For a long time, I didn’t quite comprehend the widespread affinity for red sauce Italian American food. I wasn’t the mom who made lasagna or spaghetti and meatballs, perhaps because the best versions require the mixing of milk and meat, which isn’t allowable in our kosher home. Eggplant parmesan was an option, but my kids weren’t fans. When we dined out as a family, we were much more likely to eat at an Asian restaurant, rather than go out for pizza or Italian food.

While it sounds ridiculous for someone to find eating wildly popular dishes like fettuccini alfredo and chicken parmigiana as going outside one’s comfort zone, it’s pretty much how I feel as my first visit to Caruso’s Grocery approaches.

Carusos’s Grocery is what’s referred to as a red sauce Italian American joint. It opened on Capitol Hill in May 2021 and at Pike and Rose in December 2022. It is the brainchild of chef/partner Matt Adler and restaurateur Michael Babin of Neighborhood Restaurant Group, based on their respective family ties to Italian American restaurants. Upon opening, Adler tells the public not to expect a modern interpretation of classic dishes. Instead, the focus is on execution and high-quality ingredients.

I first met Adler when he was executive chef at Osteria Morini near Yards Park. I was a frequent diner there, returning often for his hand-rolled pasta and creative takes on burrata, and my admiration for his skills run deep. So, despite lacking a personal connection to the Carusos’s Grocery concept, I’m enthused about dining there, as early reviews and word-of-mouth reports are glowing.

Adler says that Caruso’s Grocery success was almost immediate. “In part it was our timing, opening in the middle of the pandemic. And also, the type of food we were serving – comfort food, nostalgic, and super recognizable. We knew pretty quickly that we had something here.”

So, while many diners are initially enticed by the opportunity to recreate food memories, my experience is from a different vantage point.  I can appreciate the red leather banquettes, the black and white photos on the wall, and the heaping plates of pasta being set on neighboring tables. But I ‘m not here for nostalgia.

It’s the consistently satisfying food that wins me over. The food isn’t fussy or artsy, yet there is charisma on the plate. Fried calamari are audibly crisp. Garlic bread announces its arrival with a delightfully pungent scent and a four-cheese dipping sauce on the side. Veal piccata is bright and tart and melts in your mouth.

I’m taken in by perfectly cooked shrimp scampi, tomato braised meatballs, and house made bucatini with spicy red sauce. Roasted garlic Caesar salad is an excellent accompaniment to the hearty appetizers and entrees. While it feels like you can’t possibly eat another bite, it doesn’t seem right if you don’t conclude with classics like tiramisu and cannoli. Save room.

We return to Caruso’s Grocery a couple of times, including Super Bowl Sunday. This visit features  an order of lovely trout piccatta with lemon butter wine sauce and crispy capers. Neapolitan ice cream topped with hot fudge is sublime. And yes, I do recall the slabs of this tricolor dessert being served at birthday parties I attended as a kid. My intention is to write a blog post with the headline “Bowled Over,” but the timing gets away from me.

 

I am thrilled when I learn Caruso’s Grocery is coming to Pike and Rose in N. Bethesda, taking over the back room of Owen’s Ordinary (now Owens Tavern & Garden), which is also owned by NRG Group. While it’s challenging to open a restaurant, perhaps now more than ever, there are numerous factors that make this endeavor less of a risk.

“Even though the bar at Owens does quite well there, the restaurant part itself never really came back from the pandemic,” says Adler.  “The space is already built out. We just needed to make some small aesthetic changes. We have a kitchen that’s already built out, which is the very expensive part. So, we made the decision to move forward in May or June 2022 and were able to get the restaurant open by the beginning of December.”  Adler says reservations for its first week of operation were filled within 36 hours. The customer base continues to grow and patrons of the DC location, who were already coming from Montgomery County, are happy to have a location nearby.

I make a beeline to Pike & Rose during Caruso’s opening weekend. I am delighted by creamy burrata on a bed of pesto and spicy seafood fra diavolo with clams, mussels, calamari, and shrimp over fresh tagliatelle. The dish still leaves its mark on the sweater I wore that night, and I’m not mad about it.

 

There is much about the enjoyment of food that is tied to memory. Caruso’s Grocery’s success begins for the owners and many of the customers with nostalgia. My return to the restaurant is rooted in experiences based on previous visits. And making new memories is just as significant as recreating old ones.

—–

Caruso’s Grocery at Pike and Rose is open for dinner Wednesday through Saturday beginning at 5:00PM and  Sundays beginning at 4:00PM and for lunch Wednesday through Sunday from noon – 2:30 pm.

Pro Tip: Owen’s Tavern and Garden at Pike & Rose shares a kitchen with Caruso’s Grocery. They have a terrific hamburger and I love the lemon pepper chicken wings. You can also order off the menu at Caruso’s Grocery.

Caruso’s Grocery

The Roost, 914 14th Street SE DC

Pike & Rose, 11820 Trade St. N. Bethesda MD