremendously appealing. It is a mash-up between industrial chic and psychedelic funky. The focus on locally-sourced seasonal ingredients is another plus.

www.jackiesrestaurant.com

I visit Jackie’s with my son, who as I have described in previous posts, is a vegetarian foodie. We’re dining before seeing a film at the AFI (American Film Institute).

We begin by sharing sweet corn hushpuppies with collard greens and cayenne infused butter. The hushpuppies arrive piping hot and perfectly crisped on the outside. After we devour the hushpuppies we look for something else to dip in the to-die-for butter. The greens work just fine.

Jackie’s corn hushpuppies

There are times when I want to go no further than an appetizer because I don’t think the meal can get any better than that. Sometimes I am right. Fortunately, not this time.

My entree is Amish chicken with Oaxacan mole, sweet potato tamale, and green beans. I expect a chicken mole to be flavorful and this does not disappoint. There is perhaps a touch too much sauce, but it’s so good it is easy to forgive. The spice is just right- not overpowering and not timid. The chicken is wonderfully moist. I am not a fan of the sweet potato tamale, however. I find it rather dull. Of course, this means I now have something to do with the extra sauce.

Jackie’s chicken mole

My son’s only entree option is the crispy Japanese eggplant, forbidden rice, tofu, bamboo and green curry, which actually needs to be adapted since the green curry is made with shrimp. They prepare the dish with mint pesto instead. It is a beautiful presentation. My son finds the dish satisfying but since he isn’t the biggest eggplant fan he is fairly neutral about it overall.

Jackie’s eggplant

I’m just happy that my latest visit to Jackie’s is one that will bring me back again. It makes for a perfect pairing with the beautiful AFI Silver Theatre and the new Fillmore.

I have come a long way from my days of lo mein and sweet and sour chicken- clearly not in miles but definitely in dining diversity and sophistication. Happily Silver Spring has evolved right along with me.

Jackie’s Restaurant, 8081 Georgia Avenue, Silver Spring, MD
#38 Washingtonian‘s 100 Very Best Restaurants 2011
My rating (on a 1-5 scale): 3.9

Been There/Eaten That review of 8407 Kitchen Bar