2011 June

Mala Tang, the RAMMY Awards, and Temptation

June 30, 2011 By Lori 3 Comments

I receive an email invite from the new Mala Tang in Arlington. They have come across my blog, like it, and invite me to come for dinner. Mala Tang features Sichuan hot pots. It is already on my radar and I am anxious to try it. So I delicately dip into the murky waters of blogging and free dining. I say yes, and make a vow that it is critical to write an honest review. I bring my husband and sister-in-law along with me. I have no expectations of free dining for all and am not even sure what I am going to receive, but at this point it’s inconsequential. I have succumbed to temptation.

We arrive at Mala Tang and I want to make sure they know about my invite at the start. There is some confusion from the hostess and then Tomer, the manager, arrives. I show him the invite on my phone, and begin to fish in my wallet for my card. He spots another card from someone I met who works at the Israeli embassy and asks (in Hebrew) if I speak Hebrew I don’t understand at first. I am in a Sichuan restaurant, so I am not expecting a Hebrew-speaking manager. Tomer, who turns out to be the managing partner, has someone lead us to a table outside (per our request), and I don’t see him again. At least not on this night.

Mala Tang’s hot pot concept isn’t entirely foreign to us but we request an explanation. We each select a broth (there is a vegetarian option) spicy or mild, a protein, and vegetables. There is a prix fixe meal for $25 or a la carte options. We opt for a la carte because there are small plates we want to order which aren’t available with the prix fixe dinner.

My husband likes the menu format, which is filled with color photos and arrives in a binder, which we learn later is authentically Chinese. The protein page describes farm-to-table beef. As I noted in a previous post recently, I am more surprised these days when food is not farm to table, although I certainly don’t expect it here. It’s nice to see.

We begin with spicy cold noodles and cucumber salad. The cold noodles are sprinkled with Sichuan peppercorns, sprouts, red chili oil, and soy sauce. There is a complexity to the flavor and just the right amount of “tang.”

My sister-in-law finds the cucumbers a tad too salty, but my husband and I like them just fine.

For our hot pots, I order shrimp, my sister-in-law wine marinated beef, and my husband tofu. We order lotus root, bok choy, and green bean leaves to share as our vegetables. To accompany the hot pot dishes there is bean paste, barbeque sauce, hot chilies, and homemade soy sauce which you mix together according to your own taste. We all like it hot.

A server comes with the food but it isn’t ours. Oops wrong table. Our order is served just a bit later but my husband notices that his tofu is soft and not the firm tofu that he ordered. Another oops. Neither mistake is a big deal, but clearly I am not getting the royal treatment as a known blogger. This is actually a good thing because I can’t be accused of having an inauthentic experience.

The vegetables are fresh and beautiful. I’m glad we’ve gone with more eclectic choices.

bok choy

green bean leaves

The farm-to-table beef really is special. It’s tender and has a nice flavor, even without the sauce.

red wine marinated beef – before it hits the hot pot

I enjoy the fresh ingredients and the experience of preparing my food to suit my own taste. My only negative and it’s not a big one, is that the service is a bit scattered. We have a few different servers and some mixed messages. I am a little surprised that Tomer doesn’t make his way back to us to check in. We do receive a discount which covers my meal and a bit more.

We think this concept would do quite well in the Rockville area, and while it isn’t a restaurant that is necessarily destination-worthy, it is a great option for Northern Virginians or anyone who finds themselves in the area. (However, there is an Open Table discount offer available now for Mala Tang, and that changes everything!)

Flash forward to the next night. It’s the RAMMY Awards. The RAMMY awards are presented by the Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington. I have won free tickets to the event from Washington City Paper as a result of a contest I entered with a blog post about Volt. We are happy to have friends who are going as well.

It is a lovely event, which includes a reception, the awards ceremony, and then the gala itself with plentiful stations of food and alcohol. We consume a respectable amount of food and a small amount of alcohol and decide it’s time to leave because in truth we only know a handful of people in a room with close to 1,500 attendees. And although I would probably recognize the names of many in the room, there’s really no way to know who is who. So while I enjoy the evening and know that I would have been sorry had I missed it, after a few hours it’s time to go.

We’re making our way out the door when we run smack into Tomer from Mala Tang. We get to talking about Israel as I relay to my friend how he spoke to us in Hebrew the previous night. Tomer happens to mention that when he was in high school and living in this area (he is now in his thirties), he went to Israel on a special study program. My friend now works for that very program. What are the chances! It truly is a small world.

Am I tempted to up my score for Mala Tang as a result of the RAMMY run-in? Maybe just a little bit. But rest assured my review is authentic, as is the Sichuan hot pot experience at Mala Tang. Try it. And if you do, tell Tomer I said “Shalom.”

Mala Tang, 3434 Washington Blvd. Arlington, VA
My rating (on a 1-5 scale): 3.8
Washingtonian review

Filed Under: Mala Tang, RAMMYs, VA Dining, Va.

Looking for Love at Grapeseed

June 26, 2011 By Lori 2 Comments

Ah, Bethesda. I wish I loved you more. You are geographically desirable. You are attractive. You are fairly well built. But try as I do, I just can’t seem to fall in love.

My latest attempt is at Grapeseed American Bistro. It’s one of Washingtonian’s 100 Best Restaurants, so hopes are high. Everything seems right at first. A warm greeting at the door. A cool vibe inside. We’re hitting it off well enough at the start. I like that I can order a taste of wine and then move on to something different to accompany my meal. I don’t think that qualifies as being fickle, it’s encouraged here.

The bread is fine- nothing special- but the accompanying dip with tomatoes, oil, and garlic is quite nice. My husband and I share a first course of grilled portobello mushroom salad with arugula, Idiazabal cheese, caramelized onion and port vinaigrette. It needs pepper, and higher quality olive oil and vinegar would help its personality. As is, its a snooze. Points however for the fact that the portions are served already split in two and when I remark that they are nicely sized, the server tells us that they’ve been enhanced so we wouldn’t be handed a paltry portion. Classy.

My entree is pan roasted duck breast, with baby artichoke salad, and sweet potatoes. It’s a pretty plate but the flavor is just okay. Good looks aren’t everything. The duck is a bit undercooked and rubbery. The accompanying salad is too similar to the one I had for my first course. I wish the server had pointed this out. I’m looking down at my plate and wishing I was somewhere else.

My husband’s pan seared Hirame fish with Israeli couscous, asparagus, and almond-honey vinaigrette is cooked just perfectly but it’s fairly dull. It begs for some extra sauce. Here’s another pretty dish that lacks that extra oomph.

We’re not quite ready to call it a night. We’re willing to give Grapeseed one more chance. We order a sorbet trio of pear, plum and red current sorbets. The flavors and textures are good. Is it enough to make our hearts go pitter patter? No.

On the plus side, we have a Living Social coupon for $60, so while it’s not a cheap date, it’s not an over the top dinner. Of course, we would have been less content without the discount.

The meal at Grapeseed wasn’t bad. It just didn’t knock our socks off and wasn’t memorable enough to warrant another visit anytime soon. However, there’s a younger and more casual sibling next door – Freddy’s Lobsters and Clams. I’ll have to leave my Kosher husband home for this one, but maybe I can make a love connection in Bethesda with a lobster roll. Stay tuned.

Grapeseed American Bistro, 4865 Cordell Avenue, Bethesda
My rating (on a 1-5 scale): 3.4
Zagat rating: 21
Washingtonian, 100 Best Restaurants 2011
Washingtonian review

Filed Under: Bethesda dining, Grapeseed American Bistro, MD Dining

Win, Win – Dinner at Birch & Barley and more

June 22, 2011 By Lori 1 Comment

www.dailycandy.com

I had my birthday dinner at Blue Duck Tavern, but dinner on my birthday was actually at Birch & Barley. And dinner at Birch & Barley was actually brunch. Stay with me here.

According to their website, the concept of Birch & Barley is “to deliver deceptively simple, market driven dishes that draw flavor inspiration from the beers of Birch & Barley.” I do not drink beer. But this does not stop me from enjoying the flavors they inspire at Birch & Barley.

On Sundays B&B (hope it’s okay to abbreviate) serves its brunch menu into the evening. This is mostly a good thing. I have buffalo chicken flatbread with hot sauce and blue cheese. The crust is crisp, just as I like it, and the hot sauce adds a nice punch. It’s a portion big enough to share. I don’t, which means I have several pieces leftover for lunch the next day. I enjoy my flatbread with winter fruit sangria which includes pomegranate, blood orange, and apple. (I’m guessing this drink will convert to summer ingredients any day now.) I’m fine with the winter fruit. This is a delicious drink.

The only thing I miss are the wonderful breads I remember from a previous dinner at Birch & Barley, particularly pretzel rolls. As compensation, I have the opportunity to try the fresh donuts, which include a toffee bacon donut. At first, I am relieved that no one in my party of six is clamoring for this-either because they don’t eat bacon or the thought of this combination is not appealing. I on the other hand have been dying to try it since reading about it online. Twice in the past year my sister has called me from Voodoo Donuts in Portland, Oregon to taunt me while she enjoys their famous bacon maple donut. (She may not have been actually taunting me, but it feels that way). In fact last night she called from her vacation to tell me she was having a butterfinger donut in addition to the bacon maple. Damn her. I really need a trip to Portland! Sorry, I digress. The bottom line is that I don’t love the version at B&B, mostly because ours wasn’t served hot or even warm. It would have made all the difference. I leave several bites on the plate untouched.

www.washingtoncitypaper.com

Donut aside, I enjoy my non-birthday birthday dinner/brunch at Birch & Barley, and look forward to another trip back for dinner… and those wonderful pretzel rolls.

Birch & Barley, 1337 14th Street NW
My rating (on a 1-5 scale): 3.5
Zagat rating: 22

Now on to me and winning. I entered a recent blog post into a contest sponsored by Washington City Paper. Below is the email from the Young & Hungry newsletter announcing my win.

First off, massive props to everyone who took the time to jot down and send in some thoughts on their best dining experiences this year as part of our ticket giveaway contest to the 2011 Rammys.

I received a slew of submissions over the past two weeks. And, it was a pretty tough call, having to pick only two winners out of such a large crop of thoughtful and capable restaurant writers. I think it speaks to a certain level of sophistication, both of the D.C.-area dining scene and the D.C.-area diner himself.

A number of fine local restaurants earned high marks from you folks. So let’s take a moment to mention some of them: Founding Farmers, Luke’s Lobster, Minibar, Palena, Ray’s Hell Burger, Restaurant Eve—heck, even Baltimore’s Liquid Earth got a nod.

But let’s not belabor the point. Get to the frickin’ winners, Shott!

Congratulations go to Tom McClive and Lori Gardner, both of Silver Spring, it turns out. Tom’s review of Toki Underground nicely detailed both the food and decor of the trendy H Street NE ramen shop. His overall take on the place proved ultimately positive but sustained a degree of skepticism throughout, which I liked. Lori’s write-up of Table 21 at Volt was a bit more gushing. Literally. Her husband got sprayed in the face with liquid nitrogen during their dinner. Yet, somehow they still went home happy. That says a lot about the quality of the food. Lori’s write-up was breezy and also a bit funny. Additionally, she was the only contestant to include photos of her meal. Now, that wasn’t a requirement of the contest. But, as a sucker for food porn in all its forms, I had a hard time not giving her added marks for the extra effort. I plan to reprint Tom and Lori’s reviews on the blog this week. So stay tuned.

Both Tom and Lori will receive two tickets to the big foodie soiree this coming Sunday night, June 26, at the Marriott Wardman Park Hotel in Northwest D.C. Don’t forget your masks, folks. The party this year has a masquerade theme. Also, you might want to maintain your anonymity just in case chefs Erik Bruner-Yang and Bryan Voltaggio took exception to your critiques. Oh, the life of a critic.

My winning blogpost can be found here: http://beenthereeatenthat.net/2011//05/breaking-news-and-dinner-at-volts-table/

Now that’s what I call winning, Charlie Sheen! Of course I will blog with all the details next week.

Filed Under: Birch and Barley, DC dining

Happy Birthday to Me at Blue Duck Tavern

June 18, 2011 By Lori Leave a Comment

My birthday! This certainly presents an opportunity to dine at one of those top DC restaurants that can be difficult to justify in terms of the expense. The only question is which one? Komi? Inn at Little Washington? Cityzen?

In the end, sensibility prevails. I can not justify the expense when we’ve been doing so much high end dining lately. I also am thinking I don’t want an elaborate multi-course meal. So where do we end up? Don’t start feeling sorry for me. It wasn’t such a sacrifice. We (and by that I mean I) decide to go to Blue Duck Tavern. This is one of those restaurants that has been on my list forever, but for one reason or another plans change and I’ve never made it. It’s time.

Blue Duck is by no means considered casual dining. In fact, it is right up there in the special occasion restaurant category. But I justify this decision to be somewhat economical in terms of food and calories with a plan to share an appetizer with my husband (which we don’t always do), as well as share a dessert (which we almost always do.) I have my heart set on scallops, which is listed on Washingtonian‘s The Year’s Top 40 dishes. (note: I don’t realize until later that the preparation is different from the Top 40 dish, but no matter).

Blue Duck Tavern’s thing is farm-to-table. It’s getting to the point where if I am at a restaurant that is not farm-to-table I am more apt to notice than if it is. I am not at all putting down fresh ingredients. I’m just saying we have now come to expect it.

I must start by saying I am not a fan of the bread at Blue Duck Tavern. I like a crusty crust and this one is too chewy. This is fine because too often my meals are spoiled by my indulgence in crusty bread. Moving on.

As planned, my husband and I share a starter, roasted beet salad with endive, apple, walnuts, and Humbolt Fog goat cheese. I am trying to save myself for the scallops so I don’t eat too much. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, a dish with fresh roasted beets and a high quality goat cheese is the perfect way to start a meal. This version is as good as any I’ve had.

beet salad

For my entree I order oven roasted Maine scallops with lemon and thyme. I am pleasantly surprised to see the price is $23. This seems quite reasonable. My husband orders a branzino whole fish special, also oven roasted. The dilemma comes in choosing the sides. I am thinking pick one, pick one. I can’t pick just one. There are too many appealing choices. We order creamy polenta with blue cheese and purple top turnips with raisin moutarda. What the heck. It’s my birthday dinner.

The entrees here are delivered in a dish for sharing rather than plated. My husband doesn’t eat scallops and this ends up being a good thing. I do not want to share one bite of these big, beautiful, delicate, tangy, herbaceous, delightful scallops. Actually I have one or two bites left of this generous portion so I could have shared if necessary. This is definitely one of my favorite dishes of the year.

scallops

My husband’s whole fish doesn’t appeal to me too much (those eyes!) He finds it simple yet full of flavor. Like my scallops it is basically prepared with lemon and herbs. He filets it himself to the amazement of our server.

branzino

The polenta with blue cheese is unbelievable! Blue cheese can be overpowering. This dish has just the right balance as to impart the flavor without being sickeningly rich. I’m going to add this to one of my favorite dishes of the year list as well.

The turnips provide a nice contrast to the polenta. It’s a little sweet as well as sour, although a few bites are bitter. But that’s turnips for you.

polenta and turnips

It’s time for the shared dessert. Our server is pushing the apple pie. It’s a signature dish here. I don’t argue. He asks if we want ice cream with that- home made honey vanilla will be perfect. Does this count as two desserts if it’s eaten in conjunction with the pie? I don’t think so.

I have no willpower. We get the apple pie (which is enough for at least 3 people) and the ice cream. The apple pie is very good but not so remarkable. I love the ice cream. I’m so glad I have no willpower. Anyway, it’s my birthday dinner.

apple pie and ice cream

Up until this point we have not had much interaction with our server. He is pleasant and makes useful suggestions but he isn’t making much of an impression. When he asks if we have any questions about the desserts, my husband trying to be funny says “How many calories are in the apple pie?” He responds. (I think it is over 1,000 but I block it out.). This leads to a conversation where we discover our server is a best-selling cookbook author of “Food for Fitness” and a stand up comedian. He is working on a book called “Midnight Munchies.” Check him out: www.gregisfunny.com. Apparently he was on “Last Comic Standing.” (I wish I would have known that while we were there, given how easily impressed I am by this sort of thing.) We give him my blog card, so if you’re reading this Greg… HI!

My plans to scale back at Blue Duck Tavern didn’t really come to fruition. I overate and spent more money than originally intended. But if you can’t indulge yourself with great food on your birthday, served by a best selling author and comedian, then really what’s the point of a birthday celebration???

Blue Duck Tavern,1201 24th St., NW
My rating (on a 1-5 scale): 4.6
Zagat rating: 26
Washingtonian, 100 Best Restaurants 2011

http://www.washingtonian.com/restaurantreviews/2833.html

Filed Under: Blue Duck Tavern, DC dining

A Rare Treat at Medium Rare

June 12, 2011 By Lori 1 Comment

www.eater.com

I am about to write my review of Medium Rare in Cleveland Park when I see that this week’s Washington Post Magazine features none other than…Medium Rare. Scooped by Tom Sietsema! I’ll keep this one short. Check out his review for a professional opinion.

I try to keep my red meat intake to once a week. I am usually successful, although if I have leftovers and eat them the next day I don’t think it counts. I may be wrong about this but that’s how I do it.
I find two meat-eating friends (and fans of Cedric Maupillier, formerly of Central Michel Richard) to accompany me. Cedric is a temporary fixture at Medium Rare, or he was. When we arrive we find he is no longer working there.

A good thing about Medium Rare? You don’t have to ponder over the menu. You get bread, salad, steak, and french fries. All for $19.95. The only decision you need to make is whether to have wine or dessert.
My friend has a hard time with this one- first deciding no to wine and then changing her mind. It’s a good decision, as steak is made to be enjoyed with a glass of red wine, in my opinion.

The crusty bread is perfect and you can’t help but ask for seconds. (Well, we couldn’t.) The salad is unremarkable: butter lettuce, cherry tomatoes, and dressing. It’s fresh but I think would benefit from a few more ingredients.

Next comes the steak and fries. I am well aware that the steak is 1/2 a serving and the rest will be delivered later. Our server tells us that we are welcome to take the second serving home. I find the steak tender and flavorful. There’s a secret sauce which I think features mushrooms. Tom thinks chicken liver and mustard. One of my friends doesn’t like it. Two of us do. The fries are crisp and salty, just the way I like them.

We opt out of dessert, being warned that the portions are large. (Yes, I’m a little disappointed but there’s frozen yogurt across the street.)

I understand that there is a vegetarian option – grilled portobello mushroom. In my opinion, if you don’t eat meat, skip Medium Rare. There are far better options elsewhere. If you do enjoy a steak once in awhile, Medium Rare is worth a visit. It’s a quick dinner, as noted by Tom Sietsema, there are no delays in a kitchen that’s only cooking one thing.

As others have warned in reviews and blogs, the tab adds up if you are drinking wine and order dessert. My dinner was $40. But I got to add steak to my salad lunch the following day. And no, I didn’t count it as eating red meat twice in one week.

Medium Rare, 3500 Connecticut Avenue, NW (Cleveland Park)
My rating (on a 1-5 scale): 3.5

Washington Post Magazine review
DCdining.com review

Filed Under: DC dining, Medium Rare

A Night at the Museum: The Gulf and Its Seafood- One Year Later

June 11, 2011 By Lori 2 Comments

I was honored to be invited to attend- as press- an event entitled “The Gulf and Its Seafood- One Year Later.” The wine and dine reception at the Smithsonian’s National Museum of Natural History was preceded by a panel discussion featuring experts from academia, industry, government…and Ted Danson.

Let’s face it, I was thrilled to be invited to this event. In addition to Ted Danson (who I am so enjoying on HBO’s “Bored to Death”) the invitation caught my eye with participating chefs including Top Chef’testants Carla Hall and Mike Isabella as well as other notable DC chefs including Scott Drewno, Ris Lacoste, Jeff Black, Jamie Leeds, Jeff Buben, etc. etc. They had me at Carla Hall and Mike Isabella.

It was a bit surreal to walk into the event and announce myself as press. I was considered press early in my career, but it’s been years. We arrived just in time for the panel discussion. May I say that Ted Danson is quite a striking man. I was fairly focused on looking only at him, until I realized that I was actually paying attention to what these people were saying.

The panel talked about the state of seafood in the Gulf, one year after the BP oil spill. Ted Danson by the way was not just there because he is funny (and did I mention good looking). He is an environmentalist and founding member of Oceana and has just co-authored a book entitled “Oceana: Our Endangered Oceans and What We Can Do to Save Them .”

I won’t go on and on about the non-food part of the evening but here is the major message: it is safe to eat seafood from the Gulf. This is a positive message, which is difficult to impart to the public after all the horrific images we saw in the media following the spill. The long-term effects of the oil spill are still unknown, however.

I am glad to hear that seafood from the Gulf is safe to eat because my husband and I both consumed a ton of it at this event. Although not all the seafood served was from the gulf, each station included information about the fish and its sustainability, which was very informative.

We initially made a beeline for Carla’s station. Her bluefish poached in carrot-ginger broth was the highlight of the evening. So flavorful. She is such a delightful person and genuinely seemed to recall me from the night she had to push my car out of the parking lot following her cooking class. (see my blog post on this).

Carla Hall


Carla Hall’s bluefish poached in carrot-ginger broth

Other favorites were: smoked sturgeon with lemon blini and yuzu cream from Scott Drewno (The Source by Wolfgang Puck), wild Texas shrimp from Randy Evans (Haven, Houston), barramundi with warm potato salad from Ris Lacoste (Ris), blue crab and camembert bisque from Chris Lusk (Cafe Adelaide, New Orleans) and blueberries and cream with corn brittle ice cream and toasted cornbread from Mallory Staley (1789 Restaurant). Unfortunately, we ate these dishes before we remembered to take photos. But here are a couple of photos we did remember to take:


actually don’t remember what this is

rockfish escabeche by Jeff Buben of Bistro Bis and Vidalia

I was surprised to see Sam Talbot from “Top Chef” Season Two, who is the chef at the recently opened Imperial No. 9 in New York. I had just that morning read an article on Grub Street that mentioned him in relation to a “Top Chef” backlash in NYC (i.e. bad reviews. chefs leaving, etc). I wasn’t going to mention the article to him (it was somewhat negative) and to be frank, my memory of him on “Top Chef” at this point is fairly vague. So I said nothing when he served me his dish. But I did get to taste food from another Cheftestant, so I was satisfied.

Sam Talbot

I was determined to say hello to Mike Isabella, particularly since he recently posted my blog about Spiaggia on his Facebook page. He is such a charming guy. We had a few minutes to chat about the gnocci at Spiaggia vs. Spiaggia Cafe (really great vs. good) and he offered to accompany me there on my next visit to ensure that I got the great gnocci. (he really did). Check out this video on www.metrocurean.com where Mike explains his vision for his soon-to-be opened Graffiato.

spiced rainbow trout escabeche by Mike Isabella

This was a top notch event. The public may have been lured in with great food, but hopefully attendees got to enjoy sustainable seafood and learn some important lessons. I know I did.

Filed Under: Carla Hall, Mike Isabella, Ted Danson, The Gulf and Its Seafood One Year Later, Top Chef

Charleston: Highlights from Lowcountry Dining

June 9, 2011 By Lori 2 Comments

Dining out is so much more than eating to me. It is the culmination of careful research and planning. It is also almost always a learning experience. I recently traveled to Charleston, S.C. with my husband and three other couples. I have never been to Charleston. It is a delightful destination which I highly recommend.

The options for dining in Charleston are plentiful. I begin my research as I usually do. I check the boards on www.chowhound.com. I ask friends for recommendations. I do a google search. I make reservations for two dinners (Fig and S.N.O.B), one lunch (Husk), and one brunch (Magnolias). I leave one lunch slot open for happenstance (we end up at Mellow Mushroom Pizza).

Here are some of the lessons learned.
1. Lowcountry food does not equal low calorie food. Who cares? Shrimp and grits from Husk are delicious. The lamb barbecue sandwich…sublime.


shrimp and grits at Husk

lamb barbecue sandwich with grits at Husk

2. Grits are not all created equal. Some have cheese, some have green onions, some are creamy, some not. I prefer my grits with cheese.

wahoo with cheddar grits at Husk

3. A vegetable plate can be exceptionally good. I enjoyed the pan seared scallops with goat cheese and squash casserole green beans at S.N.O.B. (Slightly North of Broad). My friends all enjoyed their dishes as well. But my husband was absolutely ecstatic about the vegetable plate.

scallops at S.N.O.B.

vegetable plate at S.N.O.B.

4. It is possible for people to dine at the same restaurant, at the same time, have the same server, and order the same dish, and have entirely different experiences. This one really is a revelation.
Our party of eight is divided into two tables seated next to each other at Fig. At one table, three of us order grilled triggerfish with golden beets, sauteed greens, pickled ramps, raisins, and pinenuts. Two people at the other table order this dish as well. At our table we all agree that the flavor is excellent but the fish is tepid and seems a touch overcooked. At the other table, my friends describe the same dish as “superb” and “flawless.”

triggerfish at Fig

(Side note: I tasted chicken and steak dishes also, and they were both outstanding.)

I admire our server for the way he describes each and every dish in an almost loving way that makes it sound absolutely fantastic (even though this results in an ordering dilemma for me.) The timing of the food delivery is lacking, and he does becomes a bit awkward as the evening progresses and the time we have told him we must depart nears. My friends at the other table, however, find him absolutely incompetent to the point of being compelled to write a scathing report on the comment card.

5. Pea soup can be outrageously good. Who knew? The pea soup at Fig, served chilled, is stunningly beautiful (yes, the color is accurate) and fresh.

pea soup at Fig

6. Farm to table is not just a concept. It seems to be a way of life in Charleston. Sustainable. Ingredient-driven cuisine. Local. You can’t go to Charleston and escape fresh food. Well maybe you can, but you shouldn’t. Husk in particular is so completely wedded to this concept that even the rice is local. “If it doesn’t come from the South, it’s not coming through the door, says Executive Chef Sean Brock. A chalk board in the entry way lists ingredients and the farm where it comes from.


this is not from our visit – found it through Google

7. Sharing one dessert with four people (or two desserts for eight) is not a good idea when I am in vacation mode. It makes me grumpy. I get it. Many people just want a small bite of dessert to satisfy their craving for something sweet. I am not one of those people. I don’t need an entire dessert to myself, but I want more than two bites. The pana cotta at Fig is an example of something that’s worth a few extra calories.

panna cotta at Fig

8. Sometimes the place you are concerned about being a tourist trap attracts tourists for a good reason. I had a reservation at Magnolias for Sunday brunch, based on a recommendation. But then one of those people on the street who want to sell you a condo or something offers us a free dinner there and suddenly I wonder what kind of place this is. I cancel the reservation. Then for a variety of reasons, we end up there anyway. Surprise. My favorite dish of the weekend is the parmesan crusted flounder over Carolina rice and shrimp pirloo with sweet corn tomato and asparagus salad, lump crab, and a lemon beurre blanc. Sounds like a mouthful, I know. I wish I could have finished every bite.

parmesan crusted flounder at Magnolia’s

Note: my friends at the other end of the table were not so enamored with the buffalo fried chicken cobb salad or the eggs florentine. See Lesson Learned #4 above. However, we devour the excellent apple fritter poppers and housemade potato chips with crumbled blue cheese and scallions. (no photos as they were scarfed up before we could take any).

9. My numeric ratings of restaurants are sometimes meaningless and I am considering eliminating them from my blog. Every time I dine out I ask my companions to rate their meal on a scale of one to five. On this trip I had some wildly varying scores. In terms of my Charleston visit, I thought that every restaurant fell somewhere between a 4.0 and a 4.5 on my scale but I just can’t settle on the numbers. So I’m not rating them with a number. They were all good and some dishes were better than others

The coolest lesson that I learned on my trip to Charleston? My Droid phone has a feature that allows me to talk into a microphone for a text, email, or even a document. Thus I am writing my blog and walking my dog at the same time. How great is that?!

Husk, 78 Queen Street, Charleston
S.N.O.B (Slightly North of Broad), 192 East Bay Street, Charleston
Fig, 232 Meeting Street, Charleston
Magnolias, 185 East Bay Street, Charleston

Filed Under: Around the US, Charleston, Fig, Husk, Magnolias, S.N.O.B., South Carolina

Checking out Fiola

June 2, 2011 By Lori Leave a Comment

I am one of those people who lives by a to do list. In fact, I have a few to do lists: things to do in the house, my work to do’s, and of course there is my husband’s to do list, which I am kind enough to manage. I take great satisfaction when I can cross something off of any one of my lists.

The proliferation of new restaurants in DC is making it difficult for me to make significant progress on my restaurant to do list, which focuses on my desire to conquer a majority of Washingtonian’s 100 Very Best Restaurants before year end. But I am hoping that some of the new restaurants will be on the 2012 list and then I will be ahead of the game. I am betting that Fiola will make the cut.

Chef Fabio Trabocchi is a James Beard award-winner (best chef Mid-Atlantic 2006) who was at Maestro in Tysons Corner (which is now home to Michel at the Ritz Carlton.) There was much excitement in the DC blogosphere when it was announced Fabio was returning from Fiamma in NYC to the DC area to open Fiola. I must proclaim my ignorance here as I never made it to the now-closed Maestro. But I am a sucker for a James Beard award-winning chef, so I was definitely excited to try Fiola.

My sister-in-law and brother-in-law come in from Baltimore to join us on our journey. We are immediately taken by the beauty of the place. It is elegant and sophisticated but at the same time modern. At 6:30 the restaurant is just beginning to fill to capacity. Happily, the design is such that the noise is absorbed and it never feels too loud, at least in the room we are in, which is on the side of the restaurant.

side room before the crowds arrive

The sommelier comes by almost immediately and asks if we need help selecting a wine. We all state our various preferences which range from Pinot Noir to Cabernet Sauvignon. He suggests a Frieisa D’Asti, which ends up being a perfect compromise. At $43 a bottle, we are quite pleased.

My sister-in-law begins asking the sommelier questions about the menu, thinking he is our server. He does not hesitate to respond. When asked, he tells us that the crostini with spicy ahi tuna comes with three crostinis to an order. (more on that later). Our real server brings bread, which looks like a cross between a croissant and a brioche. It is buttery and salty and crunchy and wonderful. There is olive oil and salt for dipping but it seems like overkill. This is best eaten as is.

www.pqinsider.com

For starters we have the ahi tuna, and burrata of buffalo mozzarella, roasted tomato, and pesto. A friend has recommended this to me as one of the best appetizers ever. The burrata is excellent but it’s only been a week since I enjoyed the burrata at Obelisk, and I have to say in the burrata challenge Obelisk wins.

When the tuna crostini arrives there are only two on the plate. We remark to the runner that we have been told there would be three pieces.. He apologizes and tells us he will bring another piece. He comes back with another full order, compliments of the chef. This is very much appreciated although we all agree that the spicy tuna is not particularly spicy. We would have liked this dish kicked up a notch.

We order two salads, which is more food than we usually order but I don’t protest. I manage to eat my half of the La Misticanza which is Davon Crest lettuces, herbs, Chianti-pickled red onions, and sheep’s ricotta crostino. The cheese is a standout. The salad makes for a light and refreshing transition to the main course. Unfortunately, I realize that I am becoming far too accustomed to eating multiple courses of food these days, and this is ultimately not a good thing.

My sister-in-law and I both have lobster ravioli, which we are told is a popular dish here, as it was at the former Maestro. The lobster is plentiful and the noodles are surrounded by a beautiful foam. I don’t know why but foam always makes me smile. My sister-in-law thinks the lobster is too fishy-tasting. I disagree. I thoroughly enjoy the delicate flavors.

this looks mushier than it was when served

My husband orders black bass with smoked potato. When the dish arrives there is a sauce that the server begins to pour on to the fish. My husband inquires about the sauce and is told it is made from shellfish stock. This is a no no for my Kosher-keeping husband. The server apologizes and brings a new order of fish, without the sauce. The fish is well-prepared but it is an incomplete dish. It could use some sauce.

My brother-in-law has Il Brasato, which is slow cooked kobe short ribs. I would definitely return to Fiola for this dish. They are tender, rich, and for lack of a better term, yummy.

We are totally stuffed but there’s always room for gelato. We have nutella and vanilla gelato as well as lemon verbena with passion fruit seeds. I prefer the refreshing lemon verbena gelato, but then again I am not a nutella fan. We are also each served a complimentary plate of small cookies.

Fiola just opened in April which is hard to believe. Despite a few snafus, we all agree that we’ve had attentive service and while not perfect, an excellent meal.

When Washingtonian’s Top 100 Restaurants is published in 2012, I hope I can check Fiola off as having
“Been There, Eaten That.” There is nothing so satisfying as checking something off your list before it’s ever on it.

Fiola, 601 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW Washington, DC
My rating (on a 1-5 scale): 4.3